TRAVEL LOG

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Our trek into the Grand Canyon began in Flagstaff.  The outfitter for the trip was OARS/Grand Canyon Dories.  We arrived on June 4 and that evening attended a meeting hosted by our group leader, “Rondo” (one of the dory boatmen).  At that meeting, the 16 guests (including us) were each given a waterproof duffel bag to use to hold clothing & personal items for the 13-day adventure.  Everyone also had another waterproof duffel for holding a tent, sleeping bag and ground cloth.  After the meeting, we scattered to do our respective packing and then met early the next morning to begin the trip.

Day 1 (June 5) – Mile 0-19:  In the early morning hours, our group was transferred by van to Lee’s Ferry, our put-in point.  Here our duffels were loaded onto one of two supply rafts that would accompany the four dories on the trek.  Then, in groups of 4, we boarded the dories – two in a front seat and two in a back seat  – while the center was occupied by the boatman.  Our initial day was fairly leisurely as the Colorado River was wide and the water relatively calm.  However, within 5 miles, the Canyon walls had risen some 800 feet.  So later on this day we did experience our first rapids, “House Rock Rapids,” in the dory.  While we’ve been rafting before, it’s always been in an inflatable raft which gives with the rise & fall of the water.  This was a totally different feeling as the dory rides more on top of the water.  It’s amazing to go up the crests of a wave and then plummet back into the main body of the river.  We quickly learned that we would definitely be clinging to the boat when going through any rapid (and House Rock was a gentle one)!  We also discovered that the Colorado River is cold – some 48 or 49 degrees where we put in rising to about 56 degrees where we took out  – and it feels like it even with the 100-105 degree heat in the Canyon.  Our first night on the River was spent at Mile 19.  There “Chef Eduardo” assisted the boatmen with dinner preparations (and the salmon was outstanding!) and the group went to their individual beds under the stars once it was dark.

Day 2 (June 6) – Mile 19-31:  Our morning began at 6:00AM with the call of a conch shell signaling coffee was ready.  After breakast, we packed up our gear as the boatmen and assistants packed away cooking tables, lawn chairs and a variety of other items used to make our camp the previous night.  We learned that the last item to be packed each day would be our portable privy.  Park rules require that all waste be removed from the Canyon, including human waste.  So, our toilet was an old army ammunition can (large one) to which a toilet seat could be attached.  Kind of bizarre but very functional.   It was always situated in a discreet place with a great view.  However, in 105 degree heat you quickly learn to go about your business quickly!

Anyway, after breaking camp, we did a quick hike down a lovely side canyon.  Really beautiful!  We then boarded a different dory with new companions (to mix things up) and began our day with the 20 Mile Rapids.  Very invigorating especially in the morning hours.  In the afternoon we hiked up to some Indian ruins and then into North Canyon which ended with a pool of water reflecting the canyon walls.  It was a great photo opportunity.  We then continued until making camp at Mile 31 for the evening.

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Day 3 (June 7) – Mile 31-50:  We were now experienced dory riders and canyon enthusiasts.  We knew that the day would begin with coffee & breakfast followed by time to break camp.  Then, a dory ride through calm water, rapids or a combination of both.  In the dories, we had learned how to use our weight to help traverse the rapids.  A few of the guests (including Ed) relearned boating skills by relieving the boatman and taking over the oars.  Of course, this was done in calm waters only.  The highlight for us today came during what was supposed to be a small rapid.  Ed wanted to film the experience and was successful in doing so.  However, at the end of this small rapid, a 6’ wave hit Ed and the camera directly head-on.  Luckily, Ed remained in the boat and the camera continued to work (albeit with a viewfinder that made everything look like it was done in x-ray vision in an old black & white flick).  Hey, a great experience captured on video!!  This evening we camped at Mile 50.

Day 4 (June 8) – Mile 51-65:  Today we did only limited traveling on the Colorado River.  Instead, we spent a great deal of time on the Little Colorado River.  It’s an incredibly light-colored blue river due to intense mineralization.  We spent time swimming as the water was much warmer than that of the main river.  At the end of the day, we floated to Mile 65 and made camp enjoying feeling clean and refreshed from the Little Colorado.

Day 5 (June 9) – Mile 65-73:  Again, today was limited traveling.  The group spent time hiking Carbon Creek.  There we stopped at a cabin and again found many Indian ruins.  Camp was made at Mile 73. 

Day 6 (June 10) – Mile 73-91:  The Colorado River was filled with lots of small rapids today.  We enjoyed the ride and didn’t even cling onto the boat too much as everyone was now accustomed to the feel.  Near mid-day, we stopped at Phantom Ranch.  Here 6 of our group would leave to hike out the Grand Canyon via Bright Angel Trail while another 6 individuals would finish the trip with us.  While the logistics of this was going on, we had time to enjoy a fresh lemonade with ice.  Ice ordinarily isn't available in camp so this was a real treat!!  We camped this night at Mile 91.

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Day 7 (June 11) – Mile 91-118:  We were now deep in the Grand Canyon and the walls were increasingly closer together.  On this day, we had to navigate three incredible rapids:  Crystal, Hermit & Granite.  For safety reasons, at Crystal a decision was made that only the boatmen would ride through the rapids while we hiked and met the boats downstream.  Thankfully, all boats (including the supply rafts) made it through without any problems.  After getting back on board, we had our own heart-thumping experience.  While going through Granite, our boat nearly flipped.  At one point, the craft was almost vertical in the air and our boatmen ended up thrown to one side.  Thankfully, Ed was able to shift his weight against the other side of the boat and right us.  Ed was the only male of the four passengers,  and the only one with sufficient mass to get the right side of the boat down rather than having it fall over and dump us out.  Needless to say, when we made it through without a swim, we shared a few “high fives” and big smiles.  While the next rapids, Hermit, was every bit as nasty as Granite, no more scares for us and the other boats too had an exhilarating ride.  Tonight, we relaxed, had dinner and slept at Mile 118.

Day 8 (June 12) – Mile 118-132:  Again, since the Canyon was narrow, we spent a lot of time in the water riding through small rapids but nothing like the previous day.  Our highlight today was seeing Desert Big Horn Sheep.  We saw a lone male with an incredible set of curled horns.  We also saw a group of five sheep.  They all would skip along the rocks and ledges with amazing agility and speed.  We made camp at Mile 132 and were within ~100 yards of a beautiful waterfall.

Day 9 (June 13) – Mile 132-136:  Today was not a river day but one instead devoted to canyon time.  We hiked up Thunder River to its source, a beautiful waterfall.  The hike was extremely difficult because we had to do it during the peak heat of the day  (9:30A – 4:00P) since that’s when we arrived at the site.  It also had extreme elevation changes (going up some 1500-1800 feet) which meant you really had to be in shape for this one.  When we were finished, the Colorado River looked incredibly inviting.  A few folks did a quick splash just to savor the 50 degree water after surviving 5 miles at 100+ degrees.  We were a pretty worn out bunch when we made camp at Mile 136.

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Day 10 (June 14) – Mile 136-143:  Our hike today began much earlier and was a much more pleasant experience.  We went up Deer Creek in the morning.  In the afternoon, we went through several rapids but again all manageable.  We spent the evening at Mile 143.

Day 11 (June 15) - Mile 143-167:  Our morning on the river began with lots of small rapids.  We then spent time at Havasu Creek during the heat of the day (11:00A-2:00P).  We hiked up the creek, found some shade and relaxed.  We then spent the balance of the day getting to Mile 167 for our camp.

Day 12 (June 16) – Mile 167-183:  This was our last full day on the river and it was a memorable one!  During the morning we did a final hike in a side-canyon, National Canyon.  Then, we faced our final rapid at Lava Falls.  Our boat was the second to go into the rapids.  About mid-way through, the boat in front of us flipped and remained upside down in the water.  We were pushed into it and one of the men on our boat hopped onto it to try to assist in getting it right side up.  Two of the four passengers were with the boat but were told to swim to shore.  The other two passengers were already fighting the current and getting to shore.  Unfortunately, the guys couldn’t right the boat so that had to hang onto it upside down and ride through the next set of rapids.  Once through it, they were able to right the boat and bail out water.  While their ride was harrowing, it was even more so for one the guests.  She wasn’t able to get to shore and went through the rapid feet-first with only her life preserver to keep her afloat.  When she made it through, our boatman was able to grab her and pull her into our boat.  Thankfully, she was fine although shaken as were the other three who had been thrown out of the boat.  The boatman was fine since he had been flipped many times before but it still is scary.  That evening we toasted not only a great trip but the incredible experiences we had shared.

Day 13 (June 17) – Mile 183-189:  Today we had a short ride to our take-out point.  From here, we were picked up by helicopter (4 at a time) and taken to the Bar10 Ranch.  From there, a charter flight took us all to North Las Vegas Airport and a bus took us to McCarren Airport in Las Vegas.  At this point, most folks spent a night (or two) in Las Vegas and then headed home.  Having been in Vegas many times before, we opted to pick up a one-way rental car and return to Flagstaff where we had left our car.

All and all, an incredible experience!  It took weeks for us to digest what we had seen and done and undoubtedly well continue to relive the experience again and again!

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