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In early March 2010, Ed's cousin contacted us to advise that traditionally-rigged sailing ships, also known as "Tall Ships" would be visiting Duluth as part of the Great Lakes United Tall Ships Challenge. We decided it was a unique opportunity to see these vessels as well as spend some time with family. So, we made plans to be in Duluth in late July to enjoy both!
Thursday, 29 July: We arrived at Mark’s home (Ed’s cousin) late in the
morning (we drove from home stopping en route for the night at each of Dodge
City, KS and Omaha, NE). After quick hugs and hellos, we jumped into Mark’s car
and headed to the airport to pick up his sister, Lisa. The Duluth airport is
small so it was easy to find one another. Again, after hugs and hellos we were
all back in Mark’s car headed to his home. We and Lisa quickly settled in and
then we were all off to get a close view of the Tall Ships entering into the
harbor en masse. (As an aside, Mark’s home sits high on a hill with a beautiful
view of Lake Superior and we had already enjoyed a glimpse of the ships on the
lake working their way towards the harbor.)
We drove into town and parked at Mark’s office. From there we walked down to the waterfront. There were lots of people already there awaiting the arrival of the ships. We walked and eventually found a great place in the shade (it was a hot day in Duluth) where Mark and Ed had excellent camera access as the ships approached. There were five large ships (two- and three-masted schooners) and two small ships (still two- and three-masted but very scaled down) that entered the harbor. They were truly spectacular! Two of ships simulated cannon firings as they entered the harbor (no cannon balls, but a loud pop and lots of smoke). It was great to see these beautiful ships in a beautiful setting.
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The HMS Bounty |
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The HMS Bounty entering Duluth Harbor with the lighthouse in the background |
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The Roald Amundsen |
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The US Brig Niagara |
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The Roseway (later in the weekend we go for a sail on this ship) |
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Barque Europa |
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Barque Europa passing under the Duluth Harbor bridge |
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The Pride of Baltimore |
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Zeeto (a bit smaller but still impressive!) |
After all the ships were in the harbor, we returned to Mark’s house for the balance of the day (it was already late afternoon). Ed proceeded to make a home-made tomato sauce and home-made potato gnocchi. The sauce he did alone but Ed enlisted Mark and Lisa’s help in the actual shaping of the gnocchi. After he boiled the gnocchi briefly, Ed then placed them into individual baking dishes along with the home-made tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella cheese. Yum!! While the pasta baked, we each enjoyed a green salad. It was a delicious meal and a great way to end our first day of this get-away together.
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The team at work making gnocchi |
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The end result - these wonderful tasty pieces of pasta made from potato |
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The feast begins! |
Friday, 30 July: We were all up early and after a quick bagel breakfast, we decided to drive north to Gooseberry Falls. What a great site! The last time we had visited the Falls (May 2009), it had recently rained and the Falls were huge. Today, however, it was a different story. We were actually able to walk onto part of the stones which normally are covered with water. Today we once again enjoyed a beautiful waterfall but it was much more delicate than on our previous visit. Also, we were able to access an upper falls after a short walk. Again, it was beautiful too.
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The Lower Falls |
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The Upper Falls |
We decided to return back to Duluth via a scenic lakeside road. When doing so, we saw a huge ore cargo ship, the Roger Blough, pulling into Two Harbors. Mark pulled into a park near Two Harbors Lighthouse and it turned out to be the place where the ore ship picks up its load. The Roger Blough is 858 feet long and has the capacity to carry 43,900 tons of ore. Needless to say, it requires huge docks to load/unload. We watched the ship turn in from the lake, enter the harbor and ultimately dock. It was amazing to see such a huge vessel make these maneuvers without any assistance from a tug boat. After watching this unfold, we went to the lighthouse at the port. We didn’t go inside but instead walking around its perimeter and took photographs. Afterwards we finished our 30 minute drive back to Duluth.
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The Roger Blough |
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The bridge of the ore carrier |
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This is a dock for unloading ore via railcars |
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The Roger Blough as it begins to dock |
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The final docking maneuvers; amazing! |
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Two Harbors Lighthouse |
We took a quick break at home and then headed to the grocery store to pick up some additional items that Ed needed for tonight’s feast – risotto al’funghi. Ed subsequently prepared the risotto (he had previously prepped all the ingredients). We all enjoyed another feast; yum, yum! Then we then relaxed and enjoyed a fun movie, “Wall-E” until it was time to call it a night in anticipation of an early morning departure to see the Tall Ships at their berths in Duluth.
Saturday, 31 July: We left the house at 8:00AM and drove into town. Despite the event, town was still quiet (it definitely paid to get up early) and we found a parking spot in a lot near the harbor. We did have to queue at the entryway to access the area where the ships docked but it too was surprisingly quick. So, before 9:00AM we were in line and enjoying viewing the Tall Ships.
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A view down the line of Tall
Ships |
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Looking at the masts & sails of the Roald Amundsen |
Next, we boarded The Niagara. This ship, built in 1988, is a replica of a brig which contributed to U.S. victory in the War of 1812 on Lake Erie. It is the Official Flagship of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. The ship has two masts and can raise 15 individual sails. Its crew consists of 17 professionals who are assisted by up to 24 trainees. The ship sits fairly low in the water and, as a result, the crew quarters below deck were really tight (i.e., you better like your roomies).
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Looking into the bow of the US Brig Niagara |
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Another view of the bow from the wharf |
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These are gun ports on the US Brig Niagara |
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The Crow's Nest on the US Brig Niagara |
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Lindy and the Captain of the Niagara who is dressed in traditional period costume |
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A beautiful crew member in her below deck sleeping hammock |
Afterwards, we toured the Barque Europa. Again, we had only a brief wait to embark on the ship. The Europa was built in 1911 and, when not sailing the world, the Europa calls Amsterdam its home port. The ship has three masts and can raise an amazing 30 sails.
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A view of the Barque Europa |
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The bow of the Barque Europa |
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Lindy on board the Europa (Look at all those ropes & lines in the picture with her!) |
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A closer look at the Europa's mast & sails |
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Barque Europa's namesake bell |
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The Europa's dining hall (pretty nice!) |
After we finished our second tour, the harbor area was wall-to-wall people. So, we decided to end our touring rather than fight the crowds for the balance of the afternoon. Besides, we knew that tomorrow we would return to the harbor in anticipation of our ride on the ship, Roseway. We spent the balance of the day of relaxing at Mark’s place and enjoying fine dining al’Eduardo (tonight’s highlight being sautéed chicken and mushrooms in wine sauce).
Sunday, 1 August: We began our day by driving out to Park Point, situated on an island shaped like a spit. To access it, we drove across the bridge that rises on the hour and half-hour to allow large ships to access the port (it’s sort of the symbol of Duluth). It was a bit dreary and there were a few sprinkles but it still provided some views back to Duluth and out across Lake Superior.
We then returned to town. After leaving the car, we once again walked along the waterway to view the ships and take additional photographs of the two lighthouses in the entrance of Duluth Harbor. At 12:00 noon, we watched the Roseway return from a sailing into the lake. At 12:50PM, we boarded the Roseway for our own cruise.
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One of Duluth's lighthouse |
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A close-up view of the other lighthouse
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Another view of these amazing masts along the wharf |
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Our USA Flag waving proudly (behind it are loads of small colorful banners) |
The Roseway was built in 1925. It’s a two-masted ship that has four main sails and one small top sail. After hearing our safety briefing, the cruise got underway. Even though it had been gloomy earlier, it was beautiful when we left the harbor. The sun was shining and the captain was able to raise all four main sails. Our adventure began with sailing under the bridge (the one that goes up on the half-hour). Then we went out into the lake. We had great sailing and everyone, esp. the captain and crew were very pleased since there was no wind yesterday and their time on the lake was spent motoring. So, everyone enjoyed an hour of sailing on the main lake before returning back into the harbor. We docked at 3:00PM and all agreed it had been great. For Lisa, it was her first experience in a sailboat (and it won’t be the last).
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The Roseway dropping its first
sail |
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The Roseway approaching the dock |
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Lisa, Mark and The Roseway's Captain as the Captain begins to have the sails unfurled |
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The long view of the top of The Roseway's main sail |
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As we return back to Duluth Harbor, we finish enjoying our sail and another Tall Ship is captured in the background |
On the way back to Mark’s home, we stopped for some groceries. Then Ed again prepared a wonderful dinner of lentil soup (more like stew) assisted by Lisa as sous chef.
Monday, 2 August: We all enjoyed a leisurely morning at Mark’s house. Then Ed made a great frittata brunch before we took Lisa to the airport for her return flight. Afterwards, we spent the balance of the day relaxing before Mark’s return back to work on Tuesday and our trek back home (via Council Bluffs, Iowa and Garden City, Kansas).
Post-log: We had a great time at the Tall Ships in Duluth! We enjoyed our tours of the ships as well as our sail on The Roseway. Then, it was great to spend time together with each of Mark and Lisa. We’ll be looking for another event (or maybe we’ll just make an excuse) to get together again soon!