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andBeyond Phinda Rock Lodge

 H O M E           U P

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            Rock Lodge is set into a cliff-face and it provides great views across the Phinda Reserve.  Everything was amazing – the setting, the food and, of course, the game viewing.  There are six individual bungalows which are designed for the utmost privacy.  It made for an ideal retreat when we were not out on game drives. Also, there are a maximum of 12 guests (two per accommodation) so it’s very intimate.           

Activities at Rock Lodge are scheduled around two key game drives.  Each day begins with coffee and/or tea being offered in the main dining area along with a light snack (typically a "rusk" - a South African biscuit meant to be dunked in a hot beverage).  At about 6:00AM guests walk down the hill from the lodge to the parking area to meet their Tracker and Ranger/Guide for a game drive lasting up to three hours.  The Tracker sits on a small seat on the left side of the four-wheel drive vehicle’s hood (or bonnet) and the Ranger/Guide drives the vehicle while both individuals look for game and/or tracks leading to game.  During the drive, there's a nice break for coffee and/or tea and a chance to stretch your legs.  After the drive, breakfast is served back at the Lodge.  The balance of the morning/early afternoon is free until your chosen luncheon time (between the hours of 1:00P – 2:30P).  At 4:00PM, tea and coffee and a sweet are offered and this is quickly followed by an afternoon/night game drive.  Game viewing occurs while there’s still great afternoon light and as the light begins to dim, typically a cocktail in the bush is enjoyed at sunset (these are referred to as “Sundowners”).  Afterwards the drive back to the Lodge continues.  The Tracker uses a spotlight to search for the “glowing eyes” of nocturnal creatures.  Once back at the Lodge, you're met by a security guard who helps illuminate the path with a torch (flashlight).  Once at the Lodge, Patricia, the Lodge Manager, greets returning guest with a refreshing wash cloth.  Guests can then return to their bungalow to take a break or simply drop off cameras, gear, etc.  A security guard escorts guests to/from the main lodge to their bungalow as there is no walking about at night since the Lodge is not fenced and animals can roam about freely.  A pre-dinner cocktail is offered before an 8:00PM dinner.  Meals are served at private tables (seating is by group) unless there is a special group dinner such as we enjoyed on both Christmas Day and New Year's Eve. 

Life at Rock Lodge is wonderful and the game drives are exciting ways to view the animals, especially with the ability to go into the bush (i.e., off-road) to see creatures in very close proximity.  We enjoyed a wonderful stay and great game viewing at Rock Lodge and highly recommend it to others!  Presence and her team make everyone feel like part of a wonderful family.  Then, the photographs below attest to the great viewings we enjoyed thanks to Ricci, our Ranger/Guide and Siphiwe, our Tracker (we also had two game drives with Matt (Ranger/Guide) and Siboo (Tracker) - also an excellent team).  During our five night stay at  Rock, we had the Big Five” experience – seeing each of a lion, elephant, leopard, buffalo and rhino – always a treat!  The highlight of our game viewing at Rock Lodge including watching a group of four Cheetah stalk, chase and kill a young female Nyala (one of the types of antelopes found in the Reserve). They began eating the Nyala (very quietly) only a short distance from our vehicle. Then, another memorable moment was tracking a group of Lions and ultimately finding one member of the pride (a Lioness enjoying a small Warthog piglet) and then locating the balance of the pride. The photographs below will give you a glimpse into this wonderful adventure! If you're interested in having your own wonderful adventure, contact our &Beyond representative, Desray Rennison, at desray.rennison@andbeyond.com.  Lastly, for more details of our trip, read the daily diary that follows our photographs.

BELOW IS THE SEQUENCE OF PHOTOGRAPHS PRIOR TO AND AFTER THE KILL OF A FEMALE NYALA
(A SOUTH AFRICAN ANTELOPE); DUE TO LOW LIGHT CONDITIONS AT DUSK/EARLY EVENING,
 MAKE SURE TO ENLARGE THE PHOTOGRAPH FOR OPTIMUM VIEWING

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The mother Cheetah sitting alone in the quarry
Two of the male Cheetah brothers
a short distance away from their mother
A closer shot of these beautiful creatures
As dusk approaches and just before
the group leaves the quarry to hunt,
this Cheetah gets scent of a Lion and hisses
The Nyala Kill
The Cheetah all take up an
eating position on the Nyala
The feast is beginning
You can now see the Nyala entrails
as well as blood on the face
of one of the Cheetah
The feast continues albeit with
one or more Cheetah on alert
in the event Lions get the scent
of the kill

BELOW ARE ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS OF SOME OF THE MANY
OTHER WONDERFUL CREATURES FOUND IN PHINDA AND A FEW
FUN SNAPS TOO

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This is a fully grown Nyala with
its distinct "orange boots" and other
unique markings

This is a HUGE Giraffe
Merry Christmas!!
We enjoyed a lovely evening with
Presence, the Rock Lodge Manager
(check out Ed's tuxedo!)
Look at the prehensile lip on this Black Rhino
A lone Bull Elephant
A big yawn with some giant teeth showing
A White Rhino (in the water) and
her calf on dry land
A massive Buffalo
Find the hidden baby Zebra
(it's just beside its Mom)
Look at the lovely cocktail table
that Ricci & Siphiwe prepared for us!
This was the only Hyena we saw at Phinda
One of the majestic Cheetah
Two Water Buck with a
small Crocodile in the foreground

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS VLEI LODGE 

(OR READ THE DETAILED DIARY OF OUR TIME AT ROCK LODGE BELOW)

Detailed Diary:

            December 25 (PM Drive):  Merry Christmas!  Upon arrival at Phinda, we were met by Matt and driven to Rock Lodge.  The transfer itself became a game drive.  Despite the heat, ~32C, a view grazing animals were out and about.  After settling into Rock Lodge (albeit for just one night), we enjoyed a relaxing lunch.  Then, at 4:00PM, our group of six began our evening game drive.  By this time, it was even hotter - ~35C – so our gaming focused near water holes.  We had success in finding two young male lions.  Initially they were lying on some muddy ground to cool off.  Then, we were able to follow them to a spring where they enjoyed some water.  As we moved away from them, we came across two very different birds – a Steppe Buzzard (large) and a European Bee Eater (small).  We also found some of the “usual suspects” – including a huge male Giraffe.  It was a fun and rewarding drive albeit we didn’t stop for “sundowners” as one of our companions said “it was a waste of time”.  Being nice guys, we didn’t insist and instead enjoyed a cocktail at the lodge with Presence and other guests before enjoying a group Christmas Dinner.  It was a very festive event!

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Two male Lions trying to cool off

One decides it's time to leave
for a refreshing drink
We followed these guys to a nearby stream
The two brothers rest near the stream
This is a Steppe Buzzard in the tree top
This orange-booted antelope is a Nyala
and they are everywhere in Phinda -
including sometimes being right
outside your door
This male Giraffe is HUGE (look
at its height compared to the trees)
A beautiful European Bee Eater
A small group of Wildebeest
with some tiny babies
A pre-dinner snap of us and our
wonderful hostess, Presence;
check out Ed's "tuxedo"

 [ T O P ]

            December 26 (AM Drive):  Despite the early hour, it was a hot morning albeit cloudy.  Our drive began by spotting several different groups of White Rhino; always a pleasure to enjoy these rare creatures in the wild.  Then, to our delight, we came across Black Rhino; a real treat!  Most were a bit skittish but we did manage some photographs.  One young male actually made a mock charge to the vehicle.  Then, another thrill – we came across a female Cheetah with her three sub-adult male cubs.  According to our guide, she had left them two days prior but they sought her out and the group was once again united.  After completing our morning drive, we transferred to Vlei Lodge until the afternoon of December 30 which continues below.

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A vista from a high point in Phinda

A group of Lions in the shrubs
A lone White Rhino
A group of White Rhino
This Black Rhino made a mock
charge towards our safari vehicle
We locate yet another Black Rhino
Two of the three sub-adult male Cheetahs
The third brother laying alone
The mother Cheetah stretching
The mother Cheetah goes to join her sons
Mom in a sea of spots

[ T O P ]

            December 30 (PM Drive):  Upon our return to Rock Lodge, we met our Ranger/Guide, Ricci.  She and our Tracker, Siphiwe, would oversee our game rides for the balance of our time in Phinda.  We shared our vehicle today with a family from Detroit – a mother and father plus their sons – one 21 years old; the other 16 years old.  We had a very productive drive and enjoyed seeing multiple animals and birds.  Also, Ricci and Siphiwe put together a great Sundowner table and we all enjoyed a nice cocktail in the bush (except for the 16 year old who enjoyed a nonalcoholic beverage).

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A lone Giraffe

A group of White Rhino -
largest is in this photo
This black & white bird is a
Blacksmith Lapwing
A Crocodile by the water's edge
This Elephant stopped for a pose
A female Elephant with a calf
These beautiful trees are Fever Trees
Look at the lovely cocktail table
that Ricci & Siphiwe prepared for us!

[ T O P ]

            December 31 (AM Drive):  Our morning game drive was very nice.  We ran into multiple groups of White Rhino.  We also came across Buffalo and Wildebeest and several species of birds.  Later we found a female Lion resting.  As a surprise, Presence met our group in the bush with a table set with scones, juices and champagne!  What a treat!  After enjoying this break, our group chose to walk on a game trail back to the Lodge.

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A female Wildebeest with a suckling calf

A female Warthog looks our way
A really impressive White Rhino
This colorful bird is a European Roller
Another White Rhino encounter
during the course of our morning drive
A massive Buffalo - no wonder
this is a member of the "Big Five"
It's amazing how this baby Zebra
blends in with its mom
And yet even more White Rhino;
it's a "Rhino kinda day"
This Lion is curious (and adorable)
This Lion looks a bit more menacing
Our surprise morning treat; thanks to Presence!
A view of Rock Lodge from the walking trail

[ T O P ]

            December 31 (PM Drive):  Our afternoon drive began slowly – likely due to the heat – and we were primarily birding.  However, that changed when we came across a group of lion cubs playing on the road.  Eventually two female lions joined the group.  It was very nice to see the entire group!  Then, we came across the female Cheetah and her three sub-adult males in a quarry.  Initially, they were relaxing and then one male Cheetah left the group.  Some of the other vehicles in the area followed but Ricci & Siphiwe repositioned our vehicle to get closer to the remaining Cheetahs.  It was the right move because the lone male did return to complete the group of four Cheetah.  As it was almost dusk, the female Cheetah left to hunt and the three males joined her.  As some vehicles began to follow the group, Ricci & Siphiwe said that we should go further and take a loop road in hopes of re-encountering the group.  Well, ultimate success!!  We were able to view the final stalking and chase by the group of a female Nyala.  It was awesome!  Once the Nyala was down, the four Cheetah began to eat while the Nyala was still alive (yikes).  Thankfully, it died quickly and the Cheetah enjoyed their feast.  Interestingly, they ate quietly (as compared to lions) and they did so with one or more on watch at all times in the event a lion got scent of the kill.  Obviously, this experience was a “once in a lifetime” event we will never forget!

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This large predator is a
Black-Chested Snake Eagle

What look like ornaments hanging
from these trees are actually Weaver's nests
Another HUGE Giraffe
Lion cubs on the road
This cub decided he/she liked
hiding in the brush
The mother Cheetah sitting alone in the quarry
Two of the male Cheetah brothers
a short distance away from their mother
A closer shot of these beautiful creatures
As dusk approaches and just before
the group leaves the quarry to hunt,
this Cheetah gets scent of a Lion and hisses
As this and the following pictures are taken
in very low light, make sure to enlarge
 them for optimum viewing

The Nyala Kill
The Cheetah all take up an
eating position on the Nyala
The feast is beginning
You can now see the Nyala entrails
as well as blood on the face
of one of the Cheetah

[ T O P ]

            After returning to the lodge, all guests and two Rangers and Presence (Lodge Manager) enjoyed pre-dinner cocktails.  Before dinner began, a group of Zulu dancers put on an amazing display of dancing.  The group was comprised of men, women and children – each of whom displayed amazing talent and agility.  It was a wonderful experience.  Then, we all enjoyed a fantastic holiday dinner.  The icing on the cake…. We returned to our bungalow to find that the room had been lit by candles with a bubble bath drawn.  The perfect ending to an amazing day and a great way to bring in the New Year!

            January 1 (AM Drive):  This morning we enjoyed another great ride with lots of game viewing.  It was a treat to see more Black Rhino as well as our first Waterbuck at Phinda.  Following our game drive, we stopped at Mountain Lodge to visit the gift shop featuring wonderful Zulu traditional arts.

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This shy little guy is a Common Duiker

This lazy Hyena is the
only one we saw in Phinda
A majestic Green Heron
A pair of Waterbuck, again
our first sighting at Phinda
A White Rhino - they are
truly prospering in Phinda
A Black Rhino grazing in
front of a herd of Wildebeest
Yet another massive Black Rhino
Here's a closer look at that unique
prehensile lip
If you look carefully, you'll see this
Black Rhino is spraying to mark his territory

[ T O P ]

            January 1 (PM Drive):  At the request of our companions, our afternoon game ride instead became an afternoon walk.  Our companions had not been in the northern section of Phinda and wanted to visit the Sand Forest – a unique ecosystem.  So, we took a long drive and then walked through the Forest.  Obviously we didn’t have any game viewing while walking due to the noise of being on leaves, branches, etc.  However, we did see some game en route.  Unfortunately, we also had two flat tires.  Thankfully, Ricci and Siphiwe are experts at making changes and a nearby Ranger loaned us his spare so we made it back to the Lodge.  We had a nice group dinner including having Ricci join us as our companions had to leave Phinda the following morning.  (On an aside, about ten days later, Ed came down with South African Tick Fever.  Thankfully, we had some medication and his symptoms disappeared once he finished two doses.  Yeah!)

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Two Water Buck with a small
Crocodile in the foreground

This is a Goliath Heron
Ricci by one of the larger trees
(Note the large rifle she must
carry anytime she or we leave
the safety of our vehicle)
A look up into the canopy
in the Sand Forest
We returned back by foot along
this windy road to retrieve
our vehicle
Did you ever wonder how a Giraffe drinks?
A Green Chameleon
(note the beautiful sunset!)

[ T O P ]

            January 2 (AM Drive):  Today we had the luxury of a private safari.  Our morning began by spotting one of those wonderful Black Rhino at a waterhole.  Then, we decided to try to find the pride of two female lions and their cubs by driving various nearby tracks.  Initially we spotted only a lone female enjoying a Warthog piglet.  However, thanks to Siphiwe, we ultimately located the balance of the group.  We followed them to the nearby waterhole where we originally saw the Black Rhino.  Now, there was a female White Rhino and her calf at the waterhole.  The lions took up position at the opposite end of the waterhole.  We had the pleasure of taking lots of photographs as well as taking “selfies” of us and the Rhino.

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This Black Rhino is already cooling off; it's
interesting he's in the waterhole
He decided it was better to move on
especially after our arrival
Okay, we're begun our quest to locate the
Lions.  Notice that Siphiwe has moved
into the vehicle for safety reasons.
Success!!  Can you spot the Lions in the
long grass? 
This young Male pauses to check us out
This female Lion is leading the
group back to the same waterhole
where we earlier found the Black Rhino
Guess who's now taken over the
waterhole?  A White Rhino
Eyes meet at the Lion passes the White Rhino
Enjoying a well-deserved drink
The White Rhino's calf has now
joined her in the water opposite the
gathering number of Lions
A close-up of a young male Lion
whose mane is just beginning to show
A great view of the calf and mother White Rhino
The mother White Rhino lies in the
water while her calf scratches on a nearby tree
One of the Lions looks on
Selfie time - us and the White Rhino
Siphiwe gets his selfie with
both the mother and calf
Ricci gets in on the action too
Back to the Lions...  Now that's a
big yawn and a huge set of teeth!

[ T O P ]

            January 2 (PM Drive):  We were joined by two honeymooners from Germany.  Ricci went through an orientation and asked if there were any particular species the newcomers would like to see.  Yvonne said she really wanted to see an Elephant.  We hadn’t seen one in several days as they had moved to the north of Phinda but, as luck would have it, our initial sighting was a lone Bull Elephant.  Then, we came across so many additional species, but the highlight was getting great photographs of a massive Black Rhino.  It was the perfect way to end our wonderful game viewing at Phinda.

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The lone Bull Elephant

When he faces the vehicle, this guy
guys looks HUGE
This is a great Black Rhino photo;
his prehensile lip is very evident!
A Lion passing our vehicle during the last
moments of our drive

            When we returned back to Rock Lodge, we enjoyed a lovely farewell dinner for just the two of us.  After dinner, Presence joined us for dessert.  It was a great way to end our nine nights at Phinda Private Game Reserve!

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS VLEI LODGE