A U S T R A L I A
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We spent nine days in the lovely seaside village of Palm Cove. We had a beautiful apartment at Melaleuca Resort. It’s a fantastic property! Our one bedroom apartment offered nice views of the sea and it overlooked the property’s beautiful tropical gardens and sculptured pool area. It was truly a “home away from home” during our nine night stay. While we’re not keen “beach people” Palm Cove served as a perfect base for our explorations of northern Queensland including the northern Daintree Rainforest, the Atherton Tablelands and the rainforest located in Barron Gorge National Park.
Palm Cove: Palm Cove is located about 20 miles north of Cairns. We had a rental car so it was easy to access this small seaside town. Tourism is the main industry in Palm Cove as it sits directly on a lovely beach. There are walking trails along the beach and the town is full of restaurants, shops, etc.
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Mossman Gorge: From Palm Cove, we drove the Captain Cook Highway north through the town of Port Douglas to the town of Mossman. From there, we continued to the Mossman Gorge Centre. The Centre is located in the Daintree Rainforest, a World Heritage listed site. It is the largest continuous area of tropical rainforest in Australia. Further, the Daintree Rainforest is the oldest, continuously surviving rainforest on earth and is believed to be over 135 million years old.
After reading information provided at the Centre, we took a shuttle bus from the Centre to the heart of the gorge. From there we first strolled along the “Baral Marrjanga” which in the language of the indigenous Eastern Kuku Yalanji peoples means “Track of the Elder or Boss.” It was a boardwalk to the Mossman River Lookout. Since it was only the beginning of the rainy season, there wasn’t much water in Mossman River. However, it was used for swimming by the locals.
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Next we walked to the Rex Creek Suspension Bridge. We crossed the bridge and then took a 2.4km circuit track through the rainforest enjoying the lush green environment with its sounds and vivid colors. We took a rest break at Wurrumbu Creek. After spending about 3.5 hours in this beautiful but very hot and humid setting, we caught a shuttle back to the Centre where we collected our car and returned back to Palm Cove.
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Barron Gorge National Park: Just beyond the town of Kuranda (see below), we visited Barron Gorge National Park. The Park is part of the traditional lands of the Djabugay Aboriginal peoples. In 1998, the Park became part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. We took the Budaadji Canopy Walk – an elevated boardwalk to see Barron Falls. The boardwalk is named after the Djabugay ancestral spirit “Budaadji” – a Giant Carpet Snake who the Djabugay believe created the Barron River, the gorge and “Din Din” (Barron Falls). The walk was really beautiful with huge trees and vines everywhere. Also, due to the damp environment there were lots of mushrooms and other tropical plants. The highlight of the walk was seeing Barron Falls. There wasn’t much water present in December but the Falls were nevertheless impressive. It was amazing to see how the continuous flow of water, especially during rainy season, has etched through the rock and forged Barron Gorge.
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Kuranda: Kuranda is a small village surrounded by tropical rainforest and adjacent to Barron Gorge National Park. It’s 1,000 feet above sea level and accessed via a very winding, steep road. Kuranda was first settled by Europeans in 1885 (originally it was home to the Djabugay peoples). It is considered a bit cooler and less humid than the coast (you couldn’t prove it during our visit!). In the 1960’s it was known as a “hippy community” and the alternative lifestyle led to the production of lots of arts and crafts. These are now found in the Kuranda Markets – a scattering of booths and small stores selling handmade items. We enjoyed spending time there, in particular at the two tourist attractions described below.
BirdWorld (Kuranda): We enjoyed spending time in BirdWorld - home to the largest single collection of free flying birds in Australia. There is huge netting which keeps the birds inside a tropical rainforest environment but they are allowed to fly freely within the compound. The birds are not only from Australia but also from other rainforests such as the Amazon. BirdWorld presents some great opportunities for photography. While some of the birds are shy, others enjoy sitting on guests’ heads or shoulders. One cheeky bird actually took the button off the top of Lindy’s baseball cap! And, no, we didn’t get it back. (All birds are native unless otherwise noted.)
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Australian Butterfly Sanctuary (Kuranda): The Australian Butterfly Sanctuary is another great place to spend time. It’s an aviary that serves as home to numerous beautiful butterfly species. The Sanctuary also houses a caterpillar breeding nursery. You can take a guided tour to learn about the various stages of development of the caterpillars until they emerge as butterflies. Photography is a bit tricky as most butterflies are constantly on the move but it’s worth the wait to get a chance at capturing one of these graceful creatures.
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Lake Barrine: Lake Barrine is located on the Atherton Tableland, a fertile plateau which is part of the Great Dividing Range, found inland and southwest of Cairns. It is one of two lakes in Crater Lakes National Park. Its elevated position makes it very different from the lowlands tropical rainforest. Lake Barrine is a natural crater lake that is about one kilometer in diameter. No streams or springs feed this beautiful lake; it is filled only by rainwater. Amazing!
Lake Barrine is famous for its Bull Kauri trees. These ancient pine trees can be over 50 meters (180 feet) tall and have a girth of 6 meters (19.5 feet). They truly are huge and very magnificent! We enjoyed walking among these giants! They are found only in a small area of the Atherton Table between altitudes of 600-1000 meters (1,969 – 3,280 feet). It was definitely worth the drive there to enjoy the setting and the rare Bull Kauri trees.
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The beautiful drive up to |
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The pristine Lake Barrine | |
Looking up through the massive Bull Kauri Trees |
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Ed by the massive Bull Kauri Trees |
Curtain Fig National Park: Also located on the Atherton Tableland is Curtain Fig National Park. Its main attraction is a huge fig tree whose aerial roots drop about 15 meters (50 feet) to the forest floor to form a “curtain.” The tree is about 50 meters (165 feet) tall and is estimated to be 500 years old. Access to the Curtain Fig is via an elevated boardwalk. Photography is a bit challenging given how huge this tree is but you certainly get the idea from the photographs below.
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For some perspective, Lindy |
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Another view showing a bit more of the top of this Curtain Fig |