So Korea

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We spent five nights in Seoul beginning Tuesday, 12 November through Saturday, 16 November. We had not visited Seoul since 2007 and we only spent one full day touring on that trip. So, we were pleased to be staying at the Holiday Inn Seongbuk with its easy access to the bus and metro systems as well as a nearby supermarket.

We traveled to various sights using a prepaid T-Card which we purchased on arrival at Incheon Airport. It gave us the ability to use mass transit to visit various parts of the city. To get to and from our hotel, we used the CALT Airport Bus which has a stop just outside the Holiday Inn. It was very easy to use and very convenient.

Deoksugung Palace: We arrived at Deoksugung Palace from the City Hall metro station. We got there just in time to watch the changing of the Royal Guards. During the Joseon Dynasty, the royal guards were responsible for guarding and patrolling the gates of the capital city and the royal palaces. The royal palace guards, who were known as the "Wanggung Sumunjang", had the very important duty of protecting the king by guarding the entrance gates of the primary royal palace where the king resided. They were in charge of opening and closing the palace gates, inspecting all visitors, and maintaining a close surveillance of the palace. They were divided into day and night shifts, and the Changing of the Guard ceremony took place whenever the shifts changed over.

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	The Changing of the Guard commences
	The Palace entry and the Guard
	Part of the ceremony involves beating the drum (notice the pack of arrows held on the back of the Guard members)
	The ceremony continues
	A beautiful and amazing ceremony
	Wow, those colorful costumes!
	Us with the Sumunjang (Head of the Royal Guard)

The Palace itself is one of five royal palaces in Seoul. It is the smallest and means “Palace of virtue and longevity.” It holds many beautiful buildings and, given that it was Fall, the foliage was very lovely. It was a great place to spend a day.

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	The initial buildings as we enter Deoksugung Palace
	The building in the foreground is Deokhongjeon and the other building is Junghwajeon Hall
	A closer look at the beautiful & ornate Deokhongjeon Hall
	Us enjoying the beautiful foliage in Deoksugung Palace
	Jungwamun Gate
	Jungwajeon Hall

Namdaemun Gate/Dongdaumun Gate: Namdaemun Gate (“Gate of Exalted Ceremony”) is also know as the Great South Gate. When originally built, it towered over the nearby Doeksugung Palace and other low-standing buildings. Now it is surrounded by skyscrapers. Namdaumen is one of four large gates and five minor gates that originally protected the city of Seoul. It is the only gate to be designated as a National Treasure. The Gate is situated in one of the busiest intersections in Seoul. However, Sungnyemun Square, a grassy knoll surrounding Namdaemun, provides access to the city’s fortress gate. The Square serves as a convenient gateway to Namdaemun market, a traditional twenty-four hour market that has been operating since the 1600s. Dongdaemun Gate (“Rate of Rising Benevolence) is also known as the Great East Gate. It was originally built in 1398. It is only one of two gates that is a two-storied building. Like Namdaumen, there is a nearby Dongdaumun Market.

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Changdeok Palace: Changdeok Palace was built in 1405. It is one of the “Five Grand Palaces” built by the kings of the Joseon Dynasty. Changdeok is considered to be the second palace after Gyeongbok Palace which was established in 1395 as the primary palace. It also is called the “East Palace.”

Today there are 13 buildings remaining on the palace grounds and 28 pavilions in the gardens, occupying 110 acres and the area is designated as Historical Site No. 122.

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	Donhwamun Gate was restored in 1609. It is two stories tall with the upper story used for surveillance
	A beautiful Maple Tree in front of Jinseonmun
	A full view of Jinseonmun or Jinseon Gate, one of two gates leading to the interior gate, Injeong Gate
	Beautiful roof lines in the Palace
	Injeongmun or Injeong Gate. the entry to Injeongjeon, the main Palace hall
	The beautiful and impressive Injeongjeon
	The interior of Injeongjeon
	Sukjangmun or Sukjang Gate, the second gate leading to Injeongjeon, the main Palace hall
	The roof of Injeongjeon from near Sukjang Gate
	Seonjeongjeon or King's Work Area
	Inside the King's Work Area
	Another view of beautiful roof lines
	The Naeuiwon or Infirmary
	More beauty within the Palace

DMZ & Panmunjeon: We took a tour outside of Seoul to visit the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) between North Korea and South Korea and Panmunjeon also known as the Joint Security Area.

We took a bus and drove north. Our first stop was Imjingak. Imjingak is a park overlooking the Imjinggang River. There we saw a Korean War Veterans Memorial as well as the Peace Bell. We also saw the Freedom Bridge, a hastily constructed bridge. Approximately 130,000 South Korean and Allied POWs crossed this bridge at the end of the Korean War. Next we were off to the Third Tunnel. It was discovered on October 17, 1978. It was built by the North Koreans and it has been estimated that it would take an hour for 10,000 North Korean soldiers to move through the tunnel which is only about 32 miles from Seoul. Yikes! We took a tour of the tunnel wearing hard hats. It was very steep and dark despite some ceiling lights in place. It was amazing to think that officials in North Korea had contemplated a land invasion of South Korea.

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	Welcome to Imjingak
	The Korean War Veterans Memorial
	Us in front of the Peace Bell
	Artwork outside The Third Tunnel (no photography was possible inside)

Afterwards we went to the Dora Observatory. On a clear day (which we didn’t have) it’s possible to see North Korean military personal and, in the evenings, the lights of Gaeseong, North Korea. We then visited the now empty Dorasan Station. It’s a railroad station on the Gyeongui Line which for a short time connected South Korean and North Korea. It’s 34 miles from Seoul Station and 127 miles from Pyongyang, North Korea. In June 2000, both Korean governments agreed to connect the line and link their countries. This was done in June 2003. Beginning in 2006, freight trains with industrial supplies began traveling into North Korea. However, the line was shut down in December 2008 by the government of North Korea.

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	Dora Observatory (unfortunately the day was quite cloudy so we couldn't see into North Korea)
	The empty Dorasan Station
	A sign reads: "Not the last station from the South, but the first station toward the North."
	Ed's ready to board (if only there was a train!)
	Lindy standing with a Republic of Korea soldier at Dorasan Station

Next we proceeded on toward the DMZ and ultimately Panmunjeon (the Joint Security Area). The DMZ is 4km wide and 250km in length crossing the Korean peninsula. Tourists can visit this area only as part of an organized tour. As we came into the area, a US troop member came aboard and reviewed everyone’s passport. Then, the bus proceeded to a briefing building where we were told about the history of the area, advised of what we could/could not do, etc. Then, it was another quick bus ride to the actual Panmunjeon area. Here there is a small group of buildings on both sides. There is a concrete split across the area which is the Military Demarcation Line, the actual border between South Korea and North Korea. Here on both sides of the border face South Korean and North Korean soldiers. In between is a blue building where talks can be held. It’s called the MAC (Military Armistice Committee) building.

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After taking photographs of the troops (including us photographing a North Korean watching our group with binoculars), we were allowed inside the MAC building. From one of its windows, we were able to photograph the concrete MDL border. Then we took photographs of the meeting table and then one of us in the South Korean side and one in the North Korean side. Pretty amazing! On an aside, the troops in both areas were South Korean since we were a group from South Korean. If North Korean visitors were present, then the troops inside would be North Korean.

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	We're now at the actual Panmunjeon area. US and ROK soldiers are near the blue buildings. The large concrete building is in North Korea. Look carefully to see the concrete MDL (border) running between the blue buildings.
	A close-up of the concrete building reveals a North Korean soldier watching us with binoculars
	A closer view of the concrete Military Demarcation Line (MDL)
	The negotiation table inside the Military Armistice Committee (MAC) Building
	Looking outside at the MDL; the negotiation table actually sits such that half is in South Korea and half is in North Korea
	Us standing in the South Korean side of the MAC Building
	Us standing in the North Korean side of the MAC Building

Seeing all we did on this day tour was truly an amazing experience. Without being there in person it’s hard to fathom such a vast border with troops deployed on both sides.

	Namdaemun Gate (the "Great South Gate")
	The busy Namdaemun market
	Dongdaumun Gate

	Us at a DMZ sign
	The DMZ razor-wire fencing
	The briefing building for visitors like us