Ngala Tented Camp

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We spent four days/nights at Ngala Tented Camp in the Ngala Private Game Reserve (http://www.andbeyond.com/ngala-tented-camp/). After enjoying our time at Tanda Tula Safari Camp, we drove out of the Timbavati Private Game Reserve. We then took the R40 south to Orpen Road, a road leading to the Orpen Gate of Kruger National Park. We stopped at the Gate to inform the gatekeeper that we were incoming guests at Ngala Tented Camp and he told us where to turn to reach the Camp. The Ngala Private Game Reserve abuts the Kruger National Park and is comprised of 37,100 acres of rich wildlife. There are no fences so animals can roam freely between these two areas.

Activities at Ngala Tented Camp are scheduled around two key game drives. Each day begins with a staff member arriving at your tent at 5:30AM with a “wake-up tray” which includes a light snack (a rusk (South African biscuit meant to be dunked in a hot beverage) or a crispie (home-made granola squares)) and hot water to make tea, coffee and/or cocoa. At 6:00AM guests begin a three-hour game ride in the company of their Tracker and Ranger/Guide. The Tracker sits on a small seat on the left side of the four-wheel drive vehicle’s hood (or bonnet) and the Ranger/Guide drives the vehicle while both individuals look for game and/or tracks leading to game. After the drive, breakfast is served. The balance of the morning/early afternoon is free until your chosen luncheon time (between the hours of 1:00P – 2:30P (we typically chose 2:00PM)). At 4:00PM, tea and coffee and a sweet are offered and this is quickly followed by an afternoon/night game drive. Game viewing occurs while there’s still great afternoon light and as the light begins to dim, typically a cocktail in the bush is enjoyed at sunset (these are referred to as “Sundowners”). Afterwards the drive back to Camp continues. The Tracker uses a spotlight to search for the “glowing eyes” of nocturnal creatures. Once back at Camp, a security guard walks individuals to their respective tents where you can take a break or simply drop off cameras, gear, etc. There is no walking about Camp at night since it is not fenced and animals can roam about freely. A pre-dinner cocktail is offered before an 8:00PM dinner. Meals are served at private tables (seating is by group – in our case a party of three) unless there is a special group dinner such as a South African braai (barbeque).

Camp life is wonderful and the game drives are exciting ways to view the animals, especially with the ability to go into the bush (i.e., off-road) to see creatures in very close proximity. We enjoyed a wonderful stay and great game viewing at Ngala Tented Camp and highly recommend it to others. The photographs below attest to the great viewings we enjoyed thanks to Scott, our Ranger/Guide and Earnest, our Tracker. During our four night stay at Ngala, we had the fabulous experience of sighting the “Big Five” – Elephant, Buffalo, Lion, Leopard and Rhinoceros!! If you're interested in having your own wonderful adventure, contact our &Beyond representative, Desray Rennison, at desray.rennison@andbeyond.com. Lastly, for more details of our trip, read the daily diary that follows our photographs.

THE BIG FIVE NEED NO TITLES; THE TERM "BIG FIVE" ORIGINALLY WAS COINED
BY HUNTERS TO DESCRIBE THE DIFFICULTY AND DANGER ASSOCIATED WITH
THESE FIVE ANIMALS. WE CONTINUE TO USE THIS TERM BUT NOW AS PART
OF A PHOTOGRAPHIC SAFARI ADVENTURE.

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THERE ARE MANY OTHER BEAUTIFUL AND MAJESTIC ANIMALS TO
BE ENJOYED AT NGALA. THESE PHOTOGRAPHS INCLUDE TITLES IN
THE EVENT ONE OR MORE OF THESE CREATURES IS NEW TO YOU.

	A beautiful male Kudu
	A female Leopard in a tree
	A female Buffalo with her calf
	Bull Giraffe
	Yellow-Billed Hornbill
	This guy is really thirsty
	Ground Southern Hornbill
	Wildebeest
	A Lioness with two nursing cubs
	Side-Striped Jackal
	White-Headed Vulture
	Zebra at a waterhole
	A Hyena on the move

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Saturday, 5 October: We arrived at Ngala Tented Camp at about 12:30PM and were met by Dennis, the Camp Manager. After quickly settling into our respective tents, we enjoyed a delicious lunch before beginning our game drive. At 3:30PM we left our luxury tent and returned back to the main building in the Camp. Here we met our ranger, Scott, who gave us, Mark and our three companions an overview of the Camp, Ngala Reserve and potential animal sightings as well as safety instructions when outside of Camp. Our drive began at about 4:15PM. We first drove into the dry Timbavati River bed and saw a lone Bull Elephant. Then instead of going up and out of the river bed we continued driving along it. We saw a large male Kudu on the ridge and it was an impressive sight. We also were able to see and identify a Fish Eagle and a Walberg’s Eagle (we weren’t able to photograph either of them). We did have one cooperative Yellow-bill Hornbill. The highlight of our evening (despite low light conditions) was seeing a female Leopard with her two male cubs. They were absolutely stunning! Just before we were about to call it a night due to darkness, two Hyena tried to make a surprise attack on the cubs. The mother Leopard jumped up and the cubs went into two different hiding spots – one a tree in front of us and the other behind us, we assume in a tree. The Hyena quickly retreated. By now it was dark so we had to return to Camp. We all hoped both cubs survived the night.

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	A lone Bull Elephant who isn't too old since his tusks are not large
	A beautiful male Kudu on the ridge
	A Yellow-Billed Horn Bill
	The mother Leopard up a tree
	One of her cubs near a tree before the Hyena arrive
	This second cub is coming down the tree backside first (again before the Hyena arrive)

[ T O P ]

Once we returned to Camp, we were escorted back to our room to drop off our things and then we went back to the main building in the Camp. Here we enjoyed a cocktail and socialized with other guests. Then we had a private table for three set out on the terrace where we enjoyed a delicious dinner. Yes, Chef Grimond is definitely spoiling us! We returned to our tent (again, accompanied by a staff member) at 10:00PM after a long and rewarding first day!

Sunday, 6 October: Our first morning drive at Ngala began with spotting a White-backed Vulture sitting not far off the road. Everyone was able to get some nice photographs of this large bird. Then, amazingly, Earnest spotted a pair of Ostrich on the horizon so we drove toward them briefly just so everyone could get a glimpse of them. There was no need to go any farther because we would never be able to catch up to them, especially as they went into a very bushy area.

Then Earnest told Scott he had a “feeling in his stomach” that before beginning on our intended drive, we should make a brief stop at an open savanna. His instinct turned out to be so right! Once we were in the savanna, the guys saw a Side-Striped Jackal but it ran away from us. While chasing after it, we also spotted a group of Giraffe that had stopped feeding. Almost at that same time, Earnest heard Impala snorting (a sound used to send an alarm to the group). Then, he spotted a huge male Lion. No wonder every other creature was giving it the right of way! The Lion was both amazing and beautiful. Scott estimated it was about five years old. Its mane was not yet the dark color that mature Lions wear.

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	This White-Backed Vulture sits patiently on a dead tree limb
	The huge male Lion spotted by Earnest

We paralleled the Lion’s path as best we could by driving over brushes and small trees. This was the first time Earnest had seen this particular Lion in his six years at Ngala so it made this sighting very special for him. As the Lion walked it was constantly marking its territory by scenting various bushes it passed. The Lion finally stopped at a waterhole and we were able to get great pictures of it drinking. Afterwards it continued along in the bush and we continued to parallel it until another vehicle arrived. Then, after taking one shot of the Lion standing alone, the guy decided it was nap time and promptly dropped to the cool sand under a tree. Scott suggested we continue on since we had already had a fabulous experience and everyone agreed.

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	Another view of the Lion as we tracked along its side
	The Lion is scent-marking its territory
	At long last, time for a drink

We next drove back towards Camp and again found the female Leopard and, thankfully, both of her two cubs. They had evidently just finished eating some more of the Impala she had stashed in a nearby tree and were now lounging in a grassy area nearby. We were able to park very close and observe them. Photography was a bit tricky due to the setting and there amazing colorations but we did get a few snaps. On our final drive back into Camp we saw a group of eight male Buffalo cooling off in the river bed.

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	The female Leopard is grooming one of her cubs
	The female Leopard pauses her grooming so we got a nice look at her face
	The Leopard's second cub is hidden in the nearby grass
	Earnest & Scott enjoying a well-deserved break by the &Beyond jeep

We arrived back at Camp at 9:30AM. After stopping by our tent to drop off our gear, we returned to the main Camp building. David, our “Butler” (the individual who attended to all our needs, food requests, evening beverages, etc.) took care of getting us coffee and then placed our order for breakfast. We enjoyed it while sitting on the terrace. Then it was back to our tent to clean-up, download photographs, etc.

At 2:00PM we and Mark met for a light lunch. We had to enjoy it under the sheltered part of the terrace as it was now getting very warm. Ed and I each had a delicious serving of Hake while Mark enjoyed a Quinoa-inspired salad. Again, it was excellent! After relaxing there we only had about an hour before our next adventure.

Our afternoon drive began at 4:00PM after sweets and coffee/tea (both of which our entire group avoided due to the calories and because it was well over 100 degrees – not quite appealing for a hot beverage). On this drive we headed to the south (our other drives had gone to the east) in hopes of finding Rhino. En route we once again saw a Jackal – a Side-Striped Jackal. However, these guys are so wary we weren’t able to get a photograph. We also saw a lone Wildebeest and several groups of Giraffe. We stopped to photograph an Eagle Owl; it was well hidden in the tree to avoid detection prior to its evening hunt. As we continued south, we had success. We came across three Rhino – a male and a female with her calf. Scott explained that the male Rhino normally is alone but will follow a female when he thinks she might be willing to mate. It was great to photograph these huge creatures, especially once they relaxed and became accustomed to our vehicle.

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	Look carefully to see the well-hidden Eagle Owl
	A lone Giraffe viewing its surroundings
	The Rhino group - the male is on the left and the mother & calf on the right
	A closer view of the mother Rhino and her calf

We next drove to a waterhole where a herd of Buffalo had gathered. It was very large; Earnest estimated it had about 400 members. It was a very hot afternoon so the Buffalo would walk as far into the water as possible before beginning to drink. Hey, a great way to cool off on a very hot day! We left the waterhole and returned back to an open savanna. To our delight, here we found two male Rhino eating away. Again, they weren’t shy so we were able to photograph them.

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	The Buffalo herd drinking and/or cooling off in the water
	A mother Buffalo and her calf. The calf is a great target for predators.
	One of the two huge male Rhinos eating out on the savanna

When we left them, we found a great spot for a sundown cocktail. It started to cool off nicely so it was a great break. We all raised a glass in toast to Scott and Earnest because in our short time together (three drives) we had seen the “Big Five” -– Elephant, Buffalo, Lion, Leopard and Rhinoceros!! During our break Scott did point out that a storm was approaching the nearby mountains. He said it wasn’t likely to rain but it might kick up some wind. As we returned back to our vehicle, Earnest spotted a Puff Adder and pointed it out to us. We're glad he saw it first and we were all able to avoid it.

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Then, we enjoyed an unexpected treat. Instead of returning to the Camp, we pulled into a picnic area with a bonfire roaring. This style of outdoor dining is referred to as a “boma” (the acronym originally describing the “British Officers Mess Area”). Here we enjoyed a “braai” (a South African barbeque) dinner party. The staff had set up a long table that could accommodate all guests and guides. There were lanterns scattered on the ground as well as on the community table. Also, a bar was set-up for pre-dinner cocktails. We had really just finished cocktails when the wind began to roar. It made it really tough on our hosts and service staff because everything started blowing around, lanterns blew out and had to be re-lit, the bonfire went wild but was still under control, etc. Despite the windy conditions (which meant a cold front was arriving), the braai was a huge success. Before dining, staff members entertained the group by singing and using a few musical instruments. First came some gospel music followed by traditional Shangaan music. There were some excellent voices among the group! Then we enjoyed a great meal featuring Kudu; delicious! Afterwards we were driven back to Camp after a full and rewarding day.

Monday, 7 October: After last evening’s winds, the temperature was quite mild and it was in the low 60’s. So it was a bit nippy. We began by returning to the open savanna to check what might be there. This time we found a Black-Backed Jackal and did manage to get a long-distance photograph of this elusive creature. Then, Scott got a call over the radio that a female Leopard had been spotted with her kill up a tree. He asked our group if we wanted to go see it and everyone said “absolutely!” It took about 10 minutes to arrive at the sight and Scott selected a great parking spot which allowed for photography.

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	The elusive Black-Backed Jackal
	The female Leopard enjoying her kill in a tree
	Yum, it's good
	Now the Leopard has repositioned herself to partake of some leg meat
	The Leopard is getting ready to leave her kill in the tree; she'll return later to eat more of the carcass
	A view of this beautiful Leopard before she departs

Afterwards, we drove along the Old Orpen Road to a waterhole not too far from the Wildlife College (we could see the buildings). There we enjoyed a morning coffee while watching Hippo in the pond. Despite the temperature, it was still very nice. On our way back home we saw a few Wildebeest. Then we came upon a large group of Giraffe, including a one-month old calf. The guys pointed out that a small portion of the umbilical cord was still attached to its navel. It was yet another amazing site!

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	A Wildebeest glances back at our vehicle
	A large Bull Giraffe amongst the herd
	A photo of the one-month old Giraffe calf

We were once again back at Camp near 9:30AM. We each enjoyed some fresh yogurt & cereal before having made-to-order egg white omelets. After breakfast we showed David our MP3 player and speakers. We did so because during last evening’s festivities David often sang lead vocal. His voice, especially while singing gospel, reminded us of Joshua Kadison. So, we set up the player and speakers and put on Kadison’s, “The Gospel According to My Old Man”; David loved it! As we were scrolling through the MP3 albums, he recognized many other artists (ABBA, Dire Straits, Eric Clapton, etc.). So we left the player and speakers with David and told him to enjoy it and share it with others for the balance of our stay. Afterwards we returned back to our tent for the usual chores. We returned to the main building in Camp for lunch at 2:00PM. Mark had cold meat platter while we enjoyed BBQ chicken with another spicy sauce.

At 4:00PM we began our sunset drive. The day had remained cloudy so it was once again cool. We returned to see the female Leopard with her two cubs. Initially all of them were on the ground but the mother went up the tree to feed while her cubs played with one another. Then took a drive north along the Ngala/Kruger unfenced border to reach an area with a female Lion and two cubs had been spotted. We found them along with an adolescent male. It was amazing to see the cubs nursing. Once they started feeding, they closed their eyes and were in “Lion-Nirvana.” By the time we had finished enjoying this process, we had a 45 minute return drive back to Camp. Since it was cold and windy, our group decided to forego cocktails in the bush and instead enjoy them at the Camp.

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	One of the Leopard cubs lying in the grass
	The mother Leopard enjoying her Impala kill in the tree
	The female Lion with her two cubs
	As Mom sleeps, the two cubs get into position to nurse
	Nursing Lion cubs (i.e., "Lion Nirvana")

Once Earnest and Scott had finished their respective chores (i.e., Earnest getting the vehicle cleaned and put away and Scott returning his rifle to the locked storage), they joined us for a cocktail. We then enjoyed another nice evening meal but we did need to eat wearing a fleece due to the continuing cool temps.

Tuesday, 8 October: Our morning drive began by seeing the Giraffe we had seen previous evening with the small baby. As we continued our drive, Earnest spotted an Impala kill but no Leopard. Scott decided to drive off-road into area to check it out and he and Earnest found a huge male Leopard. This guy was gorgeous and we were able to get some really nice photographs. These are truly stunning creatures!

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	The female Giraffe with her young calf
	This guy wasn't happy to see us when we first arrived
	Eventually this Leopard settled back down
	What a beautiful face!
	The Leopard decided to leave after finishing his "R&R" time

After enjoying this spot, we drove west into the Ngala Reserve and saw a Pearl-spotted Owlet. Although fairly small, there was no doubt that it was an owl. We stopped at a waterhole just in time to see a Hyena there. Also enjoying the waterhole was a small group of Zebra. We learned that the Zebra baby imprints on the stripes near Mom’s front upper leg joint to recognize her especially when in huge herds. As we continued, we saw a termite mound taken over by Dwarf Mongoose. It was amazing how many entrances/exits they had created in the old mound. Then, we had another treat. The guys spotted three Southern Ground Hornbill. These are really magnificent birds and we hadn’t seen them since our visit to the Berg-en-dal area of Kruger. It was a real treat! En route back to Camp, Scott stopped by the skull of a Buffalo. When he held it up, we could really see how massive it was. Our final wildlife encounter was a group of male Elephants crossing the Timbavati River just before we returned back to Camp.

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	This is a beautiful Pearl-spotted Owl
	This Hyena is getting a nice drink
	You can see the Hyena's massive shoulders as it trots away
	These Zebra are enjoying the waterhole too
	One of the Dwarf Mongoose peaking out of the many entrances/exits in the old termite mound
	Two Southern Ground Hornbill
	A closer look at one of these Southern Ground Hornbill
	Earnest & Scott with the table set for morning coffee & snacks
	Us pretending to spot game with Ed holding the 375 rifle (with no ammunition in it - of course!)
	You can get some perspective of the size of a Buffalo from its skull
	These Elephants are headed away from the river and into the bush

After a quick clean-up Scott joined us for breakfast. Afterwards Scott took us to the kitchen to see the operation and watch Chef Grimond at work. Our tour continued by visiting the quarters for the Camp staff. We learned about 30 individuals are needed to keep everything running smoothly. After our tour, we returned back to our tent for afternoon chores.

When our evening drive began, we came across a large Elephant breeding herd. We had fun watching them climb out of the Timbavati River bed onto the shore. The small Elephants often got a push from Mom or a friend. Some Elephants basically crawled up the bank on their knees. It was a fun and interesting thing to see! Then Scott asked if we were interested in visiting a Hyena den in hopes of finding the residents at home. After a resounding “yes” from the group, we headed to that location. En route, we saw yet another Elephant herd. They had definitely moved into the area!

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	A group of Elephants crossing the Timbavati River bed
	Getting up that bank can present quite a challenge
	A beautiful male Kudu
	A mother Elephant and her calf are enjoying breakfast
	This baby Elephant is suckling while its mother eats
	Now the baby Elephant looks very content

We then had another great treat as the Hyena were at the den. Yeah! There was an Alpha female and her seven cubs plus other Hyena who assist with the care-giving as only the Alpha female/male mate. It was an amazing sight watching the cubs tumble about with one another and occasionally pester an adult. Despite it being a cool night, we did stop for an evening cocktail so we could “clink, clink” the success of both our day and our entire time at Ngala Tented Camp albeit knowing we had one more morning drive before our departure.

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	The first Hyena we see as we approach the den
	The Alpha Female Hyena with an adolescent and a pup
	This adolescent isn't quite sure whether or not we should be at the den
	These two pups are curious too
	A shot of Venus and the Moon from our Sundowner spot

Once back in Camp, Earnest and Scott again joined our group for another celebratory cocktail. These wonderful guys showed us so many memorable sights while in Ngala Private Reserve. Earnest bowed out due to family obligations but Scott did join us at our farewell dinner.

Wednesday, 9 October: Once again, for this was our final morning drive at Ngala Tented Camp, Scott was behind the wheel and Earnest was in the Tracker’s seat. Our first sighting was a Wahlberg's Eagle. We love the raptors so this was a nice farewell. It also was a “Giraffe Day” as we came across three separate groups enjoying a morning meal. We also had the treat of seeing two Side-Striped Jackal – each being alone at the time it was spotted. Our final encounter was seeing a group of three Rhino. There was a large male lying down; it was a first for us to see one of these big guys get up and down. He was following a female and her calf in hopes she ultimately might choose to mate with him

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	A majestic Walberg's Eagle
	A side-striped Jackal
	A Rhino group, with a large male lying down
	Eventually that big male Rhino got on its feet
	A closer look at the mother Rhino and her calf

After our morning ride, we returned to Camp and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. After repacking our belongings into the car, we left Camp to go to Leadwood Lodge, another &Beyond property located in the Sabi Sands.

In closing, we enjoyed a wonderful stay at Ngala Tented Camp! Dennis, the Camp Manager, runs a terrific operation. Thanks to the skills of Scott and Earnest, we enjoyed some great game sightings. We all enjoyed a truly excellent adventure!

	Sunset on the savanna
	This Puff Adder is small but very dangerous