Kruger NP

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We spent 19 nights in Kruger National Park. Our trek began in the southern part of the Park and we worked our way north. In the process we stayed at six different Rest Camps run by the South African Parks. At each of these camps, we rented a furnished cabin or bungalow with private facilities. Interestingly, in the majority of these camps, the kitchen is outdoors. It makes for easy access if your primary cooking is a “braai” (South African equivalent for barbeque) which is typically located a short distance from the patio. We had a fantastic time exploring the park and seeing some of its many wildlife residents! We drove our rental car on both paved and unpaved roads. Camp gates open at 6:00AM and close at 6:00PM so that is the window for driving. However, we took several Sunset Drives in camp vehicles which began at 4:30PM and ended at 7:30PM. We also took a Night Drive which began at 8:00PM and ended at 10:00PM. Then, to our amazement, we were actually able to join a guided walk on two separate mornings. Here two armed rangers take guests into the bush using the same trails the animals do and, yes, we came in close contact with wild creatures.

Below are some of our favorite photographs. During our time in Kruger National Park, we had the amazing experience of sighting the “Big Five” – Elephant, Buffalo, Lion, Leopard and Rhinoceros! In addition, we saw an amazing number of other beautiful and fantastic birds and animals. If you want to read the details of our self-drive adventure, please read the longer diary which follows our photographs.

THE BIG FIVE NEED NO TITLES; THE TERM "BIG FIVE" ORIGINALLY WAS COINED
BY HUNTERS TO DESCRIBE THE DIFFICULTY AND DANGER ASSOCIATED WITH
THESE FIVE ANIMALS. WE CONTINUE TO USE THIS TERM BUT NOW AS PART
OF A PHOTOGRAPHIC SAFARI ADVENTURE.

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THERE ARE MANY OTHER BEAUTIFUL AND MAJESTIC ANIMALS TO
BE ENJOYED IN KRUGER NATIONAL PARK. THESE PHOTOGRAPHS INCLUDE TITLES IN
THE EVENT ONE OR MORE OF THESE CREATURES IS NEW TO YOU.

	A large male Kudu
	Two Baboons - one grooming the other
	A Leopard sitting in a tree
	A Tawny Eagle over its nest
	A tiny Chobe, a small antelope, taking a drink at a waterhole
	A lone Giraffe
	A Yellow-Billed Hornbill
	A lone Hyena
	A Red-Billed Hornbill
	A curious Bushpig
	A Wildebeest
	An African Fish Eagle
	A Zebra
	A pair of Ostrich - did you expect these in Kruger National Park?
	This Hippopotamus is being groomed by small birds, Ox Pickers, which remove parasites
	An African Wild Cat, typically a nocturnal animal
	A very large Southern Ground Hornbill
	Crocodile sunning on a river bank
	A Lilac-Breasted Roller
	A male fully-grown Steenbok, another small antelope
	An Eagle Owl which stands over two feet tall
	An Impala with two Vervet Monkeys in the foreground
	A Warthog - you have to love this guy's ugly face
	A beautiful Goliath Heron
	A young male Waterbuck, easily recognized by the white circle on its rump
	A Kori Bustard standing over four feet tall and weighing as much as 25 pounds
	A tiny Grysbok
	A pair of Saddleback Storks (look at the one sitting with its legs bent forward at the knees)
	A male Bushbok

Tuesday, 10 September: This was a travel day. We said goodbye to the wonderful staff at The Hilton Cape Town and caught an early afternoon flight to Johannesburg. Here we stayed at the InterContinental Hotel at the airport in anticipation of a flight tomorrow.

Wednesday, 11 September: Today we flew to Kruger International Airport and picked up a rental car. We were on the road by 11:15AM and despite warnings about slow traffic due to construction on the N4 toll road (and Ed having to remember how to drive on the opposite side of the roadway) we arrived at Malalane early afternoon. We did our grocery shopping at a Spar Superstore and then bought wine & gin at Tops, a liquor store associated with Spar. We arrived at the Malalane Gate entrance at Kruger National Park at 2:19PM (yes, there was a time stamp on our entry). Wow, a new type of safari adventure begins!

En route to Berg-en-dal Camp, our home for the next five nights, we had our first wildlife encounter – seeing grazing Impala along side the roadway in Kruger. (We bet they knew where the safe territory ends/begins – i.e., Kruger). Once we reached the camp, we checked in at the registration desk and picked up keys to our bungalow. It was a spacious efficiency with its own private patio which would suit our needs perfectly. It was neat to be in a thatched-roof structure.

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We had nearby parking so we unloaded the car including the three giant shopping bags of recently purchased groceries, numerous five liter jugs of water, etc., etc. By the time we did this, it was about 4:00PM and we decided to drive to the nearby Matjulu Waterhole. On an aside, driving in Kruger is limited to 50KM/hour (or 30MPH) on paved roads. On unpaved roads, the maximum is 40KM (or 24MPH) but it’s very difficult to achieve that speed given road conditions – rutted, dusty, washboards, potholes, etc. So, even getting about 6KM away took us 20 minutes.

The drive was definitely worth it! As soon as we approached the waterhole, we found three White Rhino’s there! We spent about 30-45 minutes watching these massive creatures, including one calf. Wow! What an amazing way to begin this adventure!!

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We returned back to our bungalow at 5:15PM. While Lindy got us settled in, Ed went to the camp store to purchase an electrical adapter for South Africa (we hadn’t needed one thus far but we sure did now). When Ed returned, he prepared a wonderful dinner – tossed salad followed by green beans & pasta in a spicy olive oil & pecorino cheese sauce. We then enjoyed our meal while listening to music on the MP3 player we acquired for this trip. The music along with a nice South African Shiraz was a great way to end this first night in Kruger National Park. Then it was time to get some rest in anticipation of another early start.

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Thursday, 12 September: On our second morning in Kruger we got up early (indeed we did need an alarm clock) so that we were on the road by 7:30AM. Actually, the camp gate opens at 6:00AM and that had been our original intent but a late night enjoying music, the stars and celebrating our Rhino find meant we didn’t get to bed until quite late (~midnight). So, despite not being the first on the road, we headed out with maps in hand, binoculars and our camera.

The morning drive turned out to be a huge success! We initially took the Park’s paved H3 road to the north and had our first game viewing – a group of Kudu’s. Then, we left the paved track and went east on the S118. It turned out to be a great choice as we saw lots of grazing animals plus some Vervet Monkeys and…. another two Rhino’s foraging in a river bed! We then drove north on the S114, a terrible washboard road that was the worst we have ever experienced! We guess the animals didn’t like the setting either as we didn’t see any on this stretch of our travels. However, once we turned northwest on the H2-2, sightings began again. First, we came across some two Southern Ground Hornbills. These were big garish birds intent on eating in an area which had been ravaged by fires but was recovering with new grasses and seedlings. We later learned they are an endangered species so it was great that we came upon them. Then, a group of five Warthogs – including little babies – ran across the road in front of the car. A really big male warthog with huge, curved tusks led the group and then turned back to stare at us before he ran the whole group away from us. They were very, very wary but we did manage a couple of shots but nothing great.

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	A beautiful male Kudu
	A female Kudu (it was not found near the male Kudu but in another location)
	An Impala feeding with two Vervet Monkeys playing in the foreground
	A Yellow-Billed Hornbill in the top of a tree
	A view of the dry summer landscape of Kruger National Park from the H2-2
	A pair of Southern Ground Hornbills
	A closer look at this very large bird - a Southern Ground Hornbill
	If you look carefully, you may be able to spot the Warthog in the bush

As we approached the paved H3, we again stopped to photograph some beautiful Impala. We then took the H3 north to the Afsaal rest area. Since it was well after 10:30AM, we decided to head south on the H3 to return to Berg-en-dal. We just got to the intersection of the H3 and H2-2, when we spotted two giraffe. Wow! One was huge and the other much smaller. We can’t say for sure if it was a male/female pair or a mother/child pair but they were amazing! We haven’t seen any giraffe that large at any zoo or in our previous travels in Africa. Also on the H3 on our return, guess what… another Rhino! We got back to camp at about 12:00 and we were both ready for a long overdue stretch (remember, you can’t get out of your vehicle except in a camp or picnic area). We were in the cage (i.e., our car) while the animals were running free! It was another amazing self-touring safari that we truly enjoyed!

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Shortly after we got back to our bungalow, a group of baboons went through the area. We took a photograph of one female who stopped to eat an apple (we don’t know if it was given to her or it she took it from someone). All baboons/monkeys are considered to be pests in the camp as they steal food and/or any other items they can find. So the Park is working to remove these animals from its camps and is relocating them to alternate habitats.

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We spent the balance of the day relaxing on our patio listening to the sounds of African bird life, reviewing photographs, etc. In the evening we “clinked, clinked” a cold gin & tonic in celebration of another amazing day!

Friday, 13 September: Happy 13^th! Today we were on the road at 6:02AM and the Berg-en-dal Gate was open. We drove only a few kilometers on the paved S110 and our first sighting was a group of three Rhino’s. Wow!! We spent about 30 minutes trying to get a few photographs in the low light conditions. Once we were satisfied that we likely had one or two, we continued on our drive. We went only about another two kilometers and we spotted another group of three Rhino’s – these being on the opposite side of the road. We were able to get some really nice photographs of this group because we had much better lighting. It was simply amazing to see two separate groups in close proximity. As we continued on we came across two large herds of Impala, one being just as the S110 met with the paved H3.

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We drove north on the H3 and didn’t come across any game. So, we then went west on S114, an unpaved road. There was a lot of evidence of Elephant and Rhino activity (i.e., fresh dung) but we didn’t see anything other than Helmeted Guinea Fowl. So, we decided to drive northwest on the S121, again another unpaved road. The first game we came upon was a huge herd of Impala. Then, a bit further down the road we came across a group of Kudu. Most were female but there was one huge, beautiful buck. After photographing these unusual creatures we continued on the S121. About two kilometers before it met the H3, we caught a glimpse of two elephants foraging in some dense underbrush. We stopped to photograph them and then, amazingly, a female and her calf walked out about ten yards in front of the car. The mother wasn’t put off by us so she and her calf ate while we watched. We ultimately backed up the car into a slightly different spot to get even a better look at these beautiful mammals. We were so amazed and awed to see these gentle giants (at least this female and her baby) “up close and personal”.

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By now it was almost 9:00AM and we reached the H3 a few minutes later. We decided to return on it south to Berg-en-dal Camp. En route we once again saw Kudu, Impala and more Helmeted Guinea Fowl. When we returned to the camp, we went to the information center to make a couple of inquiries. Then, we returned back to our bungalow to gather up some school supplies to give to the camp management to distribute. It was great to see lots of school children visiting the Park as part of their school studies and we learned that they were given free admission and informational tours.

After dropping these items off, we walked to the Berg-en-dal Dam, a man-made dam on the Matjulu River set just outside the camp compound. Interestingly, we were the ones “in the cage” as we were separated from the area by an electrified fence while the animals patronizing this water source were able to go about freely on both sides of the dammed river. It was a great treat and a real surprise for us to see crocodile and turtles just a few feet away from us. Again, another Wow!

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In the early afternoon, we walked back to Berg-en-dal Dam even though we had little expectation of seeing game during the heat of the day. We first stopped at the camp store to buy a liter of cold Coke Zero to enjoy. As soon as we approached the lower area of the dam, we saw two small Chobe (or Northern) Bushbuck. They were foraging and drinking – the latter being done only after carefully observing what the nearby crocodiles were doing. We also observed a similar behavior when watching a family of ducks. We decided to take a rest on a bench a bit further upstream. When we got back up, we found a family of Waterbuck had come to drink too. There was a large male, a female and three calves. Quite a big group! Then, our final sighting was another surprise – a huge hippo. Another huge Wow! We are amazed at the abundance of wildlife in and around Berg-en-dal with some of it literally being just a few yards beyond the camp!

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	A tiny Chobe
	The Chobe risks a drink despite the crocodiles
	This Crocodile looks like it's smiling
	A male Waterbuck with his harem
	A close-up of the male Waterbuck
	In this group photograph, you can see the Waterbuck each have a white circle on the rump
	If you look carefully, you'll see a Hippo's eyes & ears in the water

Our final excursion of the day was to take a sunset drive offered by the camp. This is one of the optional extras (like walks and braai (South African equivalent for barbeque)). The drive was done in a camp vehicle (which held 21 guests and was full). We left camp promptly at 4:30PM. Almost immediately upon exiting the camp, we came across a group of six Rhino. We had a different viewing experience since we were seated much higher than we are when Ed is driving our car. Our driver, Souley, spotted a giraffe on the horizon. Thanks to Ed’s new Nikon camera and being on the same side of the vehicle as the giraffe, Ed got some great shots. Then, Souley spotted two bachelor elephants and they were huge. Despite being well-off the roadway, we could see how much larger each of them was in comparison to the female elephant and calf we found yesterday. These sightings all occurred on the S110 road from our camp to the H3 roadway – some 10 kilometers. Again, amazing! Once on the H3, we stopped while crossing the Matjulu River and found Rhino on the west side and Buffalo on the east side. It was our first time to see a Buffalo here and luckily it again was on our side of the vehicle. Despite the fading light (it was now about 6:15PM), we did manage one picture.

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Once we left the H3, the drive took the identical roads we had used for our morning circuit (the S114 and S121). Talk about coincidence! Throughout the balance of the drive, we had to use spotlights and look for the reflection of the animals’ eyes to find them. Ed had the pleasure (not!) of holding one of those spotlights for the remaining one hour journey. While we didn’t get any photographs, we did have the pleasure of seeing a Hyena, a Civit, a Duiker and a Steenbok. The Duiker and Steenbok are antelope-like grazers – active both during the day and night – while the Civit is a nocturnal creature that looks like a cross between a raccoon and a cat (our best description).

We returned to camp at 7:30PM. Wow, it was a long day! Ed quickly prepared a cocktail to “salute” the day and then we enjoyed dinner before going to bed in anticipation of a 4:30AM wake-up.

Saturday, 14 September: We were up at 4:30AM in anticipation of our 5:30AM departure for a morning walk. We met our guides, Moss and Moozee, at the information center and then our group of eight individuals was driven outside the camp to begin our walk in the bush. It truly was a unique feeling to be walking along the same paths used by the animals. Both guides carried a loaded 458 bolt-action rifle so there was a lot of comfort there but…. We were given very specific instructions as to how to stay together, what signals would be used (we weren’t to talk except at certain locations), etc., etc.

Moss and Moozee kept up a brisk pace and it paid off well. We came upon two groups of White Rhinos. The first didn’t get our scent initially so we were able to get quite close for photographs. The second group took off fairly quickly. Then, we stumbled upon a Black Rhino. These creatures are known for their terrible temperament and willingness to charge and kill humans. So, Moss and Moozee allowed a quick photograph from a distance and then we had to walk away from the area carefully to avoid arousing the Black Rhino. After we had successfully accomplished that task, we all took a break on a granite outcrop. The guides had brought along some light snacks and juice. On our return hike, we came across a group of Warthogs. They quickly ran away so there was no chance for a photograph. We did take a photograph of a poisonous centipede. Hopefully, we won’t run into any of those again. We returned back to camp at 8:30AM. The walk was truly a great experience and something we would encourage others to try. We were really taken back that we were there on the same turf as the animals and are grateful to the South African Parks for allowing such excursions to take place.

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We made a quick stop at the Berg-en-dal Dam and the Hippo was once again there (no photo’s this trip). Then we returned to our bungalow for some “R&R” time before an afternoon drive. We left the camp at 3:30PM and there was lots of animal activity. First, there were numerous Kudu which were crossing the road. Then, we came across a group of elephants. We were busy taking photographs of a female elephant (with a broken tusk) and her baby when three other members of the group crossed behind the car. Since they didn’t have their ears back and showed no aggressive behavior, we continued to observe the mother and her offspring. We continued along the S110 until it reached the H3. We drove across the Matjulu River but no animals were drinking there. We continued a bit further to the gravel S110 – the back road to the Matjulu Waterhole and ultimately Berg-en-dal Camp. We only drove a few kilometers before turning back. We were both tired and we knew we would drive that road tomorrow so it was time to call it a night. As we retraced our route, there were again no animals on the Matjulu River Bridge. However, we did have one more treat. Just as left the H3 onto the paved S110 road, there was a huge bull Rhino all alone. He was massive and we got some great shots. So, it was the icing on the cake for today.

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Sunday, 15 September: On this our final day at Berg-en-dal Camp, we did the requisite early morning get-up so that we were at the Camp’s gate at 6:02AM. We drove first to the Matjulu Waterhole but there were no animals there. We parked for about 15 minutes but then decided we might do better finding animals along the roadside. It turned out to be the correct decision.

We left the waterhole and drove a short distance to reach the unpaved S110 which goes east only (the paved S110 road is on the other side of the Matjulu River and is the road we use to access Berg-en-dal Camp). In just a few kilometers we spotted two Rhino but they were too far off the roadway to photograph. We came across a small group of Kudu and then two groups of Baboons. There was a large male being groomed by another smaller animal and we were able to watch them for quite a long time. Then we continued and came upon another group of Kudu and, of course, a bit further a group of Impala.

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When we reached the H3, we drove south and guess what…. more Baboons! This was a large troupe that actually blocked the roadway for several minutes as they slowly made their way across it. It was fun to watch the youngsters play and wrestle with one another. Then, we actually got to photograph a Steenbok (we had seen one on our night drive)! They are not often spotted as they very small and hide in the grasses.

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When we turned east on the paved S110, we only went about a kilometer when we came across a large number of cars parked on the roadway. A leaving car told us there was a leopard asleep in a tree. Another big Wow! We pulled over and took a few photographs. Ed then repositioned the car when two cars towing campers moved out. From here we were able to get some shots which included the leopard’s head. What a treat to see this huge creature lounging in a tree! A short distance beyond the leopard there was a small herd of elephants. Then, a bit further down the road we found a giraffe.

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By now it was 9:00AM and it was getting warm. We returned to Berg-en-dal and stopped at the information area to check on the day’s sightings. We also walked the area near the dam and, yes, the Hippo was still there. However, there was no other game.

As we returned to our bungalow we realized that in our 4.5 days of actively pursuing game (via game drives and walks) we had seen four of the “Big Five” – Rhino, Elephant, Leopard, Buffalo – all except the Lion. That’s pretty amazing!! We saw everything from the window of our Toyota Corolla except for the Buffalo which we saw on our sunset drive. We also had the thrill of seeing Rhino – Black and White – on our morning walk!! We still have 14 nights to enjoy in Kruger National Park so we’re certain that at least one Lion will be seen!

Monday, 16 September: We left Berg-en-dal Camp when the 6:00AM gate opened because thisprimarily was a travel day – transiting from Berg-en-dal Camp to Skukuza Camp. However, it wasn’t a direct drive through the Park. Instead, we had to return to the Kruger Airport to turn in our rental car and pick up a car for the balance of our time in the Park (and then our subsequent stay at lodges in game preserves abutting Kruger). En route we saw a huge bull Elephant – our farewell friend at Berg-en-dal.

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Once back in civilization, we stopped again at the Spar in Malalane to pick up more food stuffs, especially fresh items. Despite construction on the N4, we arrived at Kruger International Airport at 9:15AM. We went inside without unloading and the Budget agent, Neil, who had done our original rental, said we could continue on with our Toyota Corolla for the next 30 days. Yeah! It would have been a chore to unload the entire back seat of groceries, water, etc. not to mention our full trunk. So, we were out of the airport by 10:00AM and on our way to the Paul Kruger Gate.

We arrived back at Kruger National Park shortly before noon. We saw the “Meet & Greet” Kudu and Impala. Then, we saw our first Bush Pigs – interesting creatures with Mohawk-like hairdo’s and side burns that stick out. Further along the H11 we crossed the Sabie River and to our thrill we saw a male and female Buffalo. We watched them browse for a bit and then something (not us) startled them. That’s when we were able to get some really nice photographs as they moved out of the deep grass and turned their heads in our direction.

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We actually arrived early at the Skukuza Camp, our home for the next four nights. It was too early to check-in so we spent about an hour walking around the restaurant, shop, etc. until we picked up our key at 1:45PM. Our cabin was a round building with a screened porch which was the kitchen/dining area. Then there was a separate bedroom and bath area with air conditioning. Interesting concept – cooking outside your living quarters – especially when it’s hot outside and the a/c feels really nice.

At 4:30PM, we went for a drive south on the H3 (the road that eventually leads to Berg-en-dal). We went about 8KM to Nhlanganeni Waterhole. On our way there, we came across a lone Giraffe. Then, our timing for arrival at the waterhole was perfect because a female elephant and her calf were drinking. It was our first time on the trip to see that trunk sucking up loads of water. At 5:15PM we began the trek back to Skukuza so that we would arrive before the 6:00PM gate closing. We came upon two male Warthogs a short distance off the road. They actually stayed near us and we were able to get some great shots. Our final sighting was a really big male giraffe. Again, another amazing drive!

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Tuesday, 17 September: We made an all day event of driving from Skukuza to the Lower Sabie Rest Camp and return via the H4-1 to the east and south. En route we made a small detour on the S79 to ride for a few kilometers very close to the Sabie River. The first creature we saw was a Spotted Hyena. Unfortunately, it was on the move so we didn’t get a good photograph. We next came across a sole male Baboon. We were able to turn off the car and sit very near to him. Further along the road we came across a group of female Baboons with infants. It was great to watch their interactions and grooming. We also got our first picture of an African Fish-Eagle in a tree near the river.

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	A view of the Sabie River
	A lone Hyena on the move
	We got so close to this Baboon
	Another view of this handsome fellow
	This female Baboon is grooming her baby
	A small juvenile looks on during the grooming process
	Another large Giraffe
	This is a majestic African Fish Eagle

We went into the Nkhulu Picnic Area about one-third of the way so we could get out and stretch. These stops have small stores/deli’s so Lindy purchased a coffee and some homemade cookies. We no sooner sat down on a bench when a Vervet Monkey tried to grab the cookies. Now we know firsthand why the Park is attempting to keep them out of the camps! We continued our drive stopping next at a small lake just outside of Lower Sabie. Here we found Buffalo, Hippos in the water and some of the Park’s larger birds – Yellow-Billed Storks doing a courtship ritual plus a Marabou Stork.

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We drove on to the Lower Sabie Rest Camp and enjoyed a picnic lunch there. We saw two creatures at the Camp itself – one huge lizard and the other a colorful lizard. Afterwards, it was time to reverse our drive to return back to Skukuza. We once again stopped at the small lake and this time we saw a huge Crocodile! Then, to our amazement, as we drove along the Sabie River we saw our first herd! It was a group of Buffalo along with Zebra. Their numbers were amazing and we later learned that the Zebra like to herd with the Buffalo for safety. The Zebra were the first we encountered in the Park. Perhaps they too will become an everyday occurrence like the Impala but that first sighting is always special!

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	This was a two foot lizard
	This lizard wasn't as long but it's very colorful
	This is definitely a large Crocodile
	Our first view of a large herd of animals - this one being Buffalo & Zebra
	A closer look at a group of the Buffalo enjoying the water
	With this long distance view, you can see this is a truly huge herd
	Here's a large group of Zebra within the even larger herd
	A large male Kudu we spotted after photographing the herd
	And guess what, another Rhino!

After watching the herd animals drink, we continued on our way. We then had to stop as a group of elephants was crossing the road to drink from the Sabie. Traffic stopped in both directions for about 10 minutes as the large mammals made their way across. When we finished photographing the elephants, we came upon more giraffes. We again enjoyed a very full and interesting day in Kruger National Park.

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Wednesday, 18 September: Our game sighting today was another all day event. We made a circular route first going south on the H3 then northeast on the S21 and ending on the H4-1. Our first photograph was taken in Skukuza Camp when we came across two Warthogs enjoying breakfast. Then, we were out in the wilds. We did see a Rhino in the distance but spotting was a bit slim initially. We made a stop at the Renosterkoppies Waterhole and saw a Blue Wildebeest – our first! Also nearby was a Red-Billed Hornbill, always a treat to see!

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Our drive continued and we came across a small pool of water (no signage) where we had our first glimpse of two beautiful Saddle-Billed Stork. They were quite large and very stunning. What was also amazing was that their joints hinge differently than ours. When one of the birds was sitting, its leg was bent in front of its “knee”. Amazing!

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As we continued, we came across a small group of Wildebeest grazing. We stopped at Nwatimhiri Waterhole to see what might be in need of water and found two Giraffe and a Warthog. Given the heat, we decided to focus on the next waterhole, Mhlupheka Waterhole. It paid off as we found a group of elephants there – always a pleasure to watch them and a great way to end our day!

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	These Wildebeest were enjoying grazing on the long grass
	These two Giraffe found a green, leafy tree from which to enjoy eating
	Here's another Giraffe in the group
	Another Warthog
	A group of Elephants at Mhlupheka Waterhole
	A close-up of two group members
	Look carefully in the water and you'll see that there are Hippo in the water near the Elephants

Thursday, 19 September: We had an early 4:30AM wake-up so we could once again search for game in the company of two armed guides. Our walk was not at the brisk pace we had enjoyed on our previous walk. A group of four women, one being extremely obese, mistakenly believed we were going birding in the flats. She didn’t speak up with any issues when asked by the guides so they correctly assumed she might be “light on her feet.” Well, she had a very tough time but she did complete the walk. One of the guides basically stayed back with her so that the rest of the group had a chance to do some gaming. It paid off because we all got to enjoy a close-up view of a White Rhino. We were downwind of it so the Rhino wasn’t aware of our presence. Again, it’s a wonderful experience to be walking the same trails as the animals do and not be in our “cage” – the Toyota Corolla (or in the case, the Camp’s gaming vehicle).

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	Ranger Carel, our guide, in a "Rhino Toilet" - by sharing an area for bathroom use, Rhinos exchange information about others in the area based on their respective scents
	During our walk we discover that Elephant have dug to a water source
	This shiny portion of this stub is used by animals to dislodge ticks
	Our quest - a Rhino seen and photographed on foot!
	Yes, we too posed in the "Rhino Toilet" (and we washed our shoes & clothing afterwards!)

On the way back to Camp, a vehicle waved our guides down and told them that a lion had been spotted in the rocks near camp. The guys took us there so we could actually see the Lion! Hey, we did accomplish seeing “The Big Five” in our first trip to Kruger!

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We took an evening drive making a circular loop on the H4-1 and then over the Sabie River on the H12 and returning back to camp via the H1-2. The area was thriving with game at or near the river. Of particular mention, we saw a beautiful Male Giraffe and a Hippo out of the water. We also saw three herds of elephants – one crossing the Sabie River; a second herd further down on the Sabie from the H1-2; and we drove through a group on both sides of the road on the H1-2. Amazing! We also got a close-up view of two Zebra on H12. It was definitely an exciting and rewarding day in Kruger.

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	This Giraffe is huge!
	Amazing, a Hippo out of water!
	Here's another view as the Hippo is now working towards us
	Our first encounter with a small Elephant herd
	A close-up of a mother Elephant & her calf
	This Zebra wasn't shy at all
	This Zebra wasn't shy either
	One of the Elephants we passed near the road

Friday, 20 September: We packed up our gear (including food stuffs) as we moved from Skukuza Rest Camp to the Satara Rest Camp. Instead of taking a direct route, we decided to first return to the Lower Sabie in the south before proceeding north to reach Satara. As we passed the Sabie River near the bridge on the H2, we saw a beautiful Goliath Heron. It was very tall and majestic. Then, a bit further along the road we had to stop as a group of Buffalo crossed the road to reach the Sabie River. We took a break to stretch our legs at the Nkhulu Picnic Area.

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Our timing worked out well because we subsequently managed to spot a Leopard in the rocks. Wow, it was gorgeous! It was also a real treat to see one again! Later we saw a tiny antelope – a Steenbok. It’s amazing these little animals can survive since they are solitary.

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As the day continued it got very hot with the temperature at 100 degrees Fahrenheit. We turned north on H10 to H1-3. By this time, most of the animals that graze or browse were more interested in finding shade than eating. We had fun watching a group of Waterbuck try to eek out some shade from a small tree. It was even more interesting when the lone male of the group moved everyone else out of the area. It was then that we noticed he had one deformed horn. Oh well, it didn’t stop him from having a nice harem!

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We made a stop at a rest area on Orphen Dam where we were once again able to get out of the car. We got another treat – seeing Hippo out of water! As we continued, we stopped at Mazitha Dam to watch a group of elephants. They weren’t drinking but were instead playing in the water – sometimes even totally emerging their bodies in it. Guess that’s one way to cool off quickly. At our final stop – Kumana Dam – we got to see Giraffes drinking. It’s amazing how wary they are since they have to really spread their legs to their sides to reach the water. Obviously, they are very vulnerable in this awkward position. It was also interesting to see how many species will visit a water source at the same time as long as no predators are spotted. Again, we enjoyed a very full and rewarding day.

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	The scene at Orphen Dam
	A Hippo out of the water
	This Hippo, enjoying some time in the sun, is being groomed by Ox Picker birds
	Elephants cooling off
	Giraffes at the water at the dam
	This Giraffe is being groomed by Ox Picker birds before it drinks
	It's a long way down for a Giraffe to grab a drink

Upon our arrival at Satara, we found our new home to be a bit strange. The kitchen was totally outdoors with no netting other than a huge metal cage around the refrigerator. Everything was done outside and remember it’s now near 103 degrees! Every other cabin in view had a huge BBQ (Braai) going with everyone seated outside. We choose to take chairs indoors and enjoy a delicious pasta (with green beans in red sauce) while using the air conditioning. Different strokes for different folks!

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Saturday, 21 September: We awoke to a very different day in Kruger. It was very windy and the sky was dark and the temperature stayed in the mid-60 degrees Fahrenheit for the entire day. It was a drastic weather change. We got an early start and perhaps because of the dark skies, we were able to see a Wild African Cat. These typically are nocturnal animals so it was a real treat! Our day began by traveling west on the H7. We saw two herds of Buffalo plus a Wildebeest. Then, at a stop at Nsemani Waterhole we found Hippo enjoying the water. When then drove North on the unpaved S40 and saw lots of grazers and/or browsers – Steenbok, Giraffe, Kudu and Zebra.

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After a quick break at the Timbavati Picnic Area, we went east on the S127 and discovered a huge male elephant eating near the road. We actually have a sequence of photographs during which he ultimately destroyed the bush by pushing it over so he could finish his meal. We next went south on H1-4 to make a loop back to Satara. En route we were able to photograph a female Lion lying on ground. Since we were passing by our camp, we stopped at the Satara store to buy a cold drink (coffee would have been preferable but it wasn’t available).

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Our drive continued south on H1-4 to H6. From there we drove east and saw many Wildebeest and Zebra. Two Cheetahs were spotted by a group of cars in front of ours but we didn’t see those beautiful creatures. We’re still hopeful that we will at a future time. We did spot one Lion on the return ride back on the H6 but it never turned to face us so no photographs. Once on the H1-4 en route back to Satara, we saw our first Bateleur Eagle. It was a nice ending to a very productive gaming day.

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Sunday, 22 September: On this “World Rhino Day” we traveled from Satara to Mopani Rest Camp, our home for the next three nights. We began the journey at 7:30AM heading north on the H1-4 to the Letaba Rest Camp. En route, we saw the “usual suspects” (i.e., Impala, Zebra, Wildebeest, Giraffe, etc.). However, we especially enjoyed seeing a very large Bull Elephant. Then, a true treat… our first viewing of a Rhino in the middle section of Kruger! It couldn’t have happened on a better day – World Rhino Day.

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When we drove along the Olifants River, we came across huge numbers of Hippo out of the water. It was a cold and windy day like yesterday so perhaps the water was too cold or they wanted more food. Anyway, we didn’t see any Hippo actually in the water which was a bit different on our hotter days in Kruger. We took a break at Letaba and then continued our trek north on what was now the H1-5. The terrain changed to a much drier environment. There was dried grass, small scrub trees and only a large tree here or there. We saw a mother Elephant and her baby grazing near the road but after that sighting it was very quiet. Our only other encounter was seeing a Bateleur Eagle when we took an unpaved loop road.

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We arrived at Mopani and moved into our new home. We’re now discovering that having the kitchen indoors is more of a novelty than it being outdoors. Interestingly, there was no screen around the porch or any type of lock or cage around the refrigerator. So, we’re assuming there are no baboons or monkeys in this area. However, since it was cold we choose to enjoy our evening cocktail and meal indoors with the heater turned on (amazing that just two days ago we did so to enjoy the A/C).

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Monday, 23 September: We left Mopani Camp at 7:30AM for a morning drive. As we left the compound, there was a group of Buffalo grazing by the roadside. When we met the H1-6, we turned south and subsequently took the S146 southwest to Stapelkop Dam. However, after only a few kilometers the rain started to fall. Not knowing how long or how hard it was going to rain, we decided we should return to a paved road. We turned back and made a short stop at the Pioneer Dam bird hide. Using information provided at the hide we were able to identify some birds we had previously photographed. However, we didn’t see any birds come to the area. We returned to the paved H1-6 and went North past Mopani Camp as the rain continued. We saw only scattered groups of Buffalo and Impala (and a squirrel) as far as mammals go. We did stop to observe several eagles and hawks. Interestingly, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. It is at this latitude that the sun’s rays strike the earth vertically at or about 12:00 noon on 21 December, marking the beginning of summer in the Southern Hemisphere. We returned back to camp at 12:00 and stayed there until 4:00PM when we went out again. As we drove north, the herds of Buffalo and Impala we saw were much larger. Then, as we passed the Bowerskop Waterhole, we finally saw a large variety of animals. They weren’t drinking but instead were feeding on green grasses nearby. They included an elephant, Zebra, Buffalo and a lone Wildebeest. Finally, we know there are more mammals in the area! Afterwards we continued north but didn’t come across anything other than ground birds like Guinea Fowl and Grouse. So, we returned back to camp shortly before the gate closed. Gaming in this area is definitely more challenging but still rewarding.

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Tuesday, 24 September: Our drive today began the same as the previous day in that we headed south on the H1-6. Instead of trying to go to the dam, we decided to try the Shengololo Loop road to cover more territory. Initially game viewing was non-existent. The day had started out cool but continued to get progressively warmer as the sun got higher in the sky. We did manage to photograph a few birds but no mammals. Finally, about mid-way through the loop, there was a large male elephant feeding near the road. He was massive! We watched him for a long time and were surprised to see him “dirt bathing” – that is, picking up dirt with his trunk and blowing it over his body. We guess it helps with relief from the sun, bugs, etc. His food was primarily dried grass and sticks – not the lush greenery enjoyed by his relatives in the south.

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As we continued on the loop road, we came to the Uitspan Waterhole. Here we saw an Impala herd and four Warthogs. All the animals spent more time grazing than actually drinking as there was plenty of green grass near the waterhole. We took a break and enjoyed our breakfast in the car while watching the animals. It was actually quite a nice setting! As we left the waterhole, we came across a small herd of Zebra. We assumed they too were headed for the waterhole. We ultimately returned to the H1-6 and began our drive south to Mopani Camp. We stopped at the Eendrag Waterhole and Ed spotted two crocodile sunning on the bank. He was able to get some great shots, especially of the jaw and teeth of one of these big creatures.

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Our final sighting for the day was at the Bowerskop Waterhole. We were able to photograph a Kori Bustard. It is one of the world’s heaviest flying birds. It was at least four feet tall and had a very large body. They can weigh more than 25 lbs. Amazing! The Kori Bustard is one of Kruger’s “Big Six” of birds. So, we’ve now seen three of the six – this Kori Bustard, the Ground Hornbill and the Saddle-Billed Stork. It was the perfect way to end this day’s safari!

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We returned back to Mopani and it was definitely time for the air conditioning! Ed prepared another delicious dinner beginning with a salad followed by pasta with green beans in red sauce. Yummy!

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Wednesday, 25 September: This morning we repacked up our belongings and food stuffs in anticipation of our move to Bateleur Bushveld Camp, the northernmost camp we’ll be staying at in Kruger. Bateleur is the oldest of the Bushveld Camps. These camps are more individualized with fewer cottages and less amenities (i.e., no swimming pool or laundry) so you do really feel like you’re in the bush.

We left Mopani at 9:00AM and began our drive on the H1-6. We first saw a Tawny Eagle on a nest. We later learned that it was a likely returning to a previous nest and rebuilding it. Later we came across our first Giraffe in this Northern part of Kruger National Park. We got a quick glimpse of a Grysbok running across the road. It’s a small creature that looks like either an overgrown rabbit or mini Kangaroo (our best description).

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We made a brief stop at a pool near Eendrag and once again saw a crocodile out of water. We drove a few kilometers off the H1-6 to have lunch at the Uitspan Waterhole. It was an interesting to watch the animals there graze and/or drink. There was a lone Wildebeest, two herds of Zebra and two herds of Impala visiting the spot while we sat observing.

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Near 12:00PM, we turned off H1-6 for a 20 km ride to Bateleur Bush Camp on unpaved roads. As we were nearing a scenic outlook called Red Rocks, a car flagged us down to say that a Leopard had been spotted sleeping near a waterhole. So, we immediately went to the area and first discovered you could get out of the car. Yeah; it’s always good to get a nice stretch. This was allowed because the outlook is high above the waterhole with a sheer wall immediately beneath it. So, you’re away from any game and/or predators using that water source. In a few moments we located the Leopard in the shade of a huge rock. Again, simply amazing! We stayed to watch it for about 30 minutes but it was enjoying the cools spot it had found and wasn’t interested in doing anything other than sleeping. Nevertheless, it was still a treat to see such a beautiful creature. We then continued to the Camp and passed another Giraffe foraging near the road.

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	The Leopard is located at the lower right on the rocks
	Ed zoomed in to get a photograph of the Leopard; the yellow in the foreground is a flowering plant
	This view of the Leopard doesn't have the flowering plant but the Leopard's face is somewhat hidden in the greenery and shade it found
	Here's a few of the Red Rocks pull-out

We arrived at Bateleur, our home for next four nights in mid-afternoon. We spoke with Thimbe at Reception and asked if there were any schools in the area where we could donate some pencils, erasers, pens, etc. Thimbe told us that the children of South African National Parks workers go to a boarding school near Phalaborwa Gate during the week but come home each Friday. After we got settled into our lovely cottage, we took the balance of our school supplies and put them in gift bags for children. We then returned to Reception where Thimbe graciously accepted these items and said she would get them to the children, especially those of the workers at Bateleur.

By the way, Bateleur only has seven guest cottages. Because we didn’t realize how far in advance bookings must be made, we got a three bedroom accommodation. Again, the kitchen was outdoors. So, we closed off two bedrooms to make it easier to keep the place clean and air-conditioned. As we drove farther north, it was definitely heating up.

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At about 4:00PM, we went for a drive. We began at one of two locations reserved for Bateleur overnight guests – Rooisbosrand Dam. It actually is a huge body of water. We were able to see some Hippos – actually quite a few – but they were far away. So, we decided to visit the second location for Bateleur guests – Silvervis Waterhole. As soon as we arrived, we saw a female Elephant and her calf plus an adolescent male. The mother and baby left and initially the young male continued feeding. Then, he suddenly made a bugling noise with his trunk and made a short charge toward the car. Ed had kept the engine running so he threw the car into reverse and backed up the road to show we recognized his territory. That stopped any further confrontation and the Elephant continued on his way into the brush. Wow, it was our first experience with any aggression from an Elephant. It was exciting but a little bit too exciting. After that encounter, we headed back to the Camp to enjoy the sounds of the birds.

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Thursday, 26 September: We got up early and were out by about 7:00AM on the same road we used to access the camp. Within the first two-three kilometers, we saw our first Nyala. They are really large antelopes and they were very shy so that started into the brush as soon as they saw us. We were able to get a photograph (not very good but at least a memory). We continued on our unpaved road and came across Giraffe at three different spots. We also saw two small groups of Zebra. However, unlike their southern kin, these animals were very wary and moved away as soon as we stopped the car. It definitely makes photography more challenging. We stopped at the Red Rocks outlook for a stretch but no signs of the previous day’s Leopard or any other creatures. Once we reached the paved H1-6, we went north of the Shingwedzi Rest Camp. There we saw some of the terrible damage which occurred due to severe flooding in Kruger in January.

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After taking our break, we drove back south and we were amazed and awed to see two Ostrich – the first we’ve seen in Kruger. They too were a bit wary but we did manage some good photographs of them. We turned off the paved road and began the rough 20 kilometer trek back to Camp. We again stopped at Red Rocks to have a quick snack but no animals were present.

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Just before reaching Bateleur, we decided to once again drive to the Silvervis Waterhole. This time we were able to go further into the area (no angry Elephant) and we got to an area used by Hippos. We saw a large group, including a mother and her baby. It was really nice. As we turned around and began to leave the area, we saw a group of Elephants off to our left. Almost immediately, we saw other Elephants crossing the road in front of us to join that group. These Elephants were large females with babies. We had to reverse the car twice when the larger females would stop in the road and glare at us. When the final group came across, the last individual was a very large female. She too stopped and then took a couple of steps towards us. We did the obligatory reverse and she continued on her way. Whew! Another interesting encounter!

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When we returned to Bateleur, we went into Reception and met Paul, the Duty Manager and Guide for the Camp. We told him about our encounters at Silvervis and he explained that we truly are in the bush and the elephants are not accustomed to visitors in the same way they are in the more frequently visited areas of Kruger. Paul said that the young Elephant who charged would probably not have continued but we had been wise to show the Elephant that it was in control by us backing away. With regard to our encounter today, he said that the final female Elephant was likely “Nana” – an old female who walks at the end of the group since she’s slower but she also makes sure the group stays together. Her message to us: “We don’t like that noisy machine (our car), we like our privacy and please minimize your time here.” Okay, now we know.

We took our first evening drive in Kruger at Bateleur. Paul was our guide and he too had his 458 bolt-action rifle. It was our first ride (not a walk) where the guide had a weapon. Paul’s rifle was held in a rack on the top of the dashboard so it stayed in the vehicle in the bumpy terrain and also was close at hand. We were joined by an enthusiastic family from South Africa who came equipped with extra flashlights (“torches” in their words) to assist in the hunt for “glowing eyes.” Although the ride was supposed to be two hours long, Paul took us much farther to see some great sights and we didn’t get back to camp until 9:30PM.

We began seeing animals as soon as we left the camp. Photography is very difficult during a night drive so we didn’t get photographs of everything we encountered. And, we definitely encountered many, many creatures. We began by seeing small mammals such as Scrub Hares and Spring Hares. Then, we saw a Grysbok, a small nocturnal antelope. There were lots of herds of Impala, some sleeping while others stood watch until it was their turn for sleep. Paul said these “look-outs” let the others know if a predator approaches. We also saw a large Owl. The highlight of the evening was Paul taking us to a location frequented by Hyena. There we came across a pair of Hyena and their cubs. We thought they would run away but instead they were curious. So curious, in fact, that they would try to smell the tires of the jeep. Paul warned us that their jaws can easily puncture a tire so he had to turn the vehicle on a couple of times so as to startle the Hyena – especially the pups – to move back. We sat there for about 10-15 minutes. It was simply amazing! The female Hyena actually let us watch while one of her pups nursed from her. Again, amazing! Paul said he thought that the Hyena had recently eaten since their bellies were a bit distended.

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After the Hyena sighting, we returned to camp backtracking on our original route. We continued to spot many small antelope and Impala. Paul made a quick diversion near camp to go to the waterhole that sits directly outside of the compound. Here he found three Buffalo, one of which had been recently attacked by a lion based on the wounds it bore. Throughout the course of the drive we had to be quiet and not disturb the animals. However, when we were able to stop and turn off the motor, Paul provided a great deal of information about the animals we had seen, their footprints, specific habits, etc., etc. It was truly an amazing and spectacular evening – one we will never forget!

Paul dropped us and our travel companions off near our respective cabins. Ed then prepared our gin & tonic and we gave thanks to Paul for the incredible adventure into Kruger National Park in the dark. Afterwards, we enjoyed some leftover pasta we had saved for a late-night dinner.

Friday, 27 September: After our previous late-night dinner that ended at about 11:30PM, we didn’t get an early start at gate opening. Instead, we left camp 8:00AM. We took the camp road out and first went to a scenic spot with a distant view of the Shengwedzi River. The area allowed visitors to get out of the car and it had some unique picnic tables. Afterwards, we decided to take the Shengwedzi Loop to reach Red Rocks. The road itself was in really good condition (for an unpaved road) and made the driving a bit easier. Also, there was lots of vegetation as we crossed over the Shengwedzi River so there was a lot of food available for browsers/grazers (and thus for those animals that eat them). There also were large trees which provided shade as the day began to heat up. We saw more Impala grazing here than anywhere else in the northern section of the Park. Amazingly, at one pull-out Ed spotted a Grysbok, the same nocturnal animal we had seen the previous night. We were able to get a quick shot of it before it headed for cover.

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When we reached Red Rocks, we stopped to stretch and see what was at the waterhole below. There were Waterbuck and Impala drinking there as well as several Vervet Monkey. We knew no predators were nearby. We returned home retracing our original route. We encountered the same species but also found two Elephants that had been rolling in the mud. The larger one had beautiful tusks but didn’t want to come out of the brush. The other crossed the road behind the car. Thankfully there was nothing aggressive about these two. We returned to camp early afternoon and relaxed there until our “Sunset Drive” with Paul.

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When we began our Sunset Drive at 5:00PM it was very hot. Paul suggested that we (our group of four plus him) begin our afternoon at Rooisbosrand Dam. En route, we saw a Crested Barbet on the drive. Once at the Dam, we took a walk (with Paul having his rifle in hand) and watched the sun set over the water. We learned that the dam was the only thing that saved Bateleur from the severe flooding in January. The water went over it but thankfully the dam didn’t breach. While there we saw Crocodile and also a row between two male Hippo. Paul explained one had gotten too close to another’s territory but it wanted to get cool and the other finally tolerated it.

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When we returned to the jeep, it was almost dark as it was now 6:00PM. So, we began our trek in search for more animals. As we were driving, we saw lots of Scrub Hare. Then, we enjoyed a real treat – we saw a Honey Badger crossing the road. Paul said it was very rare to see in this area. As always, we saw antelope – small Steenbok and Impala. Then, we went to see if anything was at the Silvervis Waterhole. As soon as we arrived there, Paul got very excited and showed us that a Leopard had been there. Its tracks were on top of all the car tracks. So, Paul drove around the area and then stopped, turned off the car and lights and began making calls. We then drove back to our initial area with lights on and there it was – the Leopard had come to Paul’s calls. How incredible! The Leopard didn’t run away from us or the lights. It was about 15 meters away and we were able to see how beautiful it was. Paul guessed it to be about 8 years old based on its size. Simply amazing! After we all had opportunities for lots of photographs, Paul said we should go and let the Leopard get back to its routine. We continued to spot small animals on the way back to camp, we but the highlight of the drive was definitely the thrill of seeing the Leopard. We returned at 7:45PM after another amazing evening in Kruger!

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Saturday, 28 September: We began our day at the bird hide and stayed there from 6:30A – 7:00A. There were lots of small birds nearby but no large animals came to the nearby waterhole. So we then decided to drive to the nearby Shingwedzi River. Once there we saw two beautiful Kudu. Then we saw a huge Eagle Owl. While we were busy photographing this beauty, a small Grysbok came by. Great! On our return back to camp, we came across two groups of Giraffe as well as a Waterbuck. It was another full morning of animal viewing. After returning to camp, we spent the balance of the day getting ready to depart to Letaba, our final stop in Kruger National Park.

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	Two Kudu browsing on some small tree
	A beautiful Grysbok
	An Eagle Owl which stands over two feet tall!
	A Giraffe enjoying a snack
	Look at that adorable face!
	A Waterbuck among the trees
	It's a Giraffe kind of day!

[ T O P ]

Sunday, 29 September: Our morning game drive was actually a relocation drive to reach Letaba Rest Camp. That being said, it was a very productive game drive. Our morning began with encountering a large Bull Elephant. Then we came across a group of Waterbuck – both male and female. We also saw a lone Giraffe and a White-Backed Vulture. Then, we came across a “tusker” – an old Bull Elephant with huge tusks. As we approached the Letaba River late in the afternoon, there was a herd of Elephant crossing the river. Always a treat to see! There were also several Waterbuck feeding on the green grass along the river bank. Finally, we saw a pair of Bull Elephants – one having much longer tusks than the other and probably showing the other fellow the bachelor life.

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	A large bull Elephant
	Female Waterbuck
	A young male Waterbuck (so easily recognized by the white circle on the rump)
	A long "Tusker" - a male Elephant with very large tusks
	Our final glimpse of a Giraffe (on this trip to Kruger)
	A White-Backed Vulture
	Zebra
	These Zebra & Wildebeest stay together for group protection
	Can you see the Elephants on the horizon?
	Thankfully, our zoom shows the Elephant group in the distance
	A male Steenbok
	Elephants crossing the Letaba River
	A large male Waterbuck at the Letaba River
	Another "Tusker" and his bachelor companion

We arrived in camp and settled in for the evening. We had another lovely accommodation with the standard outdoor kitchen. Ed cooked a delicious meal while nearby Bushbok looked on. It was a great way to spend our final evening in Kruger National Park (at least for 2013)!

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	Entering Kruger National Park through the Malalane Gate
	One of the adorable Impala serving as the "Meet & Greet Committee"
	We've arrived!
	Our abode with its private patio

	The White Rhino family
	The mother and her calf
	The male Rhino
	The setting near the waterhole

	Sunrise in Kruger National Park
	Two Rhino in the group of three we spotted just a few kilometers from Berg-en-dahl Rest Camp
	The second group of Rhinos on the opposite side of the park road
	A closer view of two Rhino
	Look at the size of the horn on this Rhino

	Another beautiful male Kudu
	The mother Elephant and her baby who appeared in front of the car
	A shot of the baby
	A clear shot of the female Elephant as she moved into a clearing

	An unusual Cactus
	This Crocodile is enjoying some sun
	Turtles are also basking on the bank
	This group of ducks is a bit leery of going into the water

	Ed busily preparing dinner
	The main course of our feast - pasta with green beans & South African cheese

	The two Giraffe - one obviously much larger than the other
	A Rhino foraging on the grasses

	The group of Rhino
	Another shot of one of these massive creatures
	A Giraffe browsing on foliage
	Wow, an Elephant!
	Look at the size of the horns on this Buffalo

	Our guides, Moss (left) & Moozee (right)
	The Rhino is hidden a bit (as we were from it) but you can see its head & horn
	This is the backside of the dangerous Black Rhino
	The colorful yet nasty Centipiede

	The female Elephant with her calf
	You can clearly see the Elephant's broken tusk
	The massive Bull Rhino - really amazing!

	A female Kudu
	One Baboon grooming another
	A view of this section of the Park, including some interesting cacti

	Baboons crossing the paved H3
	The group makes is safely across to the other side of the road
	The tiny yet beautiful Steenbok

	You can see the Leopard looking our way
	The Leopard is now moving down the tree and we lost sight of it as the Leopard reached the ground

	A large Bull Elephant says "bye"
	Another group of Elephants we saw while leaving the Berg-en-dahl area

	A beautiful "Meet & Greet" female Kudu
	A very interesting Bush Pig
	Two Buffalo - the one in back is a male

	Welcome to Skukuza Camp!
	Our thatched-hut abode
	Ed is standing in the screened-in cooking area

	Our first encounter - a lone Giraffe
	This is a beautiful Gray Go-Away Bird
	A female Elephant and her calf both enjoying a drink
	A profile of this male Warthog
	Look at this guy's face
	Seeing this huge Bull Giraffe was a great way to end our afternoon drive

	A Buffalo at the lakeside
	The two courting bird are Yellow-Billed Storks and a Marabou Stork is looking on
	Another group of Buffalo
	This looks like a Hippo convention
	Here we found a male Bushbok

	The Elephants are heading to the river after crossing the road
	The Elephants now disperse and begin enjoying eating & drinking
	Enjoying a well-deserved drink

	This Warthog made it into Camp
	Another Warthog made the journey too
	A Wildebeest, our first sighting of one\| in Kruger National Park
	A Red-Billed Hornbill

	A pair of Saddle-Back Storks
	Look at how this guys knees work
	Those long legs come in handy when you have an itch on your long neck
	A close-up of the gorgeous colors on this fellow's forehead & beak

	This Lioness is asleep in the shade; our first glimpse of a Lion in Kruger!
	The Lioness raises her head
	The Lion is now semi-awake

	The majestic Goliath Heron
	Look at the horns on this Buffalo
	A group of happy Hippo enjoying the river

	This Leopard is enjoying the shade in the rocks
	Look at how huge this Leopard is once it's standing
	The Leopard decides it's time to leave
	The tiny Steenbok
	Another view of the Steenbok

	A multi-species shot (Wildebeest, Zebra, Giraffe)
	A Giraffe finding shade
	A Waterbuck and his harem seek shade
	Despite the Waterbuck's deformed horn, he still had a nice harem

	An African Wild Cat
	Another large Buffao
	These three Giraffe are all eating from the same bush
	A small Bushbok
	A huge Baobob Tree

	This huge male Elephant wants to eat the delicious roots of this bush
	The push begins
	After this final push, the Elephant can get to the roots
	This beautiful Lioness was relaxing when we were able to photograph her

	A female Giraffe with her baby in the right background
	A closer view of the baby Giraffe
	Can you see the "hitchhiking bird" on this Zebra? Actually, it's a picking insects and/or ticks from the Zebra's skin

	The Olifants River
	Hippo along the Olifants River
	A closer view of two of these huge Hippo
	Yes, the scenery is much drier here in this section of Kruger

	An unknown Eagle or Hawk
	This Buffalo got very close to our vehicle
	We're at the Tropic of Capricorn
	Egyptian Geese
	Zebra - at last!

	A pair of Ibis (we think)
	The beautiful Lilac-Breasted Roller
	Wow, this Elephant is huge
	This fellow looks even bigger from the side

	Warthogs near the water
	Two Crocodile sunning
	A closer view of one of these Crocodile
	Look at those jaws!

	Ed in our outdoor kitchen
	Dinner preparations are well underway
	Our delicious pasta al'Eduardo!

	This Tawny Eagle is on its nest
	Another view of the Tawny Eagle perched above its next
	A Baobob tree on this dry hillside
	Our first sighting of a Giraffe in this part of the Park

	Animals drinking at the Utispan waterhole
	Yet another Giraffe, a huge one!
	This Giraffe seems more interested in shade than eating