Laos

NOTE: "HOME" takes you to our initial home page; "UP" will return you
to the Round The World 2012 site for more exploring.

Thursday, 1 November: A new adventure begins…. Our first visit to Laos! Our tour was arranged by Leo Liu of GoWay Travel prior to our departure from the US. Leo did an excellent job on both this tour and our tour of Malaysia! If you need assistance with touring in Asia, we highly recommend contacting Leo (leol@goway.com).

The day began in Bangkok with a 5:00AM wake-up call so that we could be at breakfast at 6:00AM. We ate quickly so that we were at the Executive Lounge for check-out at 6:45AM. Then, we went downstairs and caught a taxi to Bangkok’s Suvarnabh Airport. We were ahead of the traffic (once we left the downtown area) and arrived at the airport in about 45 minutes. Then we were able to check-in with Lao Air immediately. Afterwards, we wandered through Duty Free until it was time to board our 10:40AM flight to Luang Prabang.

Upon arrival at 12:10PM, we queued up with our fellow travelers to obtain a “visa on arrival.” We previously had completed the necessary paperwork we were given by Lao Air representatives and we brought along the required photograph so it was a quick process. After we collected our luggage, we were met by our guide, Phet, who would assist us for the next four days. We left the airport and went to the hotel Villa Santi where we checked into a large room. We were both a bit surprised at how nice it was, especially having an air-conditioning unit (we had expected only a ceiling fan). Then, by 2:00PM we began our touring of the old city which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our first stop of the day was at Wat Mai – a temple with a five-tiered roof built in what we learned was typical Lao style. That is, the roofs sweep low and the eaves come within a foot or two of the ground. It was founded in about 1796 and is one of the oldest and most famous monasteries in Luang Prabang. It is a beautiful complex which has approximately 35 active monks. There are many beautiful statues of Buddha throughout the complex. The most spectacular is in the main temple building. The main building also has beautiful relief work depicting many aspects of the life of Buddha. Phet did an excellent job of explaining some of the stories to us that we not learned during our prior visits to other Buddhist temples.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Wat Mai Temple
	A sitting Buddha and a standing Buddha
	More Buddhas in front of the Temple's beautiful roof lines
	Prayer flags adorn this section of the Temple complex
	Pillars and the ceiling are intricately decorated
	This is one of the reliefs pertaining to Buddha's life
	Beautiful doors
	Us in front of Buddha and the altar

After leaving Wat Mai, we walked along Luang Prabang’s main street until reaching the entry for Phou Sii Hill. Then, we made the climb up 350 steps to enjoy a close-up view of the beautiful stupa atop the hill as well as the incredible views of the city and the Mekong River. It was a tough trek due to the heat and humidity but worth it once we were at the top. After taking numerous photographs, we walked down the opposite side of the hill and were picked up by our driver. It was about 5:00PM so we returned to the hotel to freshen up before our 6:00PM dinner.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	A view of Phou Sii from outside Wat Mai
	Our climb has become
	Looking down on Wat Mai
	The beautiful stupa a top of Phou Sii
	A view of the Mekong River from Phou Sii Hill
	A view of Luang Prabang
	Buddha of Phou Sii

We met Phet in the hotel lobby and walked across the street to the Tamnak Restaurant. There we sat outside on the upstairs balcony of a beautiful French-style building. Phet ordered a fabulous dinner of watercress soup, flash-fried shrimp and vegetables, fish steamed in banana leaves and chicken cooked in coconut milk. Everything was delicious and we also enjoyed an ice cold Lao Beer. After dinner we walked along the main road past Wat Mai to reach Luang Prabang’s night market. Each evening the street is closed to traffic and vendors set up booths to sell goods. Vendors sold all sorts of items ranging from t-shirts and costume jewelry to silk scarves and sterling silver jewelry. We walked around with Phet for about an hour and then it was time to call it an evening. Phet walked us back to our hotel (he had ridden his motorcycle from home and left it at the hotel). We were exhausted from our travel as well as the extensive walking so we went to bed early, especially knowing we had to get up at 5:30AM tomorrow.

Friday, 2 November: This morning we were up at 5:30AM and we met Phet in front of the hotel at 6:00AM. The reason for the early morning was so that we could start the day with one of the most memorable sights of the city, “Tak Bat.”

At dawn, approximately 300 hundred Buddhist monks walk the streets in silence with a large bowl tucked into their robes to collect offerings of food from locals and tourists. Phet had arranged for us to have an offering rug on which to stand as well as a tub of sticky rice for each of us to distribute. He then demonstrated for us that when the monks arrived, we should take some rice (using our fingers) and put it into their bowls. There was some etiquette required. First, we had to be ready as the monks must continue in procession and cannot wait for food to be placed in the bowl. Next, we both needed to wear an appropriate scarf which Phet placed on each of us – Ed’s tied across his body and Lindy’s draped across her shoulder. Finally, we should not come into contact with either the monk’s body or his bowl.

The process sounded simple until the monks began to arrive. We had trouble getting the rice to break into small pieces. Eventually, we got the hang of it and, during a few breaks in the procession, we would roll some rice into little balls in anticipation of filling the bowls of the approaching monks. After our bowls were empty (except for a few grains which we then placed on nearby rocks for the “spirits”), we took a few photographs of the monks who remained in the procession.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	We're ready for the procession to begin
	The monks begin to arrive
	And the procession continues
	As we continue to give food, the streets of the city are coming to life
	This small boy is in the monk hood
	The process continues for a long time due to the number of monks residing in Luang Prabang

At about 6:30AM, the monks were gone and we walked back to our room. We freshened up quickly and then went to the hotel restaurant (again, done in French style with open windows and a veranda) to enjoy a delicious breakfast. Then, it was time to continue the day’s touring.

At 8:30AM, Phet returned to the hotel with our driver, Mr. Aoun, and we took a quick drive to reach the National Museum, formerly the Royal Palace. Initially, we took photographs of a new building which will serve as home to the Prabang Buddha that currently is at Wat Mai. Once the Buddha is moved to this location, no photographs of the building interior will be allowed so we were grateful to take some shots. Afterwards we walked through the Museum (no photographs allowed). It basically remains furnished as a royal residence with some artifacts also included. It was an interesting and very worthwhile tour.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	The future home of the Luang Prabang Buddha
	The future sitting place for the Luang Prabang Buddha
	Phet and Lindy inside the future Temple
	Beautiful doors
	A corner shot showing the intricate walls and ceiling of the future temple

Our next stop was to visit Wat Xieng Thong. The complex had a variety of beautiful buildings. We enjoyed viewing the main building as well as several smaller side temples. The main building contains a platform used to transport the Prabang Buddha during religious festivals. It is a huge wooden structure covered with gold leaf. It takes at least eight men on each side to carry the Buddha through the streets. Obviously, there was also a beautiful Buddha in the main temple. Also, on the back wall of the exterior of the temple was a beautiful inlaid “Tree of Life.” Gorgeous! In a small side temple, we came across a beautiful reclining Buddha. Then, the grounds contained some beautiful stupas too. It was a very unique setting and amazingly it was in the heart of Luang Prabang. Having so many beautiful and active Buddhist temples in Luang Prabang truly makes it a one-of-a-kind UNESCO site.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Wat Xieng Thong
	A closer view of the side of the Temple
	Looking directly at the entry to Wat Xieng Thong
	A side temple in the complex
	Stuppas in the complex
	Naggas (giant snakes) to carry Buddha
	A closer view of the Naggas
	The interior of Wat Xieng Thong
	Buddha
	Another small temple in the complex
	A Reclining Buddha
	The "Tree of Life" on the back of Wat Xieng Thong

After we were done at the temple, we were driven to a dock on the Mekong River. There we boarded a long boat (we were the only three passengers although the boat could accommodate 22 people) and began the two hour ride to the Pak Ou Buddha Caves. En route, we made a quick stop at a small village known for its whiskey making. We chose not to try the 100 proof beverage but we did take a few photographs of an active still. In about another hour, we reached the site of the cave. However, we first went to a restaurant on the opposite side of the Mekong to enjoy a delicious fish lunch. During lunch we saw a local farmer bring his elephants down to the river for a water bath and some grazing.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Our boat
	Relaxing during our private cruise
	A small fishing village
	Our captain
	Another village with tall mountains in the background
	Our stop at the village selling whiskey
	A loom with scarves hanging nearby
	Lindy by one of the town stills
	During our lunch stop, we saw a farmer bring his elephant and her calf to the Mekong to drink

We then crossed the river and went to the Pak Ou Buddha Caves. The caves overlook the confluence of the Mekong and Ou Rivers and have been used to house statutes of Buddha since the 16^th century. We climbed up a steep set of stairs to access the main alter areas. Many individuals make pilgrimages to the site and leave small statues of Buddha behind so there are an amazing number and variety of small Buddha statues in addition to the main Buddha statute. Afterwards, we learned there was a higher cave which in fact was the original cave. So, we went up even more steep stairs to access it. Once at the cave entry we had to use a flashlight to walk into the cave as well as photograph the key Buddha statue kept there. All and all, it was an interesting experience and worth the hike.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Pak Ou Cave
	A altar with Buddha and then many Buddha statutes left by pilgrims
	More Buddha statutes
	This altar was highly decorated
	A stupa in the caves
	Looking back at the village where we stopped for lunch
	A final altar in Pak Ou Cave

By the time we returned to our boat, we were all hot. The ride back was only about an hour because we were going with the current. We cooled off and relaxed in the breeze the boat created. We had a bit of fun as the voyage ended because Ed tipped the captain’s wife rather than the captain. Of course, she turned the tip over to the captain (her husband) but we all enjoyed a good laugh due to her/his surprise at the tip being presented to her.

Instead of returning to our original departure dock, we were dropped off at a small village about 10 minutes away from Luang Prabang. There we saw some individuals making paper from mulberry bark and also some women weaving silk products. We did a bit of shopping to assist the local economy. Then, we returned to Luang Prabang via our van after a very full day. We said goodbye to Phet and our driver and then walked to a small market to purchase an ice-cold Lao Beer. Then, it was time to unwind for the evening.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	This woman in making paper from Mulberry bark; Mulberry leaves is used the food for silk worms
	The basic paper is now being laid out in a drying rack with decorative leaves added
	Silk worms eating Mulberry leaves
	These are silk worm caccoons from which silk is made
	Phet shows us the silk strands that have been produced using the caccoons - note the natural colors
	A woman working at a loom using silk thread dyed into various colors

[ T O P ]

Saturday, 3 November: We had a bit latter morning (we didn’t go to watch the monks collect food today) and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. We especially enjoyed the spicy Lao noodle soup. Then at 8:30AM, we checked out of the hotel to begin our trek to Phonsavan, the capital of the province of Xieng Khuang. We were making the 200KM trek through the mountains to be able to visit the Plain of Jars, nearby Phonsavan, the following day. The ride was slow once we were outside of Luang Prabang because the road was steep, narrow and very windy. We did stop a couple of times to stop at roadside markets and/or to take photographs of the scenery.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	A view of the setting
	A wild poinsettia plant
	A very quiet village
	A river community
	Rice drying on the ground
	An active roadside market

At 1:00PM, everyone needed a break so we stopped at the town of Phoukoun. There we enjoyed a great soup of noodles and vegetables at a small restaurant. Phet and Aoun had the same lunch as we did but they each had chicken added to their soups. Then, we were back on the road again. The road was still steep and narrow but there wasn’t nearly as much traffic since a lot of it headed to Vientiane at the town of Phoukoun. That being said, in addition to fighting some of the traffic, Aoun also had to deal with cattle, roosters, chickens and even children playing in the roadway.

About 4:00PM, we finally came out of the mountains and into a large valley. Obviously the driving got easier for Aoun. On the outskirts of Phonsavan, we stopped at the LSC Mulberry Store. It’s a self-sufficient operation where silk worms are raised (using mulberry leaves as food) and silk is produced. Women from the Xieng Khouang province as well as two other nearby provinces are taught to weave and produce various silk products for sale in the store. The operation is basically a cooperative designed to raise the living standard of the women residing in nearby small villages. We were given a quick tour and then we again did some shopping to help promote the project.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	The Mulberry plants used by the LSC Mulberry Store
	Silk worms enjoying the Mulberry leaves
	A collection of white cocoons
	If you look carefully, this woman in unweaving silk fibers from a yellow cocoon
	Here the fibers and made into thread
	These flowers are one of the natural dye sources used at LSC Mulberry
	A loom with some beautiful cloth

Once we arrived in Phonsavan, we went to visit a MAG Bombing Museum. Directly across the street was a restaurant, “Craters,” which had a huge variety of bomb casings which were used to decorate the place. Once inside the Museum, we learned that Laos was the most heavily bombed country in the world. This occurred due to bombing of the Ho Chi Minh Trail supplying Vietnam during the US/Vietnamese war. The problem that remains is the enormous amount of unexploded ordinances. Special training and expertise is needed to find and remove the remaining ordinances. Unfortunately, they remain active under the soil and many lives are lost each year. We made a donation to the ongoing effort to find and eradicate these bombs. It was now 5:30PM and we were all tired. So, Aoun drove us to our hotel overlooking Phonsavan. En route, we stopped at a small store to buy a large bottle of Lao Beer for us and one for each us, Phet and Aoun. It was great to enjoy the cold beer from the balcony of our room as the sunset over town. We were so full from our delicious lunch that we had some peanuts and cashews for dinner and then we were ready for bed.

lick on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	A view of the bomb casings outside Craters Restaurant
	A view of Phonsavan from our balcony at Vansana Hotel
	A beautiful sunset

[ T O P ]

Sunday, 4 November: We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the hotel. Since we were the only guests, we had eggs cooked-to-order rather than a noodle soup. At 9:00AM, Phet and Auon arrived from their hotel. They both told us that they thought the late afternoon and early evening were very cold (remember, we were sitting on our balcony at that time drinking cold beer).

Before we began our drive to the Plain of Jars, we stopped at the local Phonsavan market. Most things were quite common to us. However, we did come across something quite unique. We saw a man plucking a small bird. We learned it was a swallow and they are a food source in the area. An individual will capture a swallow alive. He/She then attaches a string to the bird's leg and puts in on the hillside. When the swallow cries out, other swallows come in response. When there are a sufficient number near the captured swallow, the individual throws out a net from a nearby hiding place and captures as many swallows as possible. Those that he/she doesn't consume, are sent to market to be sold. Interesting!

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	An individual selling pieces of honeycomb
	Lots of fresh veggies
	We were intrigued at type of small birds he was plucking
	A closer view of the feathers being plucked from a swallow

As we began our drive to visit the Plain of Jars, Phet explained that there are actually many sites where the jars have been found. Currently three sites are open for visitors. That is, the area has been cleared of unexploded ordinances so it’s safe to wander among the huge jars. So, our explorations began at Site 1 of the Plain of Jars. We were surprised at both the size and numbers of these jars. Most were at least our height and were several feet around in diameter. The mystery remains as to why they were made (we believe carved) and how they were moved from mountain quarries to their current locations. Thankfully, there weren’t many tourists as the site is not yet well known despite being recognized by UNESCO so we were able to get some great photographs.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	An information board at Site 1 at the Plain of Jars
	A huge crater from a bomb
	Look at the size of this jar in a totally unexpected location
	Two huge jars
	You can see how the jars extend done the plain towards a village
	Another large jar with many more on the horizon
	These amazing and mysterious jars are everywhere
	More and more of these jars
	The lid on this jar remains intack
	Another view of this amazing site

Then, it was time to move to Site 2 of the Plain of Jars. It took about 30 minutes to reach and, interestingly, the jars here are on a small hill. They are noticeably smaller and some have more rectangular rather than circular shapes. Again, we had the place to ourselves for it made for easy photography. After finishing our visit, we enjoyed a delicious noodle soup at a restaurant located next to the entry to the site. It was a bit misty (it never rained on us) so a warm soup, especially a spicy one, was a great late afternoon lunch.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Notice the rectangular shape of the interior of this jar
	Again, there are jumbles of jars at Site 2 too
	How about some size perspective?!
	More jars lying about
	This jar is a bit smaller but no one has any idea why
	A partially broken jar lid that bears a decoration

Our final stop was at Site 3 of the Plain of Jars. Here we had to access the site by walking through rice paddies along a tiny trail. Thankfully, it was dry season so the walking was easy although we did have to cross over a couple of fences designed to try to keep cattle off the site. Once again, it was private touring so we enjoyed exploring these jars too.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Another informative sign at Site 3
	Ed walking across a dry field to reach Site 3
	Phet watches Lindy moving from one field to another
	Our first glimpse of Site 3
	Are we really in this jar?!
	Lindy and Phet among the jars
	Most of these jars are upright
	Again, as at the other sites, these mysterious jars are scattered about
	These jars truly are in great shape

On our way back to Phonsavon, we stopped to see an old Russian tank. It was a remnant of the IndoChina war. Then, we made the drive back to town. We stopped to buy a cold Lao beer – again one for us and each of Phet and Auon. Then, it was time to relax in our room until our departure tomorrow.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	The tank body buried in the dirt
	The tank's hatch - now home to plants

[ T O P ]

Monday, 5 November: We were up at 7:00AM and were able to pack and be at breakfast by 8:15AM. While we were alone yesterday and had breakfast to order (eggs and bread), there was a buffet today due to many guests being at the hotel. It was a “yeah” for us because the buffet included a Lao noodle dish. We enjoyed it as well as some baguettes (thank you to the French influence). We were back at the room at 9:00AM and happened to turn on the TV to a live American football game – Cowboys v. Falcons.

We were picked up from the hotel at 12:00 noon by Phet and Aoun. Phet had called us earlier in the morning to advise that the local airport would not open till 1:00PM so there was no need for an early check-out.

It was about a 15 minute drive to the airport (a tiny wooden building). Phet helped us check-in (basically, we just showed our passports and our bags were each weighed). Then, we said goodbye so the fellows could begin their long journey back to Luang Prabang. We then had to have an immigration official record where we were going and he stamped our boarding passes as needed. Then, we waited for the flight to depart.

Our flight was the return leg of a flight from Vientiane to Xieng Khouang back to Vientiane. It arrived late so we were late departing. Ultimately, we arrived at our destination at 3:30PM. There we were met by our guide, Tui, who escorted us to the Lao Plaza Hotel. We checked into a lovely room and enjoyed the luxury of both internet and air conditioning. Then we relaxed until it was time to go to a dinner show.

At 7:00PM met Tui. We walked a couple of blocks to the restaurant. Tui had pre-ordered our dinner. It was excellent and included a vegetable soup, spicy spring rolls, and a chicken dish with ginger. We enjoyed the feast while listening to traditional Lao music. Then, several young woman performed traditional dances. They were beautiful and very talented. For us, there was a striking similarity to dances we had seen in Thailand. Perhaps this is due to the fact that Thailand ruled Laos at one time during its history. After dinner we walked back to the hotel with Tui and then bid him goodnight.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

Tuesday, 6 November: We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before beginning our touring at 9:00AM. Tui met us in the lobby and then our driver first took us to Wat Sisket. It is the oldest original temple in Vientiane. It has over 6,000 statutes of Buddha, many of which were located in other places and ultimately moved to the Wat for preservation. It also features some frescoes which depict the life of Buddha.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Welcome to Wat Sisaket
	Rows of Buddhas
	An interior courtyard we enjoyed alone
	A temple building with beautiful wood inlay above the door
	Another beautiful building in the Temple complex
	A beautiful sitting Buddha

From here we were able to walk to Hophrakeo (or Haw Phra Kaew), a building originally built to house the Emerald Buddha that now resides in Bangkok. The Emerald Buddha was transferred to Bangkok in 1779 after Thai General Chao Phraya put down an insurrection in Vientiane. After the General became King Rama I of Thailand, the Emerald Buddha was moved to its current home at Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok. Hophrakeo is now a museum

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Hophrakeo
	A side view of Hophrakeo
	The adorned doors of Hophrakeo
	A couple taking wedding photographs at this beautiful location

We then were back in the car and drove to see perhaps Laos’ most famous image, the Phra That Luang Stupa (or the “Golden Stupa”). It appears on the 1,000 and 10,000 Kip Lao notes, the Lao entry visa and probably on lots more things too! It’s a beautiful huge stupa painted in a golden color and it is surrounded by smaller golden stupas.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	A Temple in the Golden Stupa complex
	A side view of this beautiful building
	The Golden Stuppa
	Another beautiful temple in the complex
	An area with numerous Buddhas among the gardens
	A reclining Buddha

Our next stop via the car was at Patousay (or Anousavari), a victory gate inspired by the Arc of Triumph in Paris. It was constructed between 1956 and 1968. We took photographs of the Patousay both in front of its fountains as well as photographs of only the Patousay. Then, when we walked underneath it, we were amazed at the beautiful inlay work on the interior of the archway. We learned from Tui that the depictions were Hindu in origin.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

By now it was near 12:00PM so we stopped at a local restaurant for lunch. We enjoyed a great soup, followed by spring rolls, sautéed vegetables and a chicken curry. Delicious!

After lunch we next went to a local charity (CURE) which assists with the rehabilitation of individuals injured by unexploded ordinances from the “Secret War” when the US was bombing the Ho Chi Minh Trail. It was similar in nature to the MAG Bombing Museum in Phonsavan except it dealt with raising funds for artificial limbs and/or rehabilitation for injured individuals. Obviously, donations are highly appreciated.

We finished our day of touring at a local temple, Wat Simuang. This temple was a small temple outside the main part of the city. When we arrived, Tui noticed that a ceremony was being celebrated and he encouraged us to participate. Tui said the ceremony is called “Soot Latman.” As we understand it, followers of Buddhism in Laos believe that there are 32 spirits that occupy an individual. Sometimes one of these spirits gets lost and it is necessary to have a monk perform a ceremony to encourage the lost spirit to return.

To participate in the ceremony, we first had to have parts of our body measured (i.e., the diameter of our head, the length from our thumb to our index finger and the length of our forearm) using a cord dipped in wax. Then, these cords (one for each of us and Tui) were entwined. These were placed on a tray with marigold flowers and several small candles. Then, this tray was placed over a bowl filled with water and flower petals.

,
We then walked over to the temple and, after removing our shoes, we placed the bowl before a monk and sat in front of him. First, Tui took a roll of silk string from the monk and unwound it so that it was circling our group (us, Tui, two women and one couple). The monk then lit each of our respective bundles of wax over our respective bowls of water. While the wax melted and sizzled into the water, the monk chanted. Then, he extinguished any remaining flames and put a small broom into the water – now considered to be holy water due to his chants and prayers. We were then blessed by the monk as he sprinkled the holy water on us. Finally, he took the silk string and then placed it around each of our wrists (one at a time) to create a silk bracelet. We were told that the bracelet should be worn at least 72 hours to ensure our lost spirit could find its way home to us. It was a very interesting ritual. Interestingly, a woman from Thailand asked Tui what the ceremony was about and then how she could get the wax/water bowl to participate. So, obviously, Buddhism isn’t universally the same but has some local context as well.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	The beautiful Wat Simuang
	The ruins of an ancient temple built with clay or mud bricks
	Us participating in the Soot Latman ceremony
	The monk burning the wax twine over bowls of holy water
	You can see how the silk string surrounds our group
	The monk continues with his blessing
	Wax twine burning over the bowl
	The monk is tying a piece of thesilk on Lindy's wrist

[ T O P ]

After the ceremony, we drove back into town and said goodbye to Tui and our driver. We spent the balance of the day packing and reorganizing in anticipation of a very early departure tomorrow morning.

Wednesday, 7 November: Today was our day to begin exploring southern Laos. Unfortunately, it involved a 6:30AM flight so we were up at 4:00AM in anticipation of a 5:00AM transfer to the airport. As we checked out of the hotel, we picked up breakfast boxes that Tui had arranged for us upon departure. Then, a young man and driver took us to the airport. En route to the airport, we peeked into the breakfast boxes and saw there was more than we could possibly eat and there was also a bottle of chilled green tea in each box that wouldn’t make it through security. So, we gave both individuals a tea and also a box of fruit. They were both appreciative to be able to have something to enjoy at this early morning hour. Once at the airport, the young man made sure we were checked-in before bidding us goodbye.

While waiting for our flight, we opened the breakfast boxes and consolidated into one the items we would eat. Then, we gave a box of fruit to a cleaning man and another box with meats and breads to a young woman working in a concession. They were both so grateful for this tiny gift. As we realized, most individuals in Laos have enough food to eat – primarily rice – but not too much else except for a few vegetables and occasionally some fish. So, have some exotic fruits and/or ham was something that was unusual and very welcome.

Our flight departed on time and we arrived at Pakse at 7:45AM. After picking up our luggage, we were met by our guide, Lom. He then took us to an awaiting van to meet our driver, Chit. We then drove to the Champasak Palace Hotel where we were able to check-in (despite the early hour) and get our luggage into our room. Then, by 8:30AM, we were back in the van to begin our touring.

We left Pakse and drove to the Bolaven Polateau which is an extinct volcano with an altitude that is high enough for the production of both tea and coffee. The drive took about two hours. When we stopped to visit a tea plantation, we noticed that the temperature was definitely cooler. Once we were at the plantation, Lom gave us a quick tour. He showed us which tiny leaves are used to make the high quality green tea that is famous in this area. Then, he took us to an area where the picked leaves were being sorted and ultimately dried. Afterwards, we tasted the tea and we both agreed it was delicious. We then bought a bag (nothing fancy; just tea leaves in a cellophane wrapping) from the woman overseeing the roasting.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Us holding tiny tea leaves on a nearby tea plant
	The numerous rows of tea plants
	A roasting machine
	Lom holding the tiny roasted tea leaves - from the batch we ultimately purchased

We continued on our drive (we learned it was a loop road on the plateau) and we next stopped at a coffee plantation. Here Lom showed us how the actual coffee bean is encapsulated within a thin shell. Once it is removed, the coffee bean is a tiny white bean. The bean covering (shell) initially is green and when it ripens, the color changes to red. Some workers were harvesting the ripe beans from the plants. Ed took a photograph of one of the workers – a lovely woman with a great smile.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Lom and Lindy pointing out the ripening coffee beans
	A closer view of the coffee beans
	The plants are loaded with coffee beans
	This beautiful worker with the great smile is harvesting the ripe beans

By now it was about noon time, so we all stopped for a relaxing lunch. Then, it was back on the road again. Our first stop was the Tad Fane Waterfall. It’s actually two long narrow falls that are separated by a rock formation (during the rainy season they probably are combined into one giant waterfall). We learned that local peoples recount a story of hunters ambushing a deer at the falls. We also learned that “tad” means waterfall and “fane” means deer so thus the waterfall’s name.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Before the Falls, we took a snap of Lindy in front of a giant yellow bamboo plant
	Tad Fane Waterfall
	A closer view of the thundering water

We continued our explorations by going to a second coffee plantation. Here, the harvest was much further along so we were able to see not only unpicked beans but also beans which were in the process of being readied to be roasted. First, the beans were sorted and then Lom explained how they were processed through a large machine to remove the skins as well as any accompanying twigs, etc. The cleaned beans were then laid out in huge trays for drying in the sun before being roasted for delicious Lao coffee.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Our luncheon stop at the coffee plantation
	The coffee plants under a protective cover
	Some bananas we found at the coffee plantation
	Coffee beans roasting in the sun

Lom asked if we would be interested in visiting a village housing local residents. Obviously, we were so we stopped to visit the Katou Tribe. Lindy had brought a bag of rice candy (which she had placed under her arm) and we were quickly surrounded by children who wanted a treat. Lom knew the tribal chief so he smartly gave the bag to the chief to have him distribute the candy to the children. Interestingly, he asked them to line up and they did so obediently in hopes of getting one of the treats. We watched for a bit but then continued exploring the village and taking photographs of local life there.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	A typical reed home in the Katou village
	The Katou chief distributing candy
	More of the village including a huge satellite for TV on the far left
	The tribal meeting house
	A main street in the village

Afterwards, we continued on to another scenic site – the Tad Hang and Ta Lo waterfalls. They were both beautiful! Again, during rainy season the two may actually form one immense waterfall. Our final stop of the day was at a second native village where the Nge tribe lives. We didn’t arrive with candy so we didn’t get the attention of any children. Instead, it was a quiet walk through the village.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Us at Tad Hang Waterfall
	An unobstructed view of Tad Hang Waterfall
	A closer view of Tad Hang Waterfall
	Tad Lo Waterfall

NGE TRIBE

	A home as we enter the village
	The tribal meeting house
	Chili peppers drying outside a home
	Another view of Nge housing
	Us outside the tribal meeting house
	Animals on alert as a young girl flips uncooked rice in a woven plate

[ T O P ]

We then began the return trip back to Pakse. We arrived back at the hotel at 5:00PM after a very full day of both traveling and touring. We thoroughly enjoyed our initial day in Southern Laos.

Thursday, 8 November: This morning we checked out of the hotel and were picked up at 8:00AM for a full day of touring and then some travel to an area near the Laos/Cambodian border. The day began not too far from Pakse at the Wat Phou complex. It’s a very impressive Khmer (Cambodian) temple ruin that predates perhaps the most famous Khmer temple, Angkor Wat.

Wat Phou was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2002. It is a religious complex which was constructed beginning in the 6^th century. Initially it was built to honor the Hindu god, Shiva. Subsequently, it was transformed to honor Buddha. The complex begins on a plain and then goes up a slope for 1.4km which ends up some 100 meters (328 feet) over the plain. We certainly know it was big and we definitely were aware of the incline as we explored the complex for about three hours in very hot (99 degrees) and humid weather.

Historians believe Wat Phou was built on the site for two reasons. The mountain above it has a sharp extrusion on the top which was identified as a Linga, the phallic symbol of Shiva. Then, there is a permanent spring at the foot of the mountain cliffs (just beyond the main temple room) which flows year found. So, the ancient rulers of the area decided it was destined to be a shrine to Shiva.

Before actually reaching the buildings of Wat Phou, there are two large “barays” (artificial lakes) which had both religious and practical use (they represent the ocean surrounding the earth and also serve as small reservoirs). After passing the lakes, the site begins with two opposing buildings called “palaces.” The one on the right (which looking at the complex) is undergoing massive reconstruction; the other has been partly restored. Traditional theory holds that the buildings were a place to prepare for worship before arriving at the sacred temple. The right building was used by men and the left building was used by women. The building on the left had some wonderful carved inscriptions over the entry door and an interior doorway. It’s amazing they still exist and are in excellent condition.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Looking up the Royal Road to the Wat Phou
	The palace on the right which is believed to be used by males
	The palace on the left which is believed to be used by females
	A closer view of the Palace on the right
	This is the carving over the front entry of the building
	This is the rear entry of the Palace on the right
	A Nagga stone carving lying near the Palace on the right
	A closer view of the Palace on the left used by females
	Us in front of the Palace on the left
	The entry to the Palace on the left (used by females)
	A closer view of the stone carving over the entry

Behind the left building is the remains of a small building dedicated to Nandin, the sacred bull and Shiva’s stead. Next too it begins an ancient Royal Road which leads up to the main temple. En route, there are three terraces which involve climbing up some broken staircases to proceed to the next level. Finally, we reached the sanctuary.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Nandin Hall
	We're now on the Royal Road which climbs up the hill to reach the sanctuary
	You can really see the paved road made from stones
	Looking back down the road you can see the complex and its barays (artificial lakes)

It was built in tradition Khmer style and has an initial room (hypostyle room) with three doors and beyond it is the actual sanctuary built of bricks (called a cella) which sheltered the Linga. The temple was built so that water from the mountain spring was channeled through the temple so that the Linga was doused with water which subsequently was considered to be holy water. The water entered through an orifice in the Western wall, went through the sanctuary and out via the Northern wall. Today, the only remnants of the Hindu religion remain in the beautiful carvings which are over the three doors They are truly magnificent! The interior of the temple now holds statutes of Buddha rather than Shiva, his Linga, Vishnu, Brahma or any other Hindu Gods. Also, the spring no longer is directed through the sanctuary but it does continue to flow.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	The interior of the temple where Shiva originally sat which now houses Buddha
	Buddha appears through the entry
	A closer view of Buddha
	Original Hindu carvings
	More Hindu carvings
	An yet another original Hindu carving

So, our final stop at Wat Phou was to visit the sacred spring. From nearby, we were able to get some shots of the entire complex. Many individuals still believe the spring water is sacred (even if it doesn’t flow through and out of the temple). Several women had cups and were collecting the dripping water and putting it into plastic bottles. They were very gracious and let us all take a drink from the spring (using our hands to catch the water). It tasted delicious!

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

It was now close to 12:00 noon and tine to make the trek back down to the beginning of the temple complex. Once we did so, we stopped by a nearby museum building which houses historical items collected at the site. No photographs were allowed but we did enjoy seeing the icons, carvings, etc.

We returned to our van and headed back to Pakse to reach the road we would use to continue our journey to the Laos/Cambodian border. We made a quick stop at a small supermarket to grab a cold drink to enjoy during the ride. Believe us, we all needed it!

We drove for a couple of hours and then stopped for lunch at about 2:00PM. We made it a fairly quick one because we were due to arrive at about 2:30PM at an elephant camp at Keit Ngong. When we arrived at the camp, we were the only individuals there despite multiple vans and a small bus parked in the perimeter. We learned that the occupants had already begun the adventure – a ride on an elephant with its mahout (handler).

The Lao government is promoting the use of elephants for tourism. The primary reason is that it supplies an ongoing source of income for the mahouts. The elephants previously were used as beasts of burden primarily in the foresting industry. Laos is trying to retain some of its forests for ecological reasons so logging is being discouraged. Tourism is a way to promote the region and also provide an easier life (in theory) for the elephants. That is, carrying two tourists for a one hour ride each day is a lot less work than hauling wood up and down the hillsides all day long.

We took our one hour ride and enjoyed the scenery. The elephant (a 30 year old female) didn’t seem to mind our presence or the walk until we came across the balance of the elephants returning to the camp. She wanted to turn around and join them but the mahout kept her moving forward so that we could arrive at an ancient temple. Once there, we dismounted the elephant and walked around the complex. Then, we took the return ride back to the camp. As we were on its outskirts, there was a small school. The children were just finishing their studies for the day. We really enjoyed watching one of the teachers showing the children how to perform traditional dances while traditional music was playing. It’s great to know this heritage isn’t being lost!

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

After we dismounted, we gave the mahout a small tip and he was very grateful. Then we also bought some sugar cane and bananas which we each fed to the elephant. It was a great idea on someone’s part because it creates some extra income for the village because the sugar cane and bananas grow wild. Then, it makes us (the tourist) feel good and it also provides for some great photo opportunities.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Ed thanking our elephant for the ride with a bit of sugar cane
	The elephant appears to be smiling as she enjoys more sugar cane
	Now, it's time to enjoy a banana

After our ride, it was time to get going to reach our home for the night, Don Khong Island. To do so, we continued on the road until we ultimately reached a small village. There, at dusk, we took a ferry across the Mekong River to Don Khobng. Then it was a quick ride to our hotel, the Senesothxeun Hotel on the banks of the Mekong River. We were settled in by 6:00PM and ready to relax after a very full day.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	The ferry is boarding
	A small boat passes as we reach the other side of the Mekong and disembark

[ T O P ]

Friday, 9 November: Amazingly, this was our final day of touring in Laos; how quickly the days have flown! We were up early and enjoyed a very relaxing breakfast. The hotel has a lovely breakfast room overlooking the Mekong River and it also includes some outdoor seating. We chose to remain indoors under a fan and we enjoyed a freshly made noodle soup. One of the hotel’s principals, Mr. Phet, was very pleased and surprised that we both enjoyed the traditional Lao breakfast.

At 8:00AM, we were ready for the day’s adventure. Chit drove us and Lom to a nearby dock. There we parted company as we began a boat ride down the Mekong while Chit took the vehicle back across the river to our ultimate meeting place late in the afternoon. Our boat ride down the Mekong River took about two hours. It was very pleasant as the boat had a cover and we actually had a slight breeze. Ultimately, we arrived at Don Khone Island.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

To see the sites, Lom suggested that we hire a cycle with a side-car. It turned out to be a great suggestion and Lom was able to accompany us by riding on the back of the motorcycle. We began our explorations by stopping by an old locomotive that was used to transfer goods and boats around impassable waterfalls on the Mekong. We were a bit shocked because we had always seen the Mekong as a wide, easy-flowing river. We learned that we would have our chance to see the falls later that day.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Our means of transportation - a motorcycle with a side car
	Children attending a local school
	Part of the rail system that was used to move goods around the Mekong falls
	Two individuals harvesting rice
	This is our trail - the former railroad tracks
	A view over to Cambodia

Then, using a road that we believe was actually the former track for the railroad, we headed to the far end of the island and once again boarded a boat. Here our quest was to try and see one of the freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins known to sometimes visit the area. What happened? Success! We saw several of these elusive creatures as the boat driver would head upstream and then drift down the Mekong in hopes of not disturbing the creature’s normal swimming/diving pattern. Unfortunately, picture taking was very difficult since we would typically hear the animal, have to look in its direction and try to snap a shot all while sitting in a rocking boat. Not an easy task. Anyway, it was great that we were able to see this amazing creature.

Next, we got a glimpse of why the railroad had been constructed. We visited Lii Pii Falls and saw just how impossible it would be for any boat to go either up or down this part of the Mekong River. While the height of the falls wasn’t dramatic, there was still enough of an elevation change that the water was roaring and tumbling over numerous boulders. Also, the Falls spanned the entire width of the Mekong so there was no way around them. It’s no wonder that Don Khone Island had been an important place in the not-too-distant history of transport on the Mekong. Now days, major river shipping (at least in this area) has been displaced by alternate transport.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	The amazing Lii Pii Falls - who knew the Mekong had falls?!
	Us in front of Lii Pii Falls
	Another view of Lii Pii Falls

We ended our time on Don Khone Island enjoying a wonderful lunch at a restaurant overlooking the river. Then, we said goodbye to our cycle driver and returned to the boat that had originally brought us to the island. He then took us up river – about one hour – where we were met dockside by Chit with our air-conditioned van awaiting us.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Having fun "racing with Lom" before turning over the rig back to our driver
	Ed with his sticky rice
	Lind enjoying the feast!

We then drove to visit another waterfall, Khon Phapheng Waterfalls – believe to be the largest in Southeast Asia. It was beautiful! We continued our drive back to Pakse. Once at the hotel, we decided to take a leisurely evening stroll through the streets of Pakse and enjoy our last evening in Laos.

Click on the image to display a larger photo. Once displayed,
click on the BACK button (first button on the left of your browser)
to return to this page.

	Khon Phapheng Waterfalls
	A slightly closer view
	Us at Khon Phapheng

Sunday, 10 November: Lom and Chit picked us up at 8:00AM and took us to the airport. We said our goodbyes and thanked them for a wonderful experience. At 9:20AM we caught our flight to Bangkok and began the long trek home. Laos was a great place to end our 2012 Round the World Adventure!

	Musicians playing traditional instruments
	The first beautiful dancer
	The hand placement is so graceful
	Again, what a beauty!
	Another graceful performance
	This young woman had percussion instruments in her hands
	What balance
	This young man (note the hair style) is playing a traditional instrument in a solo

	From this angle, you can really see the three terraces going up the hill
	Yes, we actually made it!

	All aboard!
	A view from the ruins of a former temple
	Looking down on a small village where the mahouts live

	En route to Don Khone Island
	The wide and muddy Mekong
	A village on the river

	Fountains
	Us is front of the Victory Gate