N E P A L
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Thu, 27 Nov: This was a travel day for us and another new adventure – our first visit to the country of Nepal. Our flight from India was delayed so we did not arrive at the Nepal Airport until about 2:00PM. After clearing immigration and customs, we were met by our local representative, Aman. He took us to the Himalaya Hotel, our home for the next three nights. We settled in briefly and then began touring with our guide, Baburam, and our driver, Shrebad.
The Kathmandu Valley is comprised of multiple cities. We returned to Kathmandu City (Kantipur) to begin our late afternoon touring (it was a quick ride since our hotel was located in Patan City just across the river). Our first stop was the Kumark Ghar which is immediately next to Durbar Square. The Ghar is the home to a young girl who is considered to be a Living Goddess. She is chosen for this position at an early age (4-7) and holds the position until she reaches puberty. While visiting the Ghar, a stone house with windows adorned with wood carvings, the young girl did look out at us from her viewpoint of elevated windows. Our guide was very excited that he was able to see the Living Goddess.
Next, we visited Durbar Square itself. Each city in the Kathmandu Valley has its own Durbar Square – a complex of palaces, courtyards and temples built in the 12th-18th centuries by the Malla Kings. In fact, there was keen competition to have the “best” square. Today Durbar Square serves as a great place for individuals to gather and enjoy the setting. While walking from the Square, we came across a wedding procession including a band. It brought smiles to the faces of us tourists as well as the locals. Lastly, we visited the “Monkey Temple.” It featured a beautiful stupa as well as monkeys hanging about everywhere. We returned to the hotel at about 7:00PM and called in a very full day.
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A view of the Himalayas en route to Kathmandu from India |
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A typical building in the Square |
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A view across the Square |
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A wedding procession (the
bride is under the flower draperies and is being carried by members of the group while a man hold the umbrella over her) |
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The Monkey Temple in the Square |
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A couple of the Temple residents |
Fri, 28 Nov: We began our day very early at 6:15AM. Aman met us and we then went to the airport to enjoy a scenic flight on Buddha Airline to view Sagarnatha (Mt. Everest). Our flight began at approx. 7:00AM and lasted almost one hour. We enjoyed great views of Mt. Everest as well as other peaks and glacier valleys on our way to/from Kathmandu. We were allowed to visit the cockpit (one guest at a time) to get an incredible view. Wow, the Himalayas truly are amazing!
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Our Buddha Airline flight |
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The mountains from the plane (this could be an advertisement for Buddha Air!) |
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A view of Mt. Everest from the
cockpit (Mt. Everest is in the center) |
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A closer view of this Mighty Giant! |
After returning to the hotel for breakfast, we began our day of touring with Baburam. Our initial stop was at Patan City’s Durbar Square. Again, it is a complex of palaces, courtyards and temples primarily built in the 17th century. While in this area, we visited Mahaboudhha, a Buddhist temple made of clay bricks with over 1,000 images of Buddha engraved on them. We next drove along the Bagmati River and stopped across from the Pashupatinath Hindu Temple. Below the temple is “Arya Ghat,” the most used place for cremation of the deceased in Nepal. The body is set on a pile of wood on one of the concrete pillars in the river and then, after being attended to by the priest, is set afire.
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A view of Patan's Durbar Square |
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One of the many temples in the Square |
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Lindy and Ed in the Square |
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Mahaboudhha Buddhist Temple |
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A close-up view of the bricks of Mahaboudhha, each bearing images of Buddha |
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The Bagmati River and the Ayra Ghat cremation sites |
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A closer view of Ayra Ghat.
Clearly visible are the remains of wood fires used to cremate the dead. |
We finished our day of touring in the town of Bhaktapur. The key sites we visited were in its Durbar Square - the Golden Gate and the Palace of 55 Windows. After we finished touring this beautiful old part of Bhaktapur, we returned back to our hotel.
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The Golden Gate at Bhaktapur's Durbar Square |
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The Palace of 55 Windows |
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Stone Temple of Batsala Devi |
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Lindy and Ed in front of another temple in Bhaktapur's Durbar Square |
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Lindy and Babu in front of the Barking Dog Bell |
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A typical street in Bhaktapur |
Sat, 29 Nov: Our quest today was to get some nice views of the Himalaya Mountains; and we succeeded! At 8:30AM our driver, Shrebad, drove us out of the Kathmandu Valley to the mountain town of Nangakot. After leaving the Valley which, unfortunately, has very hazy air, we had a bright clear day. As a result, we had great views as we drove up into the mountains. Once we arrived at Nangakot, we stopped at two locations where we hiked up to viewing areas. There we took photographs of the beautiful and majestic Himalaya Mountains. We returned back to the hotel in early afternoon. We spent the balance of the day there where we reviewed photographs and got ready for an early departure tomorrow to the Chitwan National Park.
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The beautiful Himalaya Mountains |
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The terraced valleys in the countryside |
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This sign might make one of
Jay Leno's spots (read carefully) |
Sun, 30 Nov: Aman and Shrebad arrived at the hotel at 7:30AM and we were ready to begin our drive to Gaida Wildlife Lodge (about 5 hours away) in Chitwan National Park. We actually made very good time and arrived at the lodge shortly before 12:00 noon. After a welcoming and introduction to the facility, we were escorted to our cabana to settle in. Then, we and Aman enjoyed a delicious lunch.
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Welcome to the Camp! |
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Our cabana |
At 3:00PM, we had our first elephant safari. We mounted a wooden seat on Rajkali, our elephant for the trek, behind our “mahout” (elephant trainer/driver). Accompanying us on this two hour trek was Rajkali’s two-year old daughter, Shuvakali. We had great luck with animal sightings. We first came across three male Spotted Deer. Next, we saw a wild boar running away from us. The highlight of the day was two separate spottings of a female Asian rhino with her offspring. The first mom & baby were pretty calm having several elephants in the vicinity. However, the second mom & baby got separated and the mom ending up charging toward another elephant out on the trek. The Asian rhino mom subsequently settled down and she and her youngster headed for the brush. We also saw monkeys, wild chickens and sambar deer. Photography was very difficult due to being on the back of the moving elephant but we did manage a few shots.
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Our adventure begins upon Rajkali |
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Shuvakali traveling along side of us |
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Entering the jungle thickets |
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Our first Rhino spotting - mother & baby |
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A closer look at mom |
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Our second spotting of a female Rhino |
We returned to Camp and about 6:00PM we joined the camp members and guests for the birthday party for Shuvakali. The compound where the elephants reside was decorated with all sorts of colored flags and balloons. Shuvakali herself was decorated with colorful body-paint drawings. She celebrated her 2nd birthday with fresh bananas, apples and other fruits. We were treated to rum punch and birthday cake. Yum, yum for all! On our way back to the main camp area for dinner, we were all treated to a Rhino enjoying a snack near the outdoor bar. Wow, five rhino sightings in a single day! We then had a delicious dinner and were back to our cabana by 8:15PM. After a quick solar shower, we called it another very full and fun day.
Mon, 1 Dec: We began our morning with coffee under the trees at 6:15AM. Then, we went for an hour long nature walk. The guides pointed out the various flowers and faunas used by the local peoples. Afterwards we had a quick breakfast. Then, at 8:30AM we took a canoe ride on the river immediately across from the lodge which serves as the barrier to Chitwan National Park. At 10:00AM we left the canoes and hiked to the Elephant Breeding Station run by the government. There we saw many elephants and their young offspring. The highlight was seeing three-week old twin elephants. This was the first recorded birth of twins to an Asian elephant.
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A view of the river |
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A local moving his stock across the river |
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Enjoying a relaxing ride! |
We returned to Camp via jeep. There we had a great lunch and had a hour to relax. Afterwards, we went to hear a lecture on the differences between Asian and African elephants. It was very interesting. In addition, the speaker needed a volunteer to mount the elephant and lucky Lindy was chosen. Lindy was instructed to grab onto the elephant’s ears and then step on her offered trunk to reach the sitting place just behind her skull. Boy, it’s pretty high up there. Lindy and the mahout then walked about for several minutes. Lindy learned to dismount the elephant by swinging one leg over the elephant’s head while it knelt down and then sliding down to the ground. Wow, what a neat experience!
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Getting read to mount the elephant |
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Almost there |
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Finally getting on board |
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Lindy acting as the mahout |
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Dismounting. Overall, a great treat!! |
We finished the afternoon by taking another trek on Rajkali. Again, we were very lucky game spotting. First, we saw a group of Mongoose scurrying across a trail. Then, we saw an Asian Rhino mother and her baby which we followed for quite a while. Finally, we came across a mother Sanbar Deer with her baby.
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Another Rhino mom and baby |
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Mom has turned her back but baby is still interested |
At 6:00PM in the evening, the local Tara peoples (originally from Rajhanistan in India) came to the Camp to demonstrate local dancing and music. The company was all males and most dancing including use of sticks primarily used for self-protection. It was amazing what the young men could do in a highly coordinated fashion. One very special highlight was a solo torch dance by one individual. At the end of the night, the young men asked each of the guests at the lodge to join in a dance. Lindy participated while Ed was the photographer.
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An amazing dance |
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The dancing continues |
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An amateur joins the group (without the sticks, of course!) |
After the dance, we retreated to the bar to enjoy a local rum with Aman. We then enjoyed another fabulous dinner and returned to our cabana at 8:15PM in anticipation of an early morning.
Tue, 2 Dec: We savoured the 6:15AM coffee at the Camp and had an early breakfast while others heading out trekking. After thanking everyone and saying goodbye to the Camp staff, we returned back to Kathmandu. We arrived early so we stopped in town to do a little sightseeing. We then proceeded on to the airport for our return back to India.
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Aman, Lindy & Shrebad |
Nepal was truly a special place. We found its peoples to be very welcoming and kind. We met individuals from many different ethnic groups with unique dress and costumes. Of course, we loved being in the Himalayas – mountains truly are our kind of place. Speaking of which, this is definitely a place to which we'll return!!