JAPAN
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24 August: We began our first “Round The World” itinerary in the beautiful country of Japan. We celebrated Ed’s 68th birthday en route as well as upon our arrival in Japan on August 24. After exchanging a voucher for our rail pass and catching an airport limousine bus, we arrived at the Conrad Hilton at 6:00PM. Although we were tired and found ourselves dealing with a 15 hour time difference, we headed out on foot to see the Ginza at night.
Tokyo is an amazing labyrinth of pedways and streets. In some areas, there are five levels due to intersections with subways, roadways, pedways and trains. Anyway, the Ginza was bustling on a Friday evening with its famous shops and restaurants in full swing. We enjoyed our evening there before returning to the Hilton.
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25 August: We got up at 4:00AM so we could visit the famous Tsukiji Fish Market, again within walking distance of the Hilton. An amazing 2,000 tons of fish is sold here daily. The place was a mad house! There was every kind of fish and/or seafood delicacy available for sale. Then, we witnessed the 5:30AM auction of tuna. The fish are laid out and examined by various parties interested in purchasing the delicacy for prime grade sushi and sashimi. Promptly at 5:30AM, the auction began. The fish were all sold in a matter of minutes. Simply amazing! After the auction we explored the various food stands located in the area. We ultimately had a breakfast of noodles at a standup bar on the sidewalk. They were so delicious, especially at 6:30AM.
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Tsukiji Fish Market | |
Auction of tuna begins | |
Lindy beside some of the tuna which was sold at auction |
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A stand-up breakfast with the locals |
We spent the balance of the day in the Asakusa district, one of the oldest areas in Tokyo, which we accessed using the extensive Tokyo Metro. We entered the area via the Kaminarimon Gate. We then explored the main temple of Sensouji as well as a five-story pagoda. The temples were rebuilt after WWII to their original design. They were very impressive!
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Kaminarimon Gate leading into Asakusa |
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Denboin Temple | |
Five-Storied Pagoda | |
Ed at Sensouji Temple | |
One of the gardens with a bridge over a coi pond |
26 August: We decided to visit the ancient capital of Kamakura to see the Giant Buddha there. We took a train into the country-side. It was a short walk from the train station to the Buddha. It was another amazing site. Buddha is a bronze giant sitting serenely in a beautiful garden. He was cast in 1252 and measures 13.35 meters (~44 feet) tall. Wow! After taking lots of photographs, we paid a small fee to go inside the Giant Buddha to rub his belly for good luck. We certainly didn’t want to break tradition. After Buddha, we decided to enjoy a ride on the Eno-Den, a wooden floored train which moves slowly along the coastline. We went as far as Fujisawa, a large seaport city. After exploring and doing a bit of shopping we returned to Tokyo.
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27 August: We previously had arranged to take a tour of the Imperial Palace Grounds at 10:00AM this morning. It was a hour walk which highlighted various buildings on the grounds, including the Fujimi-yagura keep (or guard house). This three storied building was reconstructed in 1659. We also photographed the keep from the famous, Nijubashi Bridge. It was one of the most beautiful spots in Tokyo!
We next went to the Meiji Shrine. Again, a spectacular shrine in a beautiful park setting. We had the pleasure of watching the Shinto priests perform a religious ceremony. It was indeed an exceptional day and the perfect way to end our time in Tokyo.
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28 August: Today we were in transit (subway, plane,
train) to Japan’s north island, Hokkaido and, in particular, the city of
Sapporo.
29 August: Our day was spent exploring the sites in Sapporo via the
“Sapporo Walking” tour bus. It allowed us to get on/off at various spots for a
flat fee and was an excellent way to see the city. Highlights included the
jumping hill (Mount Otaru), the site of the 1972 Winter Olympics ski jump. Can
you believe that it is just above the city? Even more amazing was watching
athletes practice jumping. Instead of landing on snow, they were using wet
grass. We next visited the Hokkaido Shrine located in a lovely city park.
Again, we were able to witness a Shinto service, this one including a woman
doing a fan dance. Very different and very, very beautiful. Lastly, who could
go to Sapporo and not visit the famous brewery?? We took a self-guided tour and
then finished with a sampling of delicious beers. We then took the Sapporo
Walking bus back into the heart of the city where we walked and shopped in
various malls (some on the street and others underground).
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30 August: This morning we took a train to the port city of Otaru. In particular, it is known for its canal which supported the transport of goods to and from the North Island in the late 1800s. In fact, Otaru was referred to as the “Wall Street of the North” because of the enormous revenues that were derived from shipping. The first Bank of Japan office opened in the city in 1893. Now, Otaru is known for its outstanding glass crafts as well as music boxes.
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Lindy standing along one of the city's canals |
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The beautiful Bank of Japan building which was erected in 1912 |
31 August: Today we were in transit back to the island of Honshu. Our destination and base for the next six days was Kyoto and its environs.
1 September: Kyoto is a very ancient city and was not destroyed in World War II. However, since the war many new and modern buildings have been built and the city has grown with its temples and shrines scattered throughout. So, we opted for a daily bus pass to travel from spot to spot. It’s only possible to see two or three sites a day because each is very extensive. Our first stop was at Ryonaji Temple. Interestingly, “ji” means temple but we still add the word in English even though it is redundant. Ryonaji, a Zen temple, was established in 1450. It is famous for its rock garden which consists of 15 rocks placed on raked white pebbles. Very simple yet very beautiful and serene.
Our second stop was at Rokuonji – also known as Kinkakuji – The Golden Temple. This was truly amazing! The temple is completely covered in gold leaf. It was built by Yoshimitsu, the 3rd Shogun of Ashikaga beginning in 1397.
Our last stop of the day was at Daikakuji Temple. This is an active Shingon Buddhist temple, formerly a detached palace of Emperor Saga, which was converted into the temple in 876. We were allowed to walk through and see the various inside rooms. We had to take off our shoes so as not to damage the grass woven mats (“tatami” mats) which cover the floor. Also, as an FYI, it is considered impolite to wear your shoes when entering an individual’s home. Again, it was an impressive site and we enjoyed our time there.
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2 September: The first temple we visited was Ginkakuji – The Silver Temple. Despite the temple’s name, it is a wooden structure. It was supposed to have been covered in silver leaf (like Kinkakuji) but this never occurred. It is nevertheless a beautiful wooden Zen temple.
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Our next destination was the Heian Shrine. Under the rule of the 50th emperor of Japan, Emperor Kammu, Kyoto became the Heian Capital. This beautiful shrine commemorates the designation of Kyoto as the capital in 796. While we were enjoying the shrine, we had another treat -- two women dressed in traditional kimono allowed us to photograph them.
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We next went to Toji. The highlight at this temple is a beautiful five story pagoda. It’s the highest in Japan, measuring 187 feet. It was originally built in 826 with the last rebuilding due to fire being in 1644. Pretty awesome engineering! Inside are the temple’s famous Buddhas.
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For our final stop of the day, we took the bus to a train depot and headed south to Inari. There we visited the Fushimi Inari shrine. It consists of more than 4KM of Tori which grace the side of a mountain. “Tori” are gates comprised of two poles on each side with a pole across the top. This was a site we had both seen in movies and on postcards.
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Entry into the Fushimi Inari Shrine | |
Individuals lighting incense at the Share | |
The Tori | |
Ed inside the Tori for a perspective of the size of the structure |
3 September: We previously had made an appointment to take a guided tour of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. It was the capital of Japan for over 1,200 years before the capital was moved to Tokyo in 1868. The buildings were very impressive and we were allowed to walk through a great deal of the complex.
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Afterwards we took a break from temples/shrines and visited the Kyoto Handicrafts Market. Here we were able to watch local artisans make dolls, do block print painting and engraving with gold and silver inlay. It was all very intricate art.
We ended our day by visiting the Nishi Hongwanji Temple. Here we witnessed a Shin Buddhist ceremony while seated on tatami mats. It was very beautiful and, of course, to us a bit different. However, we found the lighting of the incense to be similar to the lighting of candles in the Catholic Church.
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4 September: We used our Japan Rail Pass to take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima. The Shinkansen travels at more than 100MPH and you don’t even realize it because the ride is so smooth. We then took a local train and subsequently a ferry to Miyajima Island. There we visited the Itsukushima Shrine. It is a Shinto shrine that sits on pillars over the sea. It was built in 593 and subsequently expanded in 1168. It is famous for its giant Tori which sits in the bay offshore to great its visitors. It was a beautiful site and a wonderful adventure. We also witnessed a traditional marriage ceremony. If only we knew who the bride and groom were – we have 10 minutes of great video of the Shinto ceremony.
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5 September: We once again took a train (limited express) to visit the city of Nara. Nara was Japan’s first capital. Most of the temples and shrines are located in Nara Park (very different than in Kyoto where they are scattered around town). So, we walked to the park from the train station. We were met by the deer which are found throughout the park. They are considered by some to be the messengers of the gods of Kasuga Taisha so they live in and about the park and are very tame. We then visited the Kofukoji Temple complex. It was a beautiful collection of buildings and pagodas. Next we visited the most famous temple in Nara – Todaiji. It is the Head Temple of the Kegon Sect of Buddhism. It also is the largest wooden structure in the world and it contains a cast bronze statute of Buddha (along with two companions) that is ~50 feet tall. Awesome!
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6 September: Today we were in transit (Shinkansen and local train) to Takayama, located in the Japanese Alps. It was a 3 hour ride once we reached our transfer station at Nagoya. The ride was gorgeous as we wound up a canyon perched above a river. When we arrived in early afternoon, it was raining. However, we braved the elements and visited the Hida Kokubunki Temple. The main temple building is the oldest structure in the city being constructed some 500 years ago. There is a huge ginko tree over 1,200 years old which sits near a bell tower across from a pagoda. Very impressive! We then wandered an area called “Furui-Machi-nami”. It’s an area of old private houses which are constructed of wood and rice paper. It was so different and there were many Japanese tourists here too as they were experiencing how their ancestors lived in this town.
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7 September: We had another great train ride back down the canyon and on to Nagoya where we spent our final night in Japan (at least for this trip).
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Continue to our next stop - KOREA