JAPAN

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24 August:   We began our first “Round The World” itinerary in the beautiful country of Japan.  We celebrated Ed’s 68th birthday en route as well as upon our arrival in Japan on August 24.  After exchanging a voucher for our rail pass and catching an airport limousine bus, we arrived at the Conrad Hilton at 6:00PM.  Although we were tired and found ourselves dealing with a 15 hour time difference, we headed out on foot to see the Ginza at night. 

Tokyo is an amazing labyrinth of pedways and streets.  In some areas, there are five levels due to intersections with subways, roadways, pedways and trains.  Anyway, the Ginza was bustling on a Friday evening with its famous shops and restaurants in full swing.  We enjoyed our evening there before returning to the Hilton.

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The lights of the Ginza

25 August:  We got up at 4:00AM so we could visit the famous Tsukiji Fish Market, again within walking distance of the Hilton.  An amazing 2,000 tons of fish is sold here daily.  The place was a mad house!  There was every kind of fish and/or seafood delicacy available for sale.  Then, we witnessed the 5:30AM auction of tuna.  The fish are laid out and examined by various parties interested in purchasing the delicacy for prime grade sushi and sashimi.  Promptly at 5:30AM, the auction began.  The fish were all sold in a matter of minutes.  Simply amazing!  After the auction we explored the various food stands located in the area.  We ultimately had a breakfast of noodles at a standup bar on the sidewalk.  They were so delicious, especially at 6:30AM.

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Tsukiji Fish Market
Auction of tuna begins
Lindy beside some of the
tuna which was sold at auction
A stand-up breakfast with the locals

We spent the balance of the day in the Asakusa district, one of the oldest areas in Tokyo, which we accessed using the extensive Tokyo Metro.  We entered the area via the Kaminarimon Gate.  We then explored the main temple of Sensouji as well as a five-story pagoda.  The temples were rebuilt after WWII to their original design.  They were very impressive! 

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Kaminarimon Gate leading
into Asakusa
Denboin Temple
Five-Storied Pagoda
Ed at Sensouji Temple
One of the gardens with
a bridge over a coi pond

[ T O P ]

26 August:  We decided to visit the ancient capital of Kamakura to see the Giant Buddha there.  We took a train into the country-side.  It was a short walk from the train station to the Buddha.  It was another amazing site.  Buddha is a bronze giant sitting serenely in a beautiful garden.  He was cast in 1252 and measures 13.35 meters (~44 feet) tall.  Wow!  After taking lots of photographs, we paid a small fee to go inside the Giant Buddha to rub his belly for good luck.  We certainly didn’t want to break tradition.  After Buddha, we decided to enjoy a ride on the Eno-Den, a wooden floored train which moves slowly along the coastline. We went as far as Fujisawa, a large seaport city.  After exploring and doing a bit of shopping we returned to Tokyo.

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The beautiful giant Buddha
A close-up shot of Buddha's Head
Tiny Ed in front of Buddha (you
can really appreciate Buddha's size)
Ed with Buddha's slippers
Inside Buddha (where we
rubbed his belly for luck!)

[ T O P ]

27 August:  We previously had arranged to take a tour of the Imperial Palace Grounds at 10:00AM this morning.  It was a hour walk which highlighted various buildings on the grounds, including the Fujimi-yagura keep (or guard house).  This three storied building was reconstructed in 1659.  We also photographed the keep from the famous, Nijubashi Bridge.  It was one of the most beautiful spots in Tokyo!

We next went to the Meiji Shrine.  Again, a spectacular shrine in a beautiful park setting.  We had the pleasure of watching the Shinto priests perform a religious ceremony.  It was indeed an exceptional day and the perfect way to end our time in Tokyo.

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Our first view of the
Fujimi-yagura Keep
Another view of Fujimi-yagura
which shows its size
The Palace and Fujimi-yagura
with Nijubashi Bridge in the foreground
"Otorii" - The Grand Shrine Gate
The gate to the Meiji Shrine is
 made from Japanese Cypress
and is the largest wooden tori in Japan
The initial entry into the Meiji Shrine
A beautiful ceremonial drum

[ T O P ]

28 August:  Today we were in transit (subway, plane, train) to Japan’s north island, Hokkaido and, in particular, the city of Sapporo.

29 August:  Our day was spent exploring the sites in Sapporo via the “Sapporo Walking” tour bus.  It allowed us to get on/off at various spots for a flat fee and was an excellent way to see the city.  Highlights included the jumping hill (Mount Otaru), the site of the 1972 Winter Olympics ski jump.   Can you believe that it is just above the city?  Even more amazing was watching athletes practice jumping.  Instead of landing on snow, they were using wet grass.  We next visited the Hokkaido Shrine located in a lovely city park.  Again, we were able to witness a Shinto service, this one including a woman doing a fan dance.  Very different and very, very beautiful.  Lastly, who could go to Sapporo and not visit the famous brewery??  We took a self-guided tour and then finished with a sampling of delicious beers.  We then took the Sapporo Walking bus back into the heart of the city where we walked and shopped in various malls (some on the street and others underground).

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The Okufamaya Ski Jump Park
located within the town of Sapporo
(Note the water being sprayed
on the landing zone so
athletes can practice the jump
during the summer months.)
The beautiful Hokkaido Shrine
Traditional services at
Hokkaido Shrine
The Sapporo Brewing Company
Yes, we're actually at the
brewery (by the brewing kettle)
Cheers!!!
(Yummy beer!  And, yes,
he drank them all!)

[ T O P ]

30 August:  This morning we took a train to the port city of Otaru.  In particular, it is known for its canal which supported the transport of goods to and from the North Island in the late 1800s.  In fact, Otaru was referred to as the “Wall Street of the North” because of the enormous revenues that were derived from shipping.  The first Bank of Japan office opened in the city in 1893.   Now, Otaru is known for its outstanding glass crafts as well as music boxes.

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Lindy standing along one of
the city's canals
The beautiful Bank of Japan
building which was erected in 1912

[ T O P ]

31 August:  Today we were in transit back to the island of Honshu.  Our destination and base for the next six days was Kyoto and its environs. 

1 September:   Kyoto is a very ancient city and was not destroyed in World War II.  However, since the war many new and modern buildings have been built and the city has grown with its temples and shrines scattered throughout.  So, we opted for a daily bus pass to travel from spot to spot.  It’s only possible to see two or three sites a day because each is very extensive.  Our first stop was at Ryonaji Temple.  Interestingly, “ji” means temple but we still add the word in English even though it is redundant.  Ryonaji, a Zen temple, was established in 1450.  It is famous for its rock garden which consists of 15 rocks placed on raked white pebbles.  Very simple yet very beautiful and serene.

Our second stop was at Rokuonji – also known as Kinkakuji – The Golden Temple.  This was truly amazing!  The temple is completely covered in gold leaf.  It was built by Yoshimitsu, the 3rd Shogun of Ashikaga beginning in 1397.

Our last stop of the day was at Daikakuji Temple.  This is an active Shingon Buddhist temple, formerly a detached palace of Emperor Saga, which was converted into the temple in 876.  We were allowed to walk through and see the various inside rooms.  We had to take off our shoes so as not to damage the grass woven mats (“tatami” mats) which cover the floor.  Also, as an FYI, it is considered impolite to wear your shoes when entering an individual’s home.  Again, it was an impressive site and we enjoyed our time there.

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An overview of the rock
garden at Ryonaji, a Zen temple
A closer view of the Ryonaji garden
(Note the raking and design in the pebbles)
Rokuonji or Kinkakuji
The Golden Pavillion

It's truly outstanding!

The grounds of Daikakuji Temple
The interior of the Daikakuji Temple
featuring inlaid room dividers
An adorned altar in Daikakuji Temple

[ T O P ]

2 September:  The first temple we visited was Ginkakuji – The Silver Temple.  Despite the temple’s name, it is a wooden structure.  It was supposed to have been covered in silver leaf (like Kinkakuji) but this never occurred.  It is nevertheless a beautiful wooden Zen temple. 

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Ginkakuji Temple
A glimpse into the Temple

Our next destination was the Heian Shrine.  Under the rule of the 50th emperor of Japan, Emperor Kammu, Kyoto became the Heian Capital.  This beautiful shrine commemorates the designation of Kyoto as the capital in 796.  While we were enjoying the shrine, we had another treat -- two women dressed in traditional kimono allowed us to photograph them.

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The Heian Shrine
Two women in traditional
garb - The Kimono

We next went to Toji.  The highlight at this temple is a beautiful five story pagoda.  It’s the highest in Japan, measuring 187 feet.  It was originally built in 826 with the last rebuilding due to fire being in 1644.  Pretty awesome engineering!  Inside are the temple’s famous Buddhas.

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The Toji Pagoda
Some of the many Buddhas
inside the Toji Pagoda

For our final stop of the day, we took the bus to a train depot and headed south to Inari.  There we visited the Fushimi Inari shrine.  It consists of more than 4KM of Tori which grace the side of a mountain.  “Tori” are gates comprised of two poles on each side with a pole across the top.  This was a site we had both seen in movies and on postcards.

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Entry into the Fushimi Inari Shrine
Individuals lighting incense at the Share
The Tori
Ed inside the Tori for a
perspective of the size of
the structure

[ T O P ]

3 September:  We previously had made an appointment to take a guided tour of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto.  It was the capital of Japan for over 1,200 years before the capital was moved to Tokyo in 1868.  The buildings were very impressive and we were allowed to walk through a great deal of the complex. 

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Interior view of the Shodaibunoma,
a waiting room for official visitors
to The Imperial Palace
A closer view of the silk screens
inside the Shodaibunoma
The Kogosho ceremontial hall
where the Emperor received
Shogun and Daimyo
The Otsunegoten was the Emperor's
residence until the capital was
transferred to Tokyo in 1869.
It contains 15 buildings.
A bridge in the Imperial Palace gardens

Afterwards we took a break from temples/shrines and visited the Kyoto Handicrafts Market.  Here we were able to watch local artisans make dolls, do block print painting and engraving with gold and silver inlay.  It was all very intricate art.

We ended our day by visiting the Nishi Hongwanji Temple.  Here we witnessed a Shin Buddhist ceremony while seated on tatami mats.  It was very beautiful and, of course, to us a bit different.  However, we found the lighting of the incense to be similar to the lighting of candles in the Catholic Church.

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Outside Nishi Hongwanji Temple
The interior of the Temple with
worshippers in front of the altar
The Temple's Altar
A closer view of the Altar
Lindy sitting on the beautiful
tatami mats found throughout the Temple

[ T O P ]

4 September:  We used our Japan Rail Pass to take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima.  The Shinkansen travels at more than 100MPH and you don’t even realize it because the ride is so smooth.  We then took a local train and subsequently a ferry to Miyajima Island.  There we visited the Itsukushima Shrine.  It is a Shinto shrine that sits on pillars over the sea.  It was built in 593 and subsequently expanded in 1168.  It is famous for its giant Tori which sits in the bay offshore to great its visitors.  It was a beautiful site and a wonderful adventure.  We also witnessed a traditional marriage ceremony.  If only we knew who the bride and groom were – we have 10 minutes of great video of the Shinto ceremony.

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Itsukushima's Tori Greets our Arrival
The arrival pier at the Itsukushima
Shrine complex
An overview of the Shrine complex
A view from the Itsukushima
Shrine looking back to its Tori
A Pagoda within the complex
The wedding party
The unknown Bridge and Groom

[ T O P ]

5 September:  We once again took a train (limited express) to visit the city of Nara.  Nara was Japan’s first capital.  Most of the temples and shrines are located in Nara Park (very different than in Kyoto where they are scattered around town).  So, we walked to the park from the train station.  We were met by the deer which are found throughout the park.  They are considered by some to be the messengers of the gods of Kasuga Taisha so they live in and about the park and are very tame.  We then visited the Kofukoji Temple complex.  It was a beautiful collection of buildings and pagodas.  Next we visited the most famous temple in Nara – Todaiji.  It is the Head Temple of the Kegon Sect of Buddhism.  It also is the largest wooden structure in the world and it contains a cast bronze statute of Buddha (along with two companions) that is ~50 feet tall.  Awesome!

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Kofukoji Temple
The Pagoda of the
Kofukoji Temple
Entry to the Hirmura Shrine
One of Kasuga Taisha's messengers
The famous Todaji Temple
A photograph of the Todaiji
Temple during festivals
The Buddha of Todaiji Temple
Lindy standing next to Buddha
(for a size perspective)

[ T O P ]

6 September:  Today we were in transit (Shinkansen and local train) to Takayama, located in the Japanese Alps.  It was a 3 hour ride once we reached our transfer station at Nagoya.  The ride was gorgeous as we wound up a canyon perched above a river.  When we arrived in early afternoon, it was raining.  However, we braved the elements and visited the Hida Kokubunki Temple.  The main temple building is the oldest structure in the city being constructed some 500 years ago.  There is a huge ginko tree over 1,200 years old which sits near a bell tower across from a pagoda.  Very impressive!  We then wandered an area called “Furui-Machi-nami”.  It’s an area of old private houses which are constructed of wood and rice paper.  It was so different and there were many Japanese tourists here too as they were experiencing how their ancestors lived in this town.

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The Pagoda in the Hida Kokubunki
Temple Complex
Outside the temple is a "prayer board";
after making a prayer a ribbon
is hung from the slated bars
A ceremonial bell in the
Hida Kokubunji Temple complex
Ed in front of the 1,200 year
old Ginko Tree
A pedway in Takayama
A view into the Furui-Machi-nami
neighborhood which contrasts
ancient buildings and modern amenities

[ T O P ]

7 September:  We had another great train ride back down the canyon and on to Nagoya where we spent our final night in Japan (at least for this trip).

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A view of the Nagoya skyline
Another view of the Nagoya skyline
which includes Nagoya Castle

Continue to our next stop -  KOREA