Myanmar 2014

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We had the pleasure of traveling to Myanmar (formerly known as Burma). After touring in the city of Yangon (Rangon), we then enjoyed a cruise on the Irrawaddy River followed by travel to Inle Lake and its environs. Our final days in Myanmar we spent in the lovely city of Mandalay. It was a wonderful adventure especially since Myanmar is still in its infancy with regard to tourism (in 2013 it had only slightly over two million visitors). We encourage you to visit soon! Our travel was arranged by Leo Liu of GoWay Travel prior to our departure from the US. Leo did an excellent job on this tour (as well as other tours he has booked on our behalf in China, Laos and Malaysia)! If you need assistance with touring in Myanmar or anywhere else in Asia, we highly recommend contacting Leo (leol@goway.com).

YANGON – 15 January through 16 January: Due to flight delays, we didn’t arrive in Yangon until about 2:00AM on the morning of the 16^th of January. We got a few hours sleep that day before beginning our touring. Highlights of our time in Yangon included:

Colonial Buildings Near Victory Park: We drove to the old center of Yangon and walked the area to photograph the few remaining old colonial buildings built during the British rule of Burma (now Myanmar). Most dated to the 1930’s. Also in this same area was Sule Pagoda. Sule Pagoda marks the exact center of Yangon.

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Royal Barge Hall: We visited a replica of the King’s barge on Kandawgyi Lake. It is used as a meeting hall. We also were able to get a glimpse of Shwedagon Pagoda, one of Rangon’s most impressive attractions, in the distance.

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Reclining Buddha: The Reclining Buddha is a huge statute over 75 meters (~247 feet) in length. Interestingly, it was the first Buddha we have seen with eyelashes. You feel the size when you are told that the iris of the eye is over six feet in diameter. The feet of the Reclining Buddha are inscribed with 108 distinguishing marks which depict different stages in his life.

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National Museum: No photographs are allowed but we were able to view many items/relics which survived the destruction of their original palace homes since they were moved to Great Britain during its rule over Myanmar. One of the most spectacular pieces is the Lion Throne. It was a royal throne that was absolutely stunning.

Shwedagon Pagoda: This pagoda is the symbol of Yangon. It is a huge complex with features a 100 meter (~328 feet) tall pagoda covered with gold leaf. The top spire is decorated with over 4,500 diamonds, the largest being a single 76 carat diamond. We visited late in the day so we were able to enjoy the complex in the late afternoon sun as well as under floodlights once it was dark. It was truly spectacular!

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	A statue of Buddha beneath a Banyan tree
	The Shwedagon Pagoda complex
	The Pagoda itself
	A beautiful statue of Buddha
	A close-up of the Pagoda spire with its diamonds
	A beautiful building in the complex
	A huge bell
	Lights illuminating the complex
	The Pagado under the floodlights

PANDAW CRUISE – 17 January through 24 January: We enjoyed an eight night cruise on the RV Orient on the Irrawaddy River. Each day was a combination of land touring and viewing sights along the river. Highlights included:

World War II Cemetery: To reach the RV Orient, we had a six hour bus ride to Prome (Pyay), our embarkation site. En route, we stopped at a World War II cemetery. It was a lovely, well-maintained facility. Most of those who were buried there served in the British military.

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Thiri-ya-kittiya (Sri Krestra), Pyu Colonial Heritage Region: While docked in Prome (Pyay), we took a bus tour around the city. We began at the Museum which contains artifacts from this area dating back to 200BC. The ancient Pyu cities of Halin, Beikthano and Sri Kresta were built over an area of about 13,000 hectares (~32,124 acres) if you include outlying areas. The whole complex was fortified. Although some villages still exist within the area, no new settlements are being allowed so as to maintain the integrity of this ancient area. It has been nominated to be on the World Heritage List and its artifacts attest to the likelihood that it will be added at some future date.

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	A sandstone relief of Taradevi and Attendants (4th - 9th Century)
	Stone Burial Jar for King Hari Vikrama who lived 41 years, 7 months & 9 days (as inscribed on the Jar) (4th - 9th Century)
	A bronze image of Buddha holding an alms bowl (4th - 9th Century)
	Quartz & Carnelian Beads (4th - 9th Century)

After visiting the Museum, we visited a pagoda built of fired red bricks. It was stunning despite the lack of gold foil or gold paint. That is, it was simple yet very elegant.

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Our last stop in the area was Shwe San Daw Pagoda. This is not part of the ancient city. It is a beautiful pagoda complex comprised of various temples, stupas and statutes of Buddha. We then boarded our ship and began our voyage. Seeing the huge Irrawaddy River and watching the sun set over it was the perfect way to finish our day.

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	Shwe San Daw Pagoda
	A bronze bell (it was once painted gold)
	A closer look at these beautiful buildings
	A large image of Buddha
	The delicate details of a building in the complex
	On board the RV Orient on The Irrawaddy River
	Sunset on The Irrawaddy

Thayet Myo: On the second day of our cruise, we stopped at the colonial town of Thayet Myo. Upon disembarking the RV Orient, we were taken by horse drawn carts to the town’s central market. It was a bustling place, especially on a Saturday morning. Afterwards we visited one of the oldest golf courses in Myanmar. Yes, it was brought by the British during their reign of the area.

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	A small village we pass in transit to Thayet Myo
	Transportation for locals who live along The Irrawaddy River
	A riverside Pagoda
	Us with our horse-drawn cart
	Women selling goods at the market's exterior (note how they wear traditional face adornment - Thanakha - a thick cream used as a sun block too)
	This market has an amazing variety of fresh produce
	Some non-food goods are for sell too
	A temple just outside the market
	Lindy on the putting green

Minhla: On our third day on the river, we made a stop mid-morning to visit the town of Minhla. We first stopped by one of two Italian-built forts meant to keep the British from further incursions into Myanmar. Although constructed in 1860, the fort was captured by the British in 1885. Afterwards we visited the bustling market in the center of town. We purchased some delicious oranges which we later shared with the RV Orient staff and some fellow passengers.

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	As we approach Minla, we see a large stupa
	Here is a Pagoda complex beside The Irrawaddy River
	Housing along the river
	We've arrived at the fort
	It's fortified interior
	Looking out from the fort to The Irrawaddy River
	Outside the market are all means of transportation
	It's definitely a busy place
	A young girl wearing the traditional Thanakha face art
	Lindy and the vendor who sold her the oranges
	A view of the local women doing laundry on the banks of The Irrawaddy

Myat-thalon Pagoda: Later that same afternoon, we visited Myat-thalon Pagoda in the town of Magwe. We reached the Pagoda via trishaw. The Burmese trishaw essentially is a bicycle with a passenger side car attached to it. Although it typically holds two passengers (one sitting forward; the other sitting towards the back), the side car held only one tourist (guess we’re a bit heavier and wider than the typical Burmese resident). Once at the Pagoda, we had to walk up 117 stairs to reach the complex. The Pagoda was very beautiful. Legend has it that the pagoda was constructed of solid gold bricks. Today, we know it is simply covered in gold leaf. Since it was a large complex, we enjoyed walking around it until sunrise. Then we were able to take a picture of the sun setting over the Irrawaddy River.

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Exploring Magwe: On the fourth day of our cruise, we explored the local market, including a clothing market. Many individuals took time to purchase a Longyi, the traditional “skirt” worn by both men and women. Afterwards, we once again rode in trishaws to do a brief tour of the town. We stopped at the statute of General Aung San where we learned a lot about the history of Myanmar and its ultimate struggle to obtain freedom from outside influences. At the end of our tour, we visited a local supermarket. It was very similar to one that we would see in other parts of the world.

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	The fishing net is about to hit the water
	A snap of our ship, the RV Orient Pandaw
	The morning market
	Chili's - one of our favorites
	Isn't she a cutie!
	Lindy and the individual from whom she bought her longyi
	The statue of General Aung San

Exploring Sale: Sale is a river-side village with a population of approximately 10,000 individuals. On the fourth day of our voyage, we walked through the village looking at the colonial buildings originally built by the Burmese Oil Company. Now many have been taken over as private residences and/or shops.

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	One of the colonial buildings
	This electrical pole is a bit scary
	This mother & child were both very welcoming to us
	Some more buildings built by the Burmese Oil Company
	Another view of Sale
	The streets are multi-purpose
	This woman is carrying items in the basket on her head while enjoying a cigar

One highlight of the tour was visiting the Yout-Saun-Kyaung Monastery. It is built of teak and contains extraordinary wood carvings. No monks occupy the monastery so we allowed throughout the complex.

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	Yout-Saun-Kyuang Monastery
	A closer look at the Nagga protecting the main entry
	The wood awnings and eaves are carved so delicately
	The decorative woodwork is amazing
	A continuation of the same depiction of a story outlined via woodworking
	Inside the Monastery
	Beautiful figures of Buddha

After doing some shopping, we visited the largest Buddha in Myanmar that is hollow and made of saw dust mixed with water. It was then covered with gold leaf. The Buddha originally had been located close to the Irrawaddy River and was caught up in a flood. However, due to its composition, it floated and ultimately it was rescued and moved to its current location. We also visited an area containing many stupas - most of which were in some state of disrepair - both they still were impressive.

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Kyi Taung: Also on the fourth day of our cruise we visited Kyi Taung. We began at a riverside village and continued to Tan Taung Mountain via jeep. From there we got our first glimpse of Bagan (albeit a bit of a hazy one). We did enjoy seeing a beautiful stupa at the top of the mountain. Afterwards we returned back to the Irrawaddy River a bit further down from our original point of disembarkation. There we watched an amazing “Elephant Dance” where two men are inside a beautiful and intricate elephant costume. They danced and performed while traditional music was played. It was very entertaining.

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	A view of the temples of Bagan from Tan Taung Mountain
	The beautiful stupa on Tan Taung Mountain
	Another view of the area
	The stupa and a side building
	This is an impressive statue at the stupa
	The Elephant Dance begins
	There are two men inside the costume; the front man is holding up them both using his arms (or elephant's legs)
	A great view of the beautiful costume
	The man in the white shirt (age 29) was the front Elephant dancer; the man in the yellow shirt (age 19) was the back Elephant dancer

Mr. Pandaw/Ms. Pandaw Contest: While we were under power one afternoon, everyone was introduced to the traditional Longyi, a skirt-like attire worn by both men and woman. Although looking alike at first glance, they are designed and worn differently. The costume for men typically is a plaid material and is worn with a knot in the front of the man’s body. The costume for women is fitted and then tucked in at the side of the waist. Afterwards, we learned about Thanakha face (and body) make-up worn by both men and women. It is a thick cream that is made by mixing the bark of the Thanakha tree with a little water. It is believed to have both skin care benefits and anti-fungal properties. One evening before dinner, everyone who was interested (male and female) donned a Longyi and competed in a contest for Mr. Pandaw (gentlemen) and Ms. Pandaw (ladies). There were lots of beautiful costumes and many women contestants used Thanakha (traditional face adornment). It was a fun night, especially when Lindy was given the title of Ms. Pandaw.

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Exploring Bagan: Bagan is an amazing city with some 3,000+ Buddhist temples and/or stupas. Our fifth morning of the cruise began by visiting some of the wonderful sights of this ancient area:

Shwesdandaw Stupa: At this 11^th century complex, we saw a very large Reclining Buddha. Afterwards, we walked up Shwesdandaw Stupa for a panoramic view of Bagan.

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	The large Reclining Buddha
	A closer view of the face of the Reclining Buddha
	Shwesdandaw Stupa
	The long walk to the top of the Stupa
	The stunning views begin
	Stupas at every view
	Ed on Shwesdandaw Stupa
	Another beautiful building - Anada Temple
	Again, another vista and amazing view
	Simply amazing!

Dhamayangyi Temple: This is the most massive temple in Bagan. It has the finest brick work without any mortar holding the bricks in place. The craftsmen were particularly careful because the individual who commissioned the work (a regional King) cut off the hands of the craftsmen if the bricks didn’t fit together perfectly. This sounds particularly terrible but this was an evil King. To attain the throne, he first killed his father. Then his elder brother to ensure he began king. Ultimately, his Queen (who was from India) asked to return to her home and she too was killed. Despite building such a massive temple, we don’t believe this evil King attained any special treatment in his after-life.

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Khemeinga Pagoda Complex: This was an area that was in a bit of disrepair but it provided a great place to walk around and take pictures of the various stupas. None were huge or covered with gold leaf but they still had their own beauty.

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Ananda Temple: Ananda Temple is a beautiful masterpiece temple in Bagan. It offers great architecture and artifacts. It also features some 18^th century paintings.

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Tharaba Gate: We stopped at this gate to say “hello” to Mr. Handsome and Ms. Golden Face. They adorn either side of the Gate.

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North Guni Temple: We went to North Guni Temple to enjoy views of Bagan just before sunset. We first stopped at another nearby temple for photographs as no one was visiting there. Afterwards, we continued to North Guni Temple. There were some great views but the interior also held some beautiful statues of Buddha.

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	The beautiful unknown temple
	A closer view
	A statue of Buddha in the unknown temple
	North Guni Temple from a distance
	Looking down from the Temple at a nearby pagoda
	An entryway into the Temple compound
	This porcelain Buddha is beautiful
	Looking out from a lower window in the Temple
	Statues and murals which decorate them
	More decorative figures

Puppet Show: After dinner we had the treat of seeing a live puppet show on the Sun Deck. It was great fun watching the puppeteers make the puppets come “alive.” The show lasted for about an hour and it presented various folklore stories. It was a very entertaining way to spend our evening while enjoying a nice breeze on a lovely evening.

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	The beautiful puppets on display pre-show
	The puppet show begins
	Two puppets in action with a glimpse of the puppeteer's arm at the top
	The number of movements the puppets achieved was amazing
	Again, the puppet costumes and movements were amazing
	The family of puppeteers who did a fabulous job

Shwezigon Stupa: We spent our sixth morning in Bagan where we visited Shwezigon Stupa, the most sacred stupa in Bagan. There were many, many pilgrims there. Interestingly, this stupa is built from bricks of sand stone that were transported there from the east of the country. Afterwards we visited the local market; always interesting.

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	As we left the RV Orient, we observed these women carrying heavy baskets of rock; that is tough work!
	We arrive at the beautiful Shwezigon Stupa
	Some of the beautiful buildings in the Stupa complex
	A closer view of the delicate rooflines
	A view of Shwezigon from the side
	A cut-out in the Stupa so that visitors can see the sand stone bricks from which the Stupa was constructed

Ohn Ne Kyuang: We were once again cruising at about 11:00AM. In the afternoon, we stopped at the village of Ohn Ne Kyuang. It was a nice contrast to be in the countryside since Bagan has many hawkers attempting to sell goods to tourists – foreign and Burmese. Our group donated supplies to the local school.

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	Our welcoming committee!
	Two young boys studying to become monks
	A family's living quarters
	The area where farm animals are kept
	Speaking of which..... this female pig and her offspring look content
	These ladies are making cattle food with a chop
	Chili's drying (one of our favorites)
	Isn't this hand-made wooden cart remarkable?!
	Interesting approach to street lights
	This game is being played with a ball made from reeds
	These school children line-up in rows in anticipation of receiving a set of school supplies
	The monks set about supervising distribution of the school supplies

Yandabo: On our final day of touring via the RV Orient, we stopped at the village of Yandabo. It is famous for its terracotta pottery. We enjoyed watching how it is made. Then we went to the Pandaw School, a local school established by the Pandaw Cruise Company.

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	As you can see, bricks are also made in Yandabo
	We are welcomed by a group of women & children
	A female potter
	This potter is making terracotta pots with a decorative edge
	Using this hammer, a female potter designs the bottoms of her pots
	A group of finished pots
	On an aside, this woman is harvesting peanuts
	This potter is making a smaller version of decorative pots
	A look inside the Pandaw School
	The Burmese alphabet and the English alphabet
	A great pose
	The children outside the school

INLE LAKE & ITS ENVIRONS - 25 January through 29 January: After disembarking from the RV Orient on January 25, we were driven to the Mandalay Airport. There we took a short flight to Heho, the closest city to Inle Lake. There we were met by our guide Thar Htwe (pronounced “That Way”) who would be our wonderful host throughout our explorations in this part of Myanmar. Highlights of our stay included:

Shwe Yan Pyay Kyuang Monastery: This Monastery is located before the township of Nyuang Shwe, the main town from which boats leave for Inle Lake. It is an active Monastery with many young monks undertaking studies there. The Monastery is a teak building dating to early 19^th century.

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Nyuang Shwe Market: Before proceeding to Inle Lake, we went by the local market in Nyuang Shwe. Our guide, Thar Htwe, purchased some crackers which we later used to feed seagulls who visit Inle Lake on a seasonal basis. The locals believe the birds bring good luck.

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Inle Lake: Inle Lake is accessed from the pier in Nyuang Shwe using local long boats. During our four night stay on the lake, we had the same boatman take us to/from various sites. He was an excellent and safe driver. As we motored to our hotel, the Myanmar Treasure Resort, we had our first glance of the famous “leg rowing” fisherman. Instead of rowing a boat using hand-held oars, these men row with one leg while they use their hands to either put in or take out fishing nets. It was quite the sight (see more below)!

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	The busy per in Nyuang Shwe
	One of the boats is off to the lake
	Those seagulls do love crackers!
	A leg-rowing fisherman on the horizon
	Our first view of the Myanmar Treasure Resort
	No motorized vehicles are allowed inside the area near the resort so a leg-rower hops onto our boat to row us to the dock at the Resort
	We're at Myanmar Treasure Resort
	Our bungalow over the water

Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda: This is the main pagoda on Inle Lake and it is a beautiful building. While there we were able to watch men purchase pieces of gold leaf which they subsequently placed on images of Buddha.

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Fishing Demonstrations/Fish Broker: Before beginning our day’s touring, we stopped to watch a local man using a wooden trap for fishing. He had some success while we watched. We also watched several “leg rowing” fishermen. They would actually slap the water with their oars to herd the fish toward waiting nets. Pretty neat idea! Afterwards we went to the lake’s edge to watch a fish broker buying the day’s catch from local fishermen. We were told the fish would be sold to local restaurants and perhaps even to restaurants/hotels in nearby towns.

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	The fisherman, his wooden trap and his assistant (probably his son)
	Dropping the trap
	We all wait
	Up comes the net as the fisherman keeps the boat in place by leg-rowing
	Success!

LEG-ROWING FISHERMEN

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	Two leg-rowing fishermen
	This man prepares his net
	Various fishermen are slapping the water with an oar to herd fish into their nets
	Another view of this practice of hitting the water with the oars to herd the fish
	Now that's a lot of effort!
	A bit of rowing while the net is once again readied

SELLING THE CATCH

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	The brokers wait for fishermen to bring their catch for sale
	And their selection of fish begins to grow
	A young fisherman is showing us the catch he and his father bring to the broker
	Lots and lots of small fish

Long-Neck Women Weavers: We left the main river and took a side canal until we reached the small Ywa Ma village. There we went to see a group of “Long-Neck Women” weavers. These women are members of the Kayan (or Padaung) minority. They decorate their necks with brass rings that elongate their necks, thus giving them the name “Long-Neck Women.” There were very gracious about allowing us to photograph them and we, in turn, purchased some of their lovely weavings.

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	Our ride begins in a narrow channel
	Now we're into more open water and houses and/or shops appear
	We're now in a village; see the power lines above the water
	One of the Kayan "Long-Neck Woman" with some of the ladies' weavings on display behind her (she wears an amazing number of neck rings)
	Two Kayan weavers at work
	A close-up view of one of the weavers; you can clearly see her many brass rings plus the traditional Thanakha

Shwe Inn Tain Pagoda/Pa-O Village Ceremony: We went to the western shore of Lake Inle to visit Shwe Inn Tain Pagoda. It is known that a small original stupa donated by King Siri Ohamma Sawka (273-272BC) in encased in the current Pagoda. We had to hike up a hill to reach the area. Before reaching the pagoda, we accessed numerous small temples and/or stupas. While many were in some state of disrepair, they still contain wonderful statutes and images of Buddha. It was truly amazing!

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As we continued to hike up to one stupa for an overview of the Pagoda, we were invited into the home of a Pa-O family for a brief rest. The Pa-O people comprise the seventh largest minority group in Myanmar. Traditional dress is still worn by most individuals. Men wear dark trousers and sometimes a turban while women wear a longyi and blouse and a head covering. While visiting with them Thar Htwe learned that there would be a “once-a-year” celebration later that afternoon as novice monks entered a local monastery. We finished our hike to a stupa overlooking the Shwe Inn Tain Pagoda. Afterwards, we walked down to and explored the beautiful Pagoda.

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	Two women of the Pa-O community welcome us
	Inside the compound of a home
	This little boy is dressed for the novice monk procession

We finished our hike to a stupa overlooking the Shwe Inn Tain Pagoda. Afterwards, we walked down to and explored the beautiful Pagoda.

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	Our quest for views - this hilltop stupa
	We made it!
	A view looking down on the complex
	The Pagoda complex
	The Pagoda is in back of these stupas
	A Reclining Buddha with other smaller statues of Buddha nearby
	This group of Pa-O women and children are leaving the Pagoda via its long staircase back down to the lakeside area

When we finished at Shew Inn Tain Pagoda, we went to the lakeside village of Inn Dain Khone to watch the celebration for the novice monks. The participants were all from a Pa-O village and most wore their traditional costumes and head dress. The celebration began with a procession of musicians with various instruments. Next came individuals carrying food offerings for the monastery. The next group of individuals carried flowers. Finally, being carried on the shoulders of a male, were the novice monks. Each had on a beautiful silk costume with a matching head dress. All and all, it was a very beautiful and moving celebration as these very young boys entered into the monastery.

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	The start of this very long procession
	These gentlemen are playing musical instruments in the procession
	These young men are bringing offerings to the monastery
	More offerings
	These women in beautiful traditional dress are bringing flowers
	Our first glimpse of the novice monks who will live & study at the monastery until they decide to return home or they decide to become a monk
	The procession is now circling near the monastery
	In the background, the young novice monks are clearly seen on the shoulders of a male relative while another male holds an umbrella overhead
	The young novice monks as they on their final approach to the monastery

[ T O P]

Floating Gardens: One of the amazing things at Inle Lake is the abundance of floating gardens. These gardens grow vegetables such as tomatoes, cucumbers and beans. Other gardens also grow flowers (which are used for offerings and/or decorations). Other crops – like rice, corn, garlic and onion – are grown in the fields nearby the lake.

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	One of the many floating gardens on Inle Lake
	A closer view reveals the rows of vegetables with canals in between
	At this home, tarot leaves are being dried
	New tomato plants are under the protective cloth
	These are fully grown tomato plants
	Here's a close-up of tomatoes on the vine

Nga Hpe Kyuang Temple: This Temple is filled with statutes of Buddha dating from the 13^th through 16^th centuries. They were all amazing and beautiful to see. The Temple is a wooden structure that has been carefully maintained over the years.

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	The interior of Nga Hpe Kyuang Temple
	A beautiful Reclining Buddha
	Another altar with fresh flowers in front of the statue of Buddha
	This statue is a bit different in style
	This is a beautiful statue of Buddha with an umbrella overhead

Artisan Villages: We had a great day visiting various floating villages, each of which specializes in a specific production. First, we went to a village of silversmiths. Here Lindy was able to purchase a great sterling silver necklace and earrings both featuring a moving fish. Perfect for a fly fishing angler! Next, we visited a market while we were in transit to our next stop. Subsequently, we boated over to Paw Khone, a village specializing in silk weaving. Next we went to Nan Pan village. Here we began by looking at the boat building trade. Afterwards, we went to a small store to watch local cigar (cheroot) making. It was an especially nice stop since Thar Htwe’s wife and family live and work in the village. We finished our time in Nan Pan by taking a boat ride around the village in wooden dug-outs which were rowed by local women. A nice finishing touch. Lastly, we went to the lake-side village of Mein Thauk to see how sugar-cane is grown and processed.

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	The Silversmith's Shop we visited
	These men are hard at work
	This artisan works on delicate design work
	Using an old-fashioned (but effective) bellows
	A work table with silver beadwork

LOCAL MARKET

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	An unknonw plant is cut so that fibers can be extracted
	The process continues
	The resulting fibers are put onto rolls for use in weaving
	The rolls then attached to a hand-loom
	A weaver at work

NAN PAN VILLAGE - BOAT BUILDING

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	A dug-out by planks used for building larger boats
	Several boats in various stages of completion
	This boat is almost complete
	Two men hand-sawing planks

NAN PAN VILLAGE - CIGAR (CHEEROT) PRODUCTION

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	Women sorting tobacco leaves
	Women at various stages of production
	She's preparing the outer covering
	Tobacco being inserted inside
	The finished product
	Our guide and his lovely wife

NAN PAN VILLAGE - TOUR IN WOODEN DUG-OUTS

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	We begin our tour with Thar Htwe showing off his leg-rowing skills in the dug-out he and Mark are sharing
	These school girls are going back to school after a lunch break
	Us in our dug-our in Nan Pan Village
	Another shot which includes us and Mark in his dug-out
	An interesting building which turns out to be the.....
	Nan Pan Post Office

MEIN THAUK

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Excursion to Kakku: We had a day excursion to Kakku where approximately 2,478 stupas of various shapes and sizes are neatly arranged in rows. The stupas are believed to be built beginning in the Third Century when Buddhist missionaries from India arrived in the area. Before going to Kakku, we first stopped in the capital of the Shan State, Donge, to pick up a local Pa-O guide, Ms. Mun. Kakku is surrounded by Pa-O villages and a Pa-O guide must accompany all guests. Before proceeding on to Kakku, we stopped at the Donge market. Always an interesting experience.

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Kakku is simply an amazing site! It is hard to describe how impressive it is to see the numerous and varied styles of stupas. It is truly amazing and we are so glad that we had the opportunity to visit!

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	The Kakku Complex
	A reflecting pool inside Kakku
	Row upon row of this beautiful stupas, tile walkways and landscaping
	The carvings are very intricate
	Us with Ms. Mun (notice how we are barefoot because we are visiting a holy site)
	A happy Buddha carefully covered with decorative cloth
	Another view of the intricate design and carving of a stupa
	A close-up of figures on the stupa above which were once painted
	A beautiful bronze bell
	The elephant supports this stupa
	Another statue of Buddha with two painted Guardians on either side
	A reclining Buddha in one of the stupas
	Other Pa-O members who work at Kakku; Ms. Mun, our local guide, is on the left

On our return route home, we stopped at one of the nearby Pa-O villages to look around.

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	A home in the Pa-O Village (the walls are woven)
	The interior of the house
	Another view of the interior
	These women are working making bricks (we're not sure what they will be used for)
	Two young children
	Women working in the fields near the Pa-O VIllage

Lastly, we stopped again in Donge to drop off Ms. Mun and also visit the Donge Pagoda. It too was quite nice.

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Excursion to Pindaya Caves/Kalaw: Our second excursion in the Shan State was to visit each of the Shwe Oo Min Natural Cave Pagoda at Pindaya as well as Kalaw, originally founded as a hill station by the British wanting to escape the heat. En route to Pindaya, we passed through some of the most fertile farm land in Myanmar. We came across many Danu women, members of one of Myanmar’s ethnic groups, harvesting wheat. It was amazing that it was all done by hand.

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	A young boy herding water buffalo
	Female members of the Danu minority are harvesting wheat
	As you can see, all harvesting is done by hand
	Look at the hand tool used to cut the wheat
	The girls actually tie up each bundle of harvested wheat
	Here's some of the crop

Upon our arrival at Pindaya, we went immediately to the Cave Pagoda. There were thousands of statues of Buddha adorning the cave walls. Some were large; others small and they ranged from being centuries old to new. Many pilgrims leave a Buddha statue when visiting the Cave Pagoda.

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	Looking up at the entry to the Pindaya Cave Pagoda
	Looking down from the Cave Pagoda onto the nearby stupas
	Inside the cave with its many statues of Buddha
	Another part of the Cave filled with statues of Buddha
	Some of these statues are donated from locations outside of Myanmar (look for the one from Russia)
	A beautiful draped statue of Buddha
	A large Buddha statue
	This statue of Buddha is protected by a Nagga

Afterwards we visited an umbrella factory in Pindaya. As we left the area to reach Kalaw, we came across another group of Danu peoples who were thrashing wheat. This time both men and women contributed to the effort.

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	A woman preparing material to make paper
	Now the material is placed in water in a tight screen to dry
	Parchment paper used to make umbrellas
	This man fashions the wooden handles
	Here's a close-up view of the delicate handle
	Both male and female members of the Danu minority participate in thrashing of the wheat
	Now the work begins
	The end result is separated grain

Our timing for arrival at Kalaw was perfect. The train was at the Kalaw station so we were able to watch see people board before it went one to its next stop. As you can see, the train was an old diesel train built by the British. It had seen better days but was still functional. Afterwards, we did drive through town to look at some of the remaining Colonial buildings.

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	The Kalaw Train Station
	The train arrives
	This is an original car which was part of the train now and when it was built by the British
	Now the train is jammed with individuals getting on in Kalaw
	Vendors sell food products as it's a long ride at slow speeds
	The green flag to leave Kalaw
	A colonial house in the town of Kalaw

MANDALAY – 30 January through 1 February: After our touring in the Inle area, we returned to Heho for a short flight to Mandalay. We were met by our guide, Hla May (pronounced “Lamé”), our hostess for the next three days. Highlights of our stay included:

Mahamuni Pagoda: Mahamuni Pagoda is a beautiful Buddhist complex that was built in 1784. It houses one of the most famous Buddha images in Myanmar, a seated Buddha which is 13 feet tall and made of bronze. However, none of the bronze is visible as the statue is covered with gold leaf which is applied by pilgrims (male only) who visit the Pagoda.

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	Mahamuni Pagoda
	Another view of this beautiful Pagoda
	The seated Buddha statue which is now covered in gold leaf (pilgrims as seen applying it)
	Another small but beautiful building in the complex
	Even a monk cannot resist giving this bronze a pat

Mandalay Royal Palace: The Mandalay Royal Palace is the last palace used by the Burmese monarchy. It was constructed between 1857 and 1859 as part of the founding of the new royal capital city of Mandalay. The Palace grounds are surrounded by four two-kilometer walls which form a perfect square. Then a moat surrounds the entire complex. The Palace contains many beautiful buildings with delicate roof lines. There were some informational displays. There also were several places where you could enjoy nice vistas of the buildings.

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	The fortified walls of the Royal Palace
	We've officially arrived
	This is one of the many Palace buildings with beautiful and delicate roof lines and trim
	All the Palace buildings are amazing
	We were able to get this view from another tall building within the Palace
	It's quite an amazing and beautiful complex - definitely designed for royalty

Shwenandaw Kyuang (Golden Palace Monastery): The monastery is a beautiful wooden monastery built out of teak. It is called the Golden Palace Monastery because it used to be completely gilded. It has beautiful, intricate wood carvings. Some of the interior altar rooms remain gilded.

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	Shwenandaw Kyuang
	A closer view of the amazing wood carvings
	An interior altar that is in a room that has retained some gilding
	Another beautiful room with huge teak pillars
	A monk enjoying the complex
	The ceiling of this room remains almost totally intact with gilding
	More of the amazing carvings that are found throughout The Golden Palace

Kuthodaw Pagoda/Sutaungpyei Pagoda: Kuthodaw Pagoda, located at the foot of Mandalay Hill, is a Buddhist stupa. The main building is surrounded by 729 stupas which contain stone tablets that and inscribed on both sides with text of Buddhist teachings. These stone tablets are considered to be one of the world’s “largest books”. Sutaungpyei Pagoda, atop Mandalay Hill, is an open terrace decorated with ceramic tiles and it features various altars and prayer rooms. It also provides great views and is wonderful place to see the sunset over the Irrawaddy River.

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	Some of the 729 stupas which surround Kuthodaw Pagoda
	One of the stone tablets comprising one of the world's "largest books"
	Another view of the beautiful stupas
	Look beyond the stupas to see Kuthodaw Pagoda
	The beautiful Kuthodaw Pagoda
	An interior area at Sutaungpyei Pagoda
	Sunset as seen from Sutaungpyei Pagoda with The Irrawaddy River in the foreground

U Beinas Bridge/Morning Alms: U Beinas is a teak footbridge stretching ~1,200 meters across Taungthaman Lake. It was built by salvaging unwanted teak columns during the move of the royal palace from Amarpura to the newly created royal city of Mandalay. After visiting the bridge, we had the privilege of watching young monks on their morning alms – a walk during which they receive foo or monetary donations from individuals in the area near their monastery. In this particular case, the monastery also had some food stuffs to distribute to the monks as well. Aftewards we enjoyed some of these young men enjoying a hearty meal.

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	U Beinas Foot Bridge
	The procession of young monks begins
	Each monk carries a bowl in which he receives donations of food (primarily rice)
	Once inside the monastery, the young monks are also given additional items such as fresh fruit
	These young men are enjoying a hearty meal

Umin Thonse Pagoda (30 Caves Pagoda): We visited the town of Sagaing, located on the Irrawaddy River, 20km southwest of Mandalay. The area in and around Sagaing is known for its many Buddhist monasteries. Once there we visited the Umin Thonse Pagoda. The grounds and many Buddha images within the Pagoda are stunning. Probably the most recognized aspect of the Pagoda are its 45 Buddha images that sit in a crescent-shaped formation inside the Pagoda.

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Apart from the Pagoda itself, we enjoyed great views of numerous temples and/or stupas in the Sagaing area. We also had a great view of a British built, 16 span bridge, crossing the Irrawaddy River.

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Awa (Inwa): We visited Awa, one of the former capitals of Myanmar. It too is located a short distance from Mandalay. Once there, we used horse-drawn carts to visit three sites: Yadana Hsemee Pagoda; Bagaya Pagoda; and Me Nu Oak Kyuang – each of which is described below.

Yadana Hsemee: This is a group of small stupas and statues of Buddha. Most are in disrepair after massive earthquakes hit Awa in 1839.

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	Our method of travel on Awa
	Some of the buildings in Yadana Hsemee
	A beautiful statue of Buddha
	A brick stupa
	These look like twin stupas - the back one still retains its umbrella
	This stupa has both an image of Buddha as well as an umbrella atop its spire
	On either side of the large statue of Buddha are Hla May and Lindy
	Some of the Pagoda walls are standing despite some severe damage

Bagaya Monastery: This teak-wood Monastery was built in 1834. It contains 267 gigantic teak posts measuring 60 feet high and 9 feet in circumference. It is considered to be a storehouse of Myanmar cultural heritage.

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	The beautiful teak building (with its stone entry) - The Bagaya Monastery
	Hla May by a teak post; you can appreciate its circumference
	A view of a tall spire at the Monastery
	The Monastery is primarily an open-air building with amazing carvings
	Students studying in a classroom at the Monastery
	A lovely image of Buddha

Me Nu Oak Kyuang (Maha Aung Mye Bonzan Monastery): This Monastery, popularly known as the “Brick Monastery” was built in 1822. What sets it apart is that unlike most traditional Burmese monasteries, it is constructed using masonry.

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	Me Nu Oak Kyuang
	Another view of this imposing Monastery
	Some other buildings in the complex
	This elevated stupa is quite elegant
	A porcelain statue of Buddha
	Looking from one building out to another
	And here's a view of the building that we glimpsed in the picture above
	A beautiful interior hallway

Kaung Mu Daw Pagoda: This Pagoda is located between Mandalay and Monywa. It is a well-known Stupa in the Sagaing area. It originally was white-washed but it now is painted gold. It’s modeled after the Great Stupa in Sri Lanka. The Pagoda was built to commemorate Awa’s establishment as the royal capital of Myanmar.

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Bodhi Tahtaung (Bodhi Tree Forest) Pagoda/Po Khuang Taung: Bodhi Tahtaung has 1,000 Bodhi Tree with each having an image of Buddha sitting under an umbrella beneath it. It was established in the 1960’s.

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	One large statue of Buddha welcomes us to Bodhi Tahtaung
	A view of the Bodhi Trees with an image of Buddha sitting under an umbrella beneath it
	A closer look at the statues of Buddha

Po Khaung Taung is a short stroll away from the Bodhi Tree Forest. It features a huge standing Buddha as well as a large Reclining Buddha.

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Sambuddhe Kat Kyaw Pagoda: Construction of this beautiful complex was begun in 1301 and ended in 1313. The complex contains many, many images of Buddha. Some are large statutes while others are tiny statutes which adorn the walls around the larger statute of Buddha. At one entry to the complex there are two elephants, each with a small pagoda on its back. Very impressive!

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	Sambuddhe Kat Kyaw Pagoda
	Another view of the Pagoda
	Inside the Pagoda are large statues of Buddha with smaller statues nearby
	If you look carefully at the large statues of Buddha, you'll see smaller statues of Buddha inset beside them
	Small statues extend all the way to the ceiling
	A large and beautiful statue of Buddha
	A close-up view of that same statue of Buddha so that you can easily see the smaller statues of Buddha which surround it

In summary, as our photographs attest, Myanmar is a lovely and impressive country. There are many, many attractions to be enjoyed. The people are very warm, friendly and welcoming! Put Myanmar on your list of amazing places to be visited!!

	The Town Hall which was built in 1937
	Telegraph Office
	Supreme Court Building
	Bank Street
	Sule Pagoda

	Ed on his trishaw
	Myat-Thalon Pagoda
	A view of the Pagoda and a beautiful side building
	Prayers
	This Civil Engineering student came over to practice her English with foreign guests
	Sunset on The Irrawaddy River

	The Buddha image made of sawdust mixed with water which subsequently was covered in gold leaf
	A look inside of the hollow sawdust/water statue of Buddha
	Nearby stupas
	Another group of stupas

	The ladies
	The gentlemen
	Ko San, our guide, showing the ladies how they should dance
	Lindy performs
	The winners (Mr. Pandaw and the three top Ms. Pandaw winners)

	The entry to Dhamayangi Temple
	Remnants of murals on the interior walls
	A view down a corridor
	Inside a Temple courtyard
	The brickwork is amazing!
	Now an altar for images of Buddha sits inside the Temple

	Us with the Royal Barge Hall in the background
	The entry to the Royal Barge Hall
	A view of Shwedagon Pagoda in the distance

	The Reclining Buddha
	A close-up of the face of the Buddha statue

	This signage attests to the gratitude for the lives lost from 1939 through1945
	An elegant cross
	The rows of those buried during the conflict in Burma (now Myanmar)

	The Khemeinga Pagoda Complex
	Another view
	A farmer passes through the complex
	Picture perfect with these blooms in the foreground
	The pagoda in the foreground is definitely leaning

	Anada Temple
	A statue of a dancer
	A large statue of Buddha
	Smaller images of Buddha inset in the walls by the larger statue of Buddha
	Another beautiful statue

	Shwe Yan Pyay Kyuang Monastery
	Young monks studying inside the Monastery
	A beautiful statute of Buddha
	This draped statue of Buddha also includes an umbrella
	The detailed design of the interior ceiling of the Monastery

	Nyuang Shwe Market
	Truly fresh fish
	One woman is cleaning fish (left) while the other has some eels to sell

	Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda
	The intricate interior ceiling of the Pagoda
	Gold leaf being placed on images of Buddha
	The Pagoda's ceremonial boat used during festivals
	A woman rowing her dugout along the reeds

	Some of the many stupas in the area
	This building remains beautifully decorated
	Another large building in the area
	One of the statues of Buddha we found

	Look at those yummy tomatoes grown in a floating garden
	Garlic - very popular in Myanmar
	Wonderful chili's
	Non-produce items being sold

	As we approach Mein Thauk we see these hard-working women
	A local and his work team
	Harvested sugar cane
	A machine to extract the sugar cane juice
	Processing the extract from the sugar cane

	Ms. Mun, our local Pa-O Guide
	Dried fish are a big business in Donge
	Lots of fresh vegetables from the countryside
	Clothing and material for sewing
	Chili's and spices

	The Donge Pagoda
	The beautiful Buddha inside Donge Pagoda
	A side-view of the complex

	Umin Thonse Pagoda
	Beautiful statues of Buddha
	Another view of the Pagoda
	This large statue of Buddha occupies an entire room
	A beautiful golden stupa in the complex
	Another beautiful image of Buddha

	A view of another temple from Umin Thonse
	In the direction of The Irrawaddy River, we saw even more temples from Umin Thonse
	In the distance, the British-built bridge crossing The Irrawaddy River

	Kaung Mu Daw Pagoda
	A Buddha image with a neon halo around the head of Buddha (a new concept)
	Kaung Mu Daw Pagoda

	The statues at Po Khaung Taung
	The Reclining Buddha with a glimpse of the Standing Buddha
	A closer view of the Standing Buddha