T A I W A N   2 0 1 3

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            We visited Taipei in 2007, but it was only for a few days and we didn’t take time to explore any other cities in Taiwan.  So, this year we returned to Taipei and then used Taiwan’s high-speed rail to see each of Taichung and Kaohsiung.  You can either read about Taiwan directly below or skip to either of the other cities by clicking on their respective links above. 

Taipei – 6 April through 12 April:  We spent seven nights in Taipei using the Dong Wu Hotel as our basis.  Highlight this trip included: 

National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall:  The Memorial Hall has its own metro stop so it was quite easy to locate.  The area is actually a complex with a huge gate, the Memorial Hall, a Concert Hall and a Theater and gardens.  The area was crowded due to it being a weekend but not unmanageable.  The highlight is, of course, the Memorial Hall.  In the center is a large bronze statute of Chiang Kai-shek.  On either side are two honor guards who stand motionless and expression-less.  We timed our visit so that we were able to watch the elaborate “changing of the guard” ceremony which occurs every hour on the hour.  Yes, it was quite spectacular.  Afterwards we wandered among the gardens.

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The Complex entry

The Concert Hall
The beautiful Memorial Hall
The bronze statute of Chiang Kai-Shek
in the Memorial Hall
One of the two honor guards
by the statute of Chiang Kai-Shek
The "Changing of the Guard" ceremony
More of the Ceremony
All movements during the
Ceremony are very precise
 A view of the CKS Complex
from the Memorial Hall
One of the gardens in the Complex

[ T O P ]

 Taipei Zoo:   We spent an entire day at the Taipei Zoo.  We specifically decided not to visit on the weekend since we thought it would be very crowded.  It was a wise decision because we saw where queues would be formed to view some of the exhibits, especially the panda compound.  We were fortunate to be at that compound when it was feeding time.  While the panda was in an outdoor compound, its handlers put out treats for the panda to locate (i.e., pieces of fruit hung from wire and/or placed on its swing and other areas; fresh bamboo in a series of stashes, etc.).  Once the panda was allowed back into its indoor area, it immediately set about finding the various treats.  We were able to get some great photographs! 

The zoo is quite large and we walked through every exhibit area.  Most were large compounds where the animals had room to roam and explore.  As the day progressed, the zoo became more crowded (as we had expected).  When we reached the end of the zoo, we had to walk back almost about ¾ of a mile to reach the entry gate!  So, it’s definitely a large zoo with lots of animals to see. 

 

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We're at the Zoo!
(Beautiful Topiary!)

A Giant Panda enjoying a treat
Who can resist that face?!
A friend from Australia - a cuddly Koala Bear
A young male Elephant
A beautiful TIger
This Chimp is on a mission
with a leafy treat in its mouth
This Baboon sticks its
tongue out at us
The Zoo is successfully breeding
White Rhino's as you can see Mom & her calf
Aren't these guys cute?!
They are Ring Tailed Lemurs

[ T O P ]

Costco:  We had a quest…. to visit one of the three Costco stores located in Taipei.  We had previously done some research on how to reach the stores and we decided to go to the Chung Ho store because it was located near the end of a bus route. 

We began by taking a long metro ride to the south part of Taipei.  Once we got out of the metro, we caught bus no. 5.  The staff at the Dong Wu Hotel had written Costco’s name in Chinese characters and the bus driver nodded that we were on the correct bus after showing him the paper.  As we approached the end of the route, he pointed to the left and we saw the Costo.  It was a 3 minute walk from the bus stop to the store.  Costco was doing a booming business.  We took a few photographs of the store and also the tasting ladies (who were for the same company as the tasting ladies in the US) and then we did some shopping – wine at great prices as well as some chocolates to take back to China.  As we checked-out, we asked the clerk to hold a sign which said “Hello Doug” while Ed snapped a quick photo.  Doug is one of the key check-out clerks at the Costco we patronize at home so we thought he would get a kick out of the photograph. 

Afterwards we stopped at the Food Court for a soda and some people-watching.  The regular food items are available (i.e., hot dogs, soda, sandwiches) but this store features Clam Chowder and it was a big favorite of the lunch-time crowd.  Also, the primary pizza was seafood (rather than pepperoni).  So, we bought a couple of slices to take back to the hotel for dinner (and, yes, it was yummy!).

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The bilingual entry to Costco Chung No

The Bakery Department
(looks just like it does at home
except for the Korean language characters)
The "Tasting Ladies"
Our check-out clerk holding the
"Hello Doug" sign (she was a
true sport!)
A sign in the Food Court; notice the
expected "hot dog" but the unusual
"clam chowder" (at least unusual in the US)

[ T O P ]

Taroko National Park:  It was an early morning for us as we had pre-arranged for a day tour of Taroko National Park.  We were picked up at 5:45AM and then we went to another hotel to pick up a second American couple.  We were then driven to Songshan Airport (the city airport) where we met two Canadian girls who completed our group of six tourists.  The driver then collected our passports to get us seat assignments on a flight to Hualien, the town closest to the National Park.

Our 7:00AM flight arrived in Hualien at 7:40AM.  As soon as we landed we were met by our guide, Josephine.  She quickly took the group to an awaiting van where our female driver was ready to whisk us into the park.

The drive through town went quickly and we soon began our drive through the Park.  It was a rainy and dreary day so it gave the Park a bit of a mysterious atmosphere.  Taroko National Park is famous for its beautiful gorge and the Liwu River which flows through it.  It’s a combination of winding roads and tunnels which have sheer marble cliffs with spectacular views.  While the clouds hid part of those views, it also made for some great photographic opportunities.  Early in the drive, we stopped to see the Eternal Spring Shrine.  It is one of the most photographed scenes in the Park.  The shrine was built to memorialize those who lost their lives during the construction of the roadway.

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Us at the entry to
Taroko National Park

A mysterious combination of
clouds, mountains and water
The Liwu River
Eternal Springs Shrine

After driving further into the gorge, we had to don hard-hats to walk through part of the Tunnel of Nine Turns since marble and/or rocks seem to constantly fall.  Thankfully, we didn’t see any of this first-hand.  Instead, we were able to enjoy the beauty of this area.  Many of the hiking trails in the Park begin in this area.  After returning our hard hats, we continued on the road through the Park.  We made several stops so that everyone had opportunities to take photographs.  Shortly after noon, we stopped at a hotel restaurant and enjoyed a delicious traditional lunch with multiple courses.  Near the hotel was a shrine that we were able to visit.

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A view from within the
Tunnel of Nine Turns

This long-distance view shows how
individuals walk through the Tunnel of
Nine Turns which parallels one of the
many rivers in the Park
A small shrine perched above a river
A wooden foot bridge
Us out on the bridge
Our lunch spot, a lovely hotel
A shrine near our luncheon spot
The entry to the shrine
A beautiful and welcoming Buddha

[ T O P ]

Afterwards, we took the same route back into town.  The rain really began to fall as we left the park.  So, that was it for our touring.  Josephine and our driver took us to the railway station where we boarded a local train to return to Taipei.  Since the train wasn’t an express train, it took about three hours to get to the Taipei Main Station.  As we got off the platform, we were met by the man who picked us up earlier in the morning and he returned us to the Dong Wu Hotel after a very full day of touring.

Ma-tsu Temple/Xia Cheng Huang Temple:  Ma-tsu Temple which is almost directly across the street from the Dong Wu Hotel.  It is an ancient temple which was rebuilt in 1866 and again in 1914 (we couldn’t find out exactly when it originally was constructed).  Ma-tsu was a woman who was born in the Fujian Province of China in 960.  She was a benevolent woman who studied Buddhism and was supposed to have acquired supernatural powers.  She is referred to as “Heavenly Mother Ma-Zu” (Zu is used interchangeably with Tsu).  She now is considered to be the protective Goddess of Taiwan and people come to the temple to pay homage to her and to pray for good luck.

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The entry into Ma-tsu Temple

Beautiful roof decorations
Temple Protectors
Incense burning inside the Temple
Temple decorations
The Temple altar

We then walked about 15 minutes to reach the Xia Cheng Huang Temple.  It was built in 1859 to worship the Moon God.  Unfortunately, we were not able to take any photographs of the temple exterior as it was covered by banners and appeared to be going under renovation.   

The Moon God is the god in charge of Marriage Arrangement.  People believe that lovers who make wishes to the Moon God will marry and live happy lives.  There were many people there making offerings and/or burning incense.  The temple also sold special amulets and different types of special gifts to the Gods (i.e., flowers, candles and some special type of reusable ornamental baskets).  The temple also offered free cups of “blessed tea” which most pilgrims took a moment to enjoy.  We wandered through several of the offering rooms in the temple and we were able to take photographs when individuals weren’t offering prayers.  It was an interesting place.  While we were there a group of school children also came for a visit.  We assume it was part of learning about their culture.

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One of the beautiful statutes/icons
found in Xia Cheng Huang Temple

An altar and decorations
A beautiful stone altar
Protectors and icons

[ T O P ]

             Confucius Temple/Baoan Temple:  We took the metro to reach the Dalongdong area of Taipei, one of the oldest communities in Taipei, to visit two temples – Confucius Temple and Baoan Temple. 

The Confucius Temple was built in 1879.  It is actually a beautiful collection of buildings.  Originally, the compound was established to serve as the largest educational center in northern Taiwan.  It now serves primarily as a place to learn more about Confucius and his teachings.  Every September 28th, the Temple holds a Confucius birthday ceremony that is well-known and attracts attendees from both Taiwan and China.

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The outer wall of Confucius Temple

Lingzing Gate
Roof decorations on Lingzing Gate
Yi Gate further into the Complex
Ta Cheng Hall
The altar in Ta Cheng Hall
The ceiling in Ta Cheng Hall
Chongsheng Shrine
The interior of Chongsheng Shrine

[ T O P ]

After enjoying the Confucius Temple, we walked across the street to visit Baoan Temple.  Baoan Temple is a Taoist temple that was completed in 1830.  The temple’s main deity is the emperor Baosheng, the god of medicine.  The temple is amazing and the decorations throughout it are very beautiful!  It received recognition in the 2003 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Awards.  Very impressive indeed!

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The gate into Baoan Temple

The interior courtyard of Baoan Temple
The main Temple building
A beautiful altar
Another altar area
Deities and candles
The Temple Drum Tower
(with a modern building in the background)
The Temple Bell Tower
The beautiful roof lines and
alleyways in the Temple

[ T O P ]

Taichung – 13 April through 16 April:   We reached Taichung using Taiwan’s high speed rail system.  On our arrival, we took a bus to the Holiday Inn Express Taichung Park, our home for the next four nights.  Highlights of our touring in Taichung included: 

Sun Moon Lake:  Today we took a bus outside the city to reach Sun Moon Lake.  It is sometimes referred to as the “Pearl of Central Taiwan.”  It is the largest natural lake in Taiwan and it is in a beautiful mountain setting.  The weather was a bit overcast but the temperature was perfect and we didn’t have any rain.  Many companies offer boat tours of the lake but we opted to do a short hike.  Interestingly, we chose a trail that led to an area frequented by Chiang Kai-shek.  We came across a pavilion dedicated to him as well as his personal boat and dock.  It attests to what a pleasant retreat the lake provides when compared to the hectic surroundings of most cities.

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Lindy at signage at Sun Moon Lake

A view of Cihen Pagoda & Syuanzang Temple
A Pavilion frequented by Chiang Kai-shek
A small wooden boat used
by Chiang Kai-shek when he visited
Sun Moon Lake
Mr. Chiang Kai-Skek's
A fishing boat with its net up
and shrines in the background
Ed in a bamboo forest

[ T O P ]

            Confucius Temple/Martyr’s Shrine:  The Confucious Temple was within walking distance of our hotel.  It was a very beautiful complex with numerous gates and buildings.  There were very few other visitors so it was nice to wander through the complex at a leisurely pace. 

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Lingzing Gate is the first gate entering
the Confucius Temple complex; it is
generally open only during the Shidian ceremony

This is the Great Perfection Gate
The ornately decorated Great
Perfection Hall
Musical instruments just outside the
entry into the Hall
The beautiful interior of
Great Perfection Hall
The Sage's Shrine
The interior of the Sage's Shrine

            Afterwards, we walked to the nearby Martyr’s Shrine.  It too was a beautiful complex!

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The entry into the Martyr's Shrine

The Martyr's Shrine
A pavilion in the complex
A glimpse of the Old Town
outside the Martyr's Shrine/
Confucius Temple area

[ T O P ]

On an aside, in the early afternoon we were surprised to hear air raid sirens begin to go off.  Immediately all traffic disappeared from the streets as did anyone traveling by bike or on foot.  We quickly returned to the hotel.  Once inside we asked what was going on and were told this was a “once a year” event.  Amazing that these still occur! 

Kaohsiung – 17 April through 20 April:   We traveled to the southernmost city of Taiwan, Kaohsiung, again via the high speed train.  We were then able to take the metro to the Kaohsiung Main Station.  From there, it was about a 15 minute walk to the Holiday Hotel, our home for the next five evenings.  Highlights of our visit here included:

            Dome of Light:  We walked back to the Main metro station.  From there, we went to the Formosa Boulevard Station, which serves as a transfer station for the Red Line and Orange Line.  Here, we saw the beautiful Dome of Light.  The dome is the world’s largest public art installation made from individual pieces of colored glass.  The work was created by Narcissus Quagliata and took nearly four years to complete. 

The dome is huge – it has a 30 meter diameter – so photographing it was a bit of a challenge.  It is divided into four themes which depict the story of human life.  The themes are:  Water: The Womb of Life; Earth: Prosperity and Growth; Light: The Creative Spirit; and Fire: Destruction and Rebirth, with an overall message of love and tolerance.  It has now made this transfer station on the metro into a well-known tourist attraction.

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A view of the Dome of Lights

Another view from a different location

[ T O P ]

Lotus Pond:  We found a local bus to reach Lotus Pond.  Lotus Pond is a man-made lake that is surrounded by temples.  It’s a popular tourist destination because not only are the temples beautiful, the lake itself has many lotus plants which are both fragrant and beautiful.  We knew we couldn’t see every temple or pagoda so we focused on those that were nearby our arrival spot.

First, we saw the Dragon and Tiger Pavilions which were undergoing renovation.  They are seven story towers which are connected to the land via a pedway.  We next went to see the beautiful Ciji Temple.  The main deity of the temple is Baosheng Dadi, the god of medicine.  Next we visited Qiming Court.  It has four floors and includes a library.  There are many beautiful deities in the various halls but we are not certain of their religious significance.  We continued to walk along the shore of Lotus Pond and take in the beauty of the area.  Despite the rainy day, there were many tourists doing the same.  In late afternoon, the rain really began to fall so it was time to catch the bus back to the metro and return to our hotel.

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Tiger & Dragon Pavilions

The very beautiful Ciji Temple
The interior of Ciji Temple
A close-up of the lovely roof decorations
Qinming Court (with a small scooter
parked outside)
An altar area in Qinming Court
A giant Deity and two pavilions
A foreground of blooming Lotus,
the namesake of Lotus Pond

[ T O P ]

Cijin Island:  Cijin Island is a quick ferry ride from Kaohsiung.  Cijin has one main boulevard that has hundreds of food stands all serving fresh seafood.  Some are actually restaurants when you can have a seat but most places sell items for take-away on wooden sticks.  This main boulevard terminates at Cijin Beach, a popular place to swim and cool off during the heat.  Before we ventured toward the beach, we first decided to stop at TianHou Temple.   

TianHou Temple is located just beyond the Cijin Ferry building.  It is the oldest temple in Kaohsiung as it was established in 1673.  The temple is dedicated to Matsu (or Mazu), the goddess of the sea who protects fisherman and sailors.  The temple was very ornate and very beautiful.

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The ferry terminal from which ferrys
go to/from Cijin Island

One of the ferries returning to the mainland
as we ride toward Cijin Island
The Chi Hou Lighthouse
atop Cijin Island (it has a view
to the open sea)
Tian Hou Temple
A highly decorated area including
an urn for burning incense
Lindy by the Bell Tower

[ T O P ]

         Afterwards, we walked down “food boulevard” to access the Cijin Beach.  Since it was a hot day and a weekend, there were lots of people enjoying the setting.  We took some time out to relax and then wandered back along the same route.  Here you could purchase any type of fresh seafood you wanted and have it cooked to order.  Our favorite…. Squid on a stick!

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Lindy by a giant crab on the beach
at the end of "Food Street"

A busy food stall
This vendor is selling every kind of
seafood that is imaginable
A look down "Food Street"
Our favorite - "Squid on a Stick"

[ T O P ]

         Late in the afternoon we caught the ferry back to the mainland and returned to our hotel.  It was a great outing and a fun way to see how locals enjoy both the great food and island scenery so close to their major city.

[Return to China 2013 if you’re interested in reading more of
our adventures as we returned there to visit Shanghai]