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25 October: After leaving China and arriving at Narita Airport (and clearing immigration and customs), we caught the Keisei Narita train to the town of Narita and quickly found our home for the next two nights, the Comfort Inn Narita. Since we had already eaten dinner, we relaxed and called it an evening.
Monday, 26 October: We awoke to a light rain (actually it had been raining since about 12:00AM). After a delicious breakfast, we decided to tour Narita on foot despite the rain. We left the hotel and quickly were walking along Omote-Sando, a lane featuring quite a few stores and restaurants, some more than 100 years old. We continued walking along the avenue until we reached the Naritasan Sacred Walking Enclosure. We went up a short flight of stairs and came to Niomon Gate, a national property treasure, from which hangs a huge red lantern. After passing through the gate, we came to a long flight of stairs and a set of stairs to the right. We choose to go to the right and we walked to a beautiful three-storied pagoda that was brightly painted. It too is considered a national treasure. We then went across a large square to get views of the main hall, Dai-ho-do, dedicated to the Shinto religion. It too was beautiful with incredible doors and a huge incense burner.
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Our first views of Omote-Sando |
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Another view of Omote-Sando which shows that the road is very steep |
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The beautiful Naritasan Sacred Walking Enclosure |
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The Niomon Gate |
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A closer view of the red lantern in Niomon Gate |
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The beautiful three-stored pagoda |
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A closer view of the beautifully painted pagoda |
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The main hall associated with the pagoda is dedicated to the Shinto religion |
While we were enjoying these incredible sites, the rain continued and proceeded to get much worse. So, we decided to end our explorations and head back to the hotel. The rain continued to pour and the streets and sidewalks were flowing with water. Needless to say, we were both soaked. However, instead of returning directly to the hotel, we continued a few blocks further (hey, we’re already wet so….) to a huge supermarket. There we dried out a bit while we shopped for the evening meal.
After shopping, we returned to the hotel and were even more soaked since the wind had begun to roar. It actually blew the umbrella inside out! We got up to our room, put our shopping in the mini-frig and then decided to go ahead and wash our clothes since they were wet. While we washed our clothes in the hotel guest laundry, we enjoyed excellent fresh hot espresso, a beverage service provided by the hotel from 3:00PM-12:00AM.
Upon returning to the room, we enjoyed happy hour and then Ed made a delicious dinner using the ingredients from the market - fresh noodles, mushrooms and chives. Ed made them into a pasta using sesame oil, soy sauce and hot red pepper. It was really a first class meal!
NOTE: We later learned that the stormy weather was caused by a typhoon just off the west coast of Tokyo. Thankfully, it stayed out at sea and didn’t interrupt our travels like the one we encountered last year while touring South Korea.
27 October: Yeah; we awoke to a cool, sunny day! Again, we enjoyed a great breakfast before our first full day of travel within Japan.
We returned to Narita Airport via the Keisei Narita line. Then, at a Japan Rail Office we activated our 21-day Japan Rail Pass which we bought before leaving the US. Our next step was to take the Narita Airport Express Train into Tokyo Station. There we caught a Shinkansen express train (a high speed bullet train) to Himeji, our home for the next three nights. We left Narita Airport at 9:18AM and arrived in Himeji at 2:43PM. It’s simply amazing that the Japanese rail system is so easy to use, very convenient and always reliable! The Japan Rail Pass is a true value! We paid about $630 per person for our travels in Japan. If we would have priced the tickets individually, the price would have been $1,075 per person. Quite the savings!!
After arriving at the Himeji station, we walked about 10 minutes to reach the Comfort Inn Himeji. We settled in and then walked to a local supermarket to pick up some wine (they now make some acceptable wines in Japan and imports are readily available as well) and pre-made items for dinner. Japanese supermarkets and department stores sell a huge variety of prepared foods. Everything from “soups to nuts” including steamed & fried dumplings, smoked and barbequed fish & meats, all kinds of rice and noodle dishes and on and on.
28 October: Today we went to Himeji Castle, the key attraction which led us to stay in Himeji. In a word, “Magnificent!” The center of town is very compact so we were able to walk to Otemae-dori Avenue, a main boulevard, which leads directly to the castle. It’s in sight the entire walk and only gets better as you get closer.
Himeji Castle was completed in 1618 (it originally was a fort in the 14th century and its conversion into a castle began in 1581). It is accessed via a beautiful bridge which crosses the castle’s moat. Himeji Castle is nothing like the dark, dreary castles we Westerners associate with the Middle Ages. In fact, it’s referred to as the “White Heron Castle” here in Japan because its white walls which stretch out on either side of the five-storied donjon (tower) give the illusion of a white heron in flight.
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The bridge used to cross the |
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The bridge with Himeji Castle in the background |
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Trees reflected in the Castle moat |
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Another view of this magnificent structure |
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And yet again... another view from a bit closer |
Once inside the incredible compound, we were able to ascend the five-storied donjon. We first had to remove our shoes; wearing shoes in the interior of a building (whether a castle or an individual home) is not proper etiquette. Then we climbed original staircases and walked on original wooden floors to move from one level to another. It was open, bright and very comfortable (i.e, the opposite of that “dark and dreary”). We were amazed that the public was even allowed in this grand wooden structure! Each level featured paintings, calligraphy, diaries of the lords of the castle and weapons and armor worn by the samurai who defended the castle.
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Lindy on the ascent to the Castle |
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Ed at one of the entry gates |
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Lindy inside the Castle with its wooden ceilings, walls and floors |
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One of the Castle's many hallways |
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A view from the top of the Castle looking into its grounds |
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A reflecting pool within the Castle |
The castle itself had incredible defenses. It had interior wells for drinking water and numerous food storage buildings. It also had extensive gates, three moats and hidden passages. The maze of pathways leading to the main donjon also led to numerous dead-ends to impede invaders should anyone get that far (and that’s pretty doubtful). So, in addition to being absolutely gorgeous, Himeji Castle was a great place to call home in times of war. Now, it is a wonderful UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Early afternoon we left Himeji Castle and walked to the Koko-en Garden, a short distance away at the base of the castle where Samurai mansions once stood. The area is now divided into nine small gardens, each one featuring different plants and fauna surrounded by traditional walls. The settings were each beautiful. Our favorite garden featured Japanese black pine trees set on a small hill with a stream flowing into a pond featuring huge coi (some we estimated to be 30” in length) which we got to see being fed. After relaxing in this beautiful oasis we once again returned to the hotel, occasionally glancing back at the magical Himeji Castle, a truly spectacular site!
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Entering into Koko-en Garden |
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One of the beautiful ponds in the complex |
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A Heron and its reflection |
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Trees growing within the garden waters |
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Beautiful Fall colors reflected in this pool |
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Look at all the coi in this pond! |
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A thatched-roof cottage at the coi pond |
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Ed enjoying these huge coi |
29 October: This morning we returned to Himeji Station to catch a bus and then a ropeway (cable car) to visit Mt. Shosha Engyoji Temple Complex. Our bus took about 30 minutes (driving through tiny streets in Himeji) to reach the ropeway station. There we caught a cable car which took us 750 meters up Mt. Shosha in about 4 minutes. After getting out at the ropeway station, we began our explorations of the temple complex which is set over a spacious, densely forested area on the mountaintop.
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We're ready to board the cable car |
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Looking down on another cable car |
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One of the huge towers which support the cable cars |
We began at the Bell of Benevolence a short distance away. It consists of a bronze bell which you ring using an external wooden log about six to eight inches in diameter and about three feet long which hangs from ceiling. You pull the log toward you and then push it against the bell as hard as you can. When hit properly, the bell emits a deep ringing that lasts quite a while. Of course, we had to hear it ourselves so Ed did the duty.
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Ed at the Bell of Benevolence |
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An action photo.... Ed ringing the Bell |
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A beautiful statute near the Bell |
Next we walked uphill (and we mean uphill) to arrive at the Niomon Gate, the entry into the sacred temple complex. Once inside there were numerous small temples (often referred to as sub-temples) which although part of the complex were currently not in use. The largest temple is the beautiful Maniden Temple which was originally built in 970. This temple is a Buddhist Temple and is currently in use. Again, after removing our shoes we were able to go inside and see the beautiful architecture as well as the decorative chandelier and gong.
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Nio-Mon Gate (a lovely wooden structure) |
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Yuya Bridge, a stone bridge built in 1620 |
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Maniden Temple |
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The beautifully carved entry to Maniden Temple |
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A view of this unique wooden structure |
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A decorative chandelier and lantern hanging in the Temple |
After leaving Maniden Temple, we next went to an area with three massive wooden temple halls – Daikodo (main lecture hall); Jikido (lodging and dining hall); and Jogyodo (exercise hall) – used by the Buddhist monks in times past. Now the Jikido Hall is used as a museum to house silk paintings and several Buddha statutes. While we were visiting Jikido Hall, the resident monk told us that these were the buildings which were used as the film location for “The Last Samurai,” starring Tom Cruise. He also had photographs showing the “snow” on the temples which he told us was actually cornstarch and the cherry blossoms blooming which were plastic. Hey, Hollywood can make anything happen! We also visited the nearby tombs of the Honda family (no, not recent relatives of the Honda automakers as far as we know).
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Daikodo Temple |
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The ornate Tomb of the Hondas who ruled Himeji Castle during the 17th Century |
After leaving this area we went to see the Shoro (Bell Tower). We also went a sub-temple called Kongodo where Ed took some beautiful shots highlighting both it and the Maple tree leaves turning a beautiful red. Nearby was the tomb of the Matsudaira family.
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This ancient Bell Tower |
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Looking into Kongodo |
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The interior of the temple with its beautiful Maple trees |
We then worked our way back to the Maniden Temple and eventually back to Nioman Gate. It was a beautiful day and especially peaceful and tranquil in the Engyoji Temple Complex. We certainly enjoyed all of our time there! We came to the conclusion that Himeji should be on the list of places every tourist must visit!! However while we ran across quite a few Japanese tourists and many schoolchildren, we saw almost no Westerners. We assumed it’s too far off the beaten path.
We returned back to Himeji via the ropeway and city bus. We then went to the train station to obtain reserved seats for the Shinkansen train to Hakata, our destination tomorrow. Unfortunately, we were able to get only aisle seats across from one another rather than sitting together. So, we learned a quick lesson about making advance seating reservations. Then, after a short walk back to the hotel, we relaxed for the evening in anticipation of our travels tomorrow.
30 October: We enjoyed a relaxing and delicious breakfast (the Comfort Hotel chain offers a nice buffet featuring boiled eggs, cereals, breads, soups and seaweed-wrapped rice with fish or vegetables inside (the latter may not sound good the way it’s described but it’s actually quite delicious). Then we walked to the Himeji Rail Station to catch our 10:52AM train to Hakata. For both of us, this was our first visit to Japan’s southern island of Kyushu. We arrived at ~2:00PM and stopped briefly at the JR office to make ongoing seat reservations. Then we walked out of the station and across the street to the Comfort Inn Hakata. Even though we were early our room was ready so we unpacked.
We first went exploring the underground shopping mall beneath the railway station. It had small stores selling just about everything as well as one major department store and a specialty food store. Afterwards, we went for a 15-minute walk along Taihaku Dori (street) to reach a Sunny Supermarket. En route we passed two temples we planned to visit the following day. At the supermarket, we bought two dinners – dim sum for one night; avocados for guacamole for another night (sometimes you crave the stuff from home!). We returned back to the hotel and watched Game 2 of the World Series (while here in Japan we have yet to have any hotel offer English-language television so at least we can enjoy the games in Japanese!).
31 October: Happy Halloween! We had a full day of touring so we got a fairly early start after breakfast. To begin, we went to the Nishitetsu Bus Station (next to the Hataka Train Station) and purchased a one-day pass to travel around the city. This cost only 1000 yen for two people ($11.15 USD). Initially we caught a bus to the Bayside Place Hakata Futoh (“futoh” is wharf). There, we took an elevator to the top of the Hakata Port Tower for a great view of the city and the bay (no fee). Hakata is a major port of entry into Japan. Afterwards, we walked over to the shopping complex where we enjoyed an 8 meter (25 ft.) tall cylindrical aquarium featuring about 500 fish and several sea turtles from the local Genkai-Nada Sea. There were three viewing levels so you could see all of the fish (also no fee).
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The Hakata Port Tower |
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A view from the tower |
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Another view from the tower |
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How about this shark? |
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A beautiful sea turtle |
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Happy Halloween (now a universal celebration for kids) |
Next, we took a bus back into the heart of the city to the Tenjin Bus Station. There were many major department stores in area and we stopped at a street fare featuring different foods. We then caught a bus to the Canal City, a large shopping complex built over an artificial canal (there are several natural canals which cross town). While the complex was huge and very attractive and unusual, it didn’t remind us of the “red cliffs of Arizona” as was stated in brochures. Oh well! We relaxed for a bit and enjoyed the Halloween decorations.
After exploring these modern sites, it was time to get back to visiting some temples. Unfortunately, most of the temples in Hakata are not isolated inside parks as are most of the temples in Kyoto. Instead, modern buildings have been built right up to the temple walls. We walked first to Mangyoji Temple. It was a small temple and had no worshippers present. We then crossed over a street and went around a block to find the Kushida-jinja Shrine. The Shrine was built in 757 and we believe it is a Shinto shrine. We had the pleasure of watching a young girl go through a ritual while dressed in a gorgeous kimono. Afterwards we obtained permission from her parents and grandparents to take a picture of her. They were flattered and the little girl loved to pose. She was so beautiful! We also were able to view an extravagantly decorated float that is used in the Yamakasa Festival each July. It’s not a float in the sense we think of at home; it is carried on the shoulders of men. Pretty amazing!
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Mangyoi Temple which is |
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The entry to Kushida-jinja Shrine |
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Kushida-jinja Shrine |
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The main altar at the Shrine (note the young girl in the pink kimono) |
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This is the beautiful girl who we watched participate in some type of ritual |
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The beautiful grounds of the Shrine |
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The complex and beautiful "float" carried on men's shoulders during the Yamakasa Festival |
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The tori outside Kushida-jinja Shrine |
After leaving Kushida we once again took a bus to access Shofuku Temple. Shofuku-Ji is the oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Japan. It was founded in 1195 by a priest who studied Buddhism in China and subsequently returned to Japan. This temple was a bit more isolated than most of the others and the buildings and grounds were beautiful. The temple was undergoing renovations so the stream which normally flows through the area had been diverted. However, we were able to capture some of its beauty. Then, we were a bit awed by the two golden Buddha statutes in one of the other temple buildings.
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Shofuku-Ji |
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A closer view of the Temple which highlights its wooden doors |
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A beautiful Buddha within the Temple |
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A Blue Buddha within the Temple (note the blue hair color) |
Next we walked to Tocho Temple (Tocho-ji). It was founded in 806 and is the oldest Shingon Temple in Japan. A highlight there (apart from the beautiful altar area) was viewing the largest “sitting Buddha” statue made of wood in Japan. It was about 35 feet tall and we were told it weights 30 tons. Talk about impressive!! (Note: Since all of the temples were active religious temples there were no fees charged to enter the grounds or any of the buildings. Donation boxes were available for both the devout and the tourists. Sort of like going into a cathedral in Europe.)
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Tocho Temple |
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A close-up of the Temple towers |
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The beautiful altar |
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The immense and beautiful largest wooden Sitting Buddha in Japan |
We called it a day afterwards and rode a bus back to the main station. While Hakata is a very large town, it has its own unique charms and some very ancient sites to visit and enjoy.
1 November: We awoke to a heavy rainfall. Thankfully, we were in no hurry so we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and hoped for the storm to pass before our 10:00AM checkout time. When it didn’t we used the extensive underground mall and subway station connected to our hotel to make it to the train station without a drop falling on us. We caught our train to Nagasaki and watched the rain continue to fall almost the entire route. Thankfully, when we arrived at the Nagasaki Station, the rain had just ended. So, we walked to our Comfort Inn Hotel about 10 minutes from the station. It was before check-in time so we left our bags and went to a nearby mall. There, Lindy found some great boots (with Ed’s help) which were on sale – really stylish. Japanese girls just love boots especially medium to high heeled boots so the so the stores are loaded with them. Afterward we went down to the grocery store on the lower level of the mall. A woman was doing a demonstration of making napa cabbage soup so guess what we ended up having for dinner? No, we didn’t eat all of hers; Ed made our own batch that evening, even modifying the original recipe with a few extra ingredients and spices, and it was delicious. It’s amazing what you can do with a water boiler!
2 November: Since this was our “touring day” in Nagasaki, we got a fairly early start. We returned to the train station where we purchased a day-pass for use on the city’s electric trams. Again, a great value and a wonderful way to see the sites since they are spread long distances throughout the city. We began by visiting the location of the epicenter above which the atomic bomb was dropped over Nagasaki. Now, there is a monument on the location and it’s also possible to go below ground to the ground level in 1945 to view the remnants of part of the destruction. The area still remains slightly radioactive to this day.
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A peak at the Nagasaki Tram |
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A memorial at the epicenter of the dropping of the atomic bomb |
We then returned to the tram and rode into the heart of the city to visit the beautiful stone bridges which cross the Nakajima River. In particular, we wanted to see the Megane Bridge or “Spectacles” Bridge. The bridge was built in 1634 and is the oldest surviving stone arch bridge in Japan. It gets its name from the fact that the two arches and their reflection in the river look like a pair of eyeglasses. A few other ancient bridges still survive as we found out when we walked along the river.
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A view of Spectacles Bridge |
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A closer view of this beautiful, ancient bridge |
After enjoying this area, we once again boarded the tram. Our quest was to find the Confucian Shrine (which we did) which also is known as Koshi-Byo. It is the only Confucian shrine in the world built outside China by Chinese hands and even today, the land upon which it stands is Chinese territory and the land rights are controlled by the Chinese Embassy in Tokyo. Amazing! Koshi-Byo was built in 1893 as a place of worship and as a primary school for the Chinese community in Nagasaki. The school was subsequently relocated but the original sanctuary building and surrounding red brick walls remain intact and in use. There are numerous statutes adorning the grounds as well as a beautiful bridge over a small pond. Behind the sanctuary is a museum which displays ancient artifacts on loan from the Chinese National Museum of History in Beijing. All and all, it was very impressive and revealed the religious ties between these two nations.
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The entry into Koshi-Byo |
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A beautiful bridge within the Koshi-Byo complex |
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A row of statutes of Confucius |
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A brightly colored corridor (Note: There are protected inscriptions on the left wall) |
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A beautiful dragon perched on the rooftop to protect the Koshi-Byo |
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The altar within Koshi-Byo |
We once again boarded the tram to return back to the hotel after making a transfer en route. The day had started sunny and beautiful but as it progressed the clouds returned and it got quite chilly. So, it was time to reflect on the day with an espresso in the hotel lobby.
3 November: This was one of our longer travel days as we headed to Kagoshima, another seaport on the island of Kyushu. It was a national holiday (Japan Culture Day) so the streets and trains were not crowded. We left Nagasaki at 10:53AM and arrived at Kagoshima at 3:02PM. En route, we had one transfer that initially had us a bit uneasy as it was supposed to be 3 minutes and our train was 2 minutes late. Not to worry, however, as everything on the trains is coordinated and all we had to do was cross a platform with several conductors aiding us.
As soon as we walked off the train in Kagoshima, we were greeted by Sakurajima, a constantly active volcano smoldering in the bay. It used to be an island but is now connected to the peninsula on the opposite side of the bay after a major eruption and lava flows. After checking into the nearby B&B Park Hotel (very nice) we returned to a 5-story mall connected to the train station. From the top floor (the food floor with numerous restaurants), we were able to get some great views of Sakurajima spewing steam and ash. Afterwards we did some shopping, had dinner and then stayed in for the night.
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The skyline of Kagoshima with |
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A closer view of this very active volcano |
4 November: We had an early morning as we opted to take a sightseeing tour of Sakurajima. We began by enjoying a traditional Japanese breakfast – rice with condiments, miso soup and green tea – delicious. Coffee was also offered and most Japanese guests had it after breakfast instead of with breakfast.
We then walked to the bus station in front of the train station to catch the tourist bus to Sakurajima. There were a total of 10 of us for the trip. Our guide spoke only a little English but did her best to explain the sites we saw in the city as we drove to the ferry station. Once there, the bus drove onboard and we were able to go upstairs and again enjoy the views of Sakurajima. We all re-boarded the bus and left the ferry to begin our adventure. Our guide stopped to pick up some English guide books for our tour around the base of the volcano. Most items were self-evident. The trip around the volcano took about two hours. We stopped for photographs and they were spectacular. The volcano was very active this particular day with both steam and ash and audible explosions. As an aside, everything on Sakurajima is covered in volcanic dust (not a neat place to live but a nice place to visit). Our bus re-boarded the ferry and returned us back to the bus station in the afternoon. It was a great adventure that we truly enjoyed.
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The ferry to Sakurajima approaches |
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A closer view before we board the ferry |
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Our views as we approach Sakurajima via the ferry |
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We arrived at the park which surrounds the volcano |
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A view of the landscape around Sakurajima |
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A beautiful ridge along one side of Sakurajima |
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A close view of the steam & gases which escape from Sakurajima |
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A secondary, large eruption which we witness before returning to Kagoshima, Wow! |
5 November: We were once again on the rails today as we left Kagoshima and headed for Okayama. We arrived in Okayama at 2:30PM and walked to the hotel in about 15-20 minutes. It was very easy to find since we walked beside one of the city’s tram lines. We checked into the Comfort Inn and then did some shopping. We were both craving some crusty Italian bread and we found it in a local department store. Yum!! We also bought some items at a local grocery to make a salad. Afterwards we settled in for the night to watch the Yankees win the World Series, thanks to Hidekei Matsui san!! Naturally with Matsui playing and the Japanese love of baseball (the #1 sport in Japan), the World Series was widely followed and the news that Matsui was voted the Most Valuable Player dominated the next day’s news.
6 November: This was our day to explore the city of Okayama. We began by walking to Okayama Castle which is also known as the “U-Jo” or “Crow Castle” because of its black exterior. It was a beautiful sunny day and the castle was magnificent! Its black walls were topped with golden fish that sparkled in the sun. The original castle was begun in 1589 and completed in 1597. It was occupied by fifteen feudal landlords for 297 years (1573-1869) after which it became state property. Okayama Castle was destroyed during WWII but has been reconstructed and is considered a perfect replica of the original.
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Lindy on the stairs inside the |
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The beautiful Okayama Castle |
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Another view of the Castle |
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One of the beautiful gold dragons decorating the castle |
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A view of the back of Okayama Castle |
We enjoyed the exterior of the castle from various views before we went inside the five-story donjon. Most floors provided explanations (some in English; others not) of its constructions, usages and mementos from various eras. We got a real treat as we arrived on the second floor. There we ran into a Japanese couple for whom we had taken a photograph of them posing in front of the castle. The woman grabbed Lindy to make sure she was aware that the castle staff can dress a limited number of visitors (free of charge) in traditional Imperial Outfits (both women and men) and she had talked to the staff about us and was very insistent that we do it. So, guess what we did…. We became Edo san and Melinda san. It takes quite awhile to put on all of the garb but it was really lots of fun. We then posed in a traditional Japanese room with tatami mats and all for photographs. We were told how to sit, stand and pose in an Imperial manner. We had a blast and the couple took looks of pictures for us using our camera. Many other tourists took photos of us as well. We were quite the spectacle! As we were leaving, Ed showed one of the photo’s to the ticket vendor who, in turn, showed it to an older co-worker. He then presented Ed with a commemorative flag from the Castle. Pretty neat!!
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Lindy in a hand-carried coach |
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Us in traditional garb (familiar from our 2009 Christmas card?!) |
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Our wonderful companions who made sure we were photographs in traditional garb |
After spending time at the castle, we took a footbridge across the Asahi River to visit one of the most beautiful gardens in Japan – Korakuen (as an aside, the other gardens are the Keurokuen in Kanazawa and the Kairakuenin in Mito). The garden was begun in 1687 and completed in 1700 and, as such, is considered part of Japan’s Edo Period. The garden was designed in the Kaiyu (“scenic promenade”) style so that every turn presents a unique view of small streams, ponds, vast lawns, hills and a variety of trees. It was truly beautiful! We spent several hours wandering the grounds and the relaxing at various spots. At one point, a couple dressed in traditional Japanese marriage kimonos stopped for wedding photographs on a nearby bridge. They looked stunning!
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A reflection in one of the |
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An ancient arched bridge |
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A view looking down onto several of the ponds within Korakuen Garden |
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Ed on an amazing "maze" bridge |
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A large group of Coi (also known as huge Gold Fish) |
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A beautiful waterfall that was hidden in the Gardens |
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A tori and altar within Korakuen |
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Our photograph of the bridge and groom in traditional garb |
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Us beside a display of mums inside the Garden |
We spent the afternoon shopping at the area near the train station. So, all and all, it was a long day of walking. We returned to the hotel just before dark and actually saw a replay of Monday Night Football on Friday night. It’s interesting to note the station doesn’t play the whole game – just the highlights by quarter – so we saw the New Orleans Saints win their 7th game in about 30 minutes.
7 November: Today we decided to take advantage of our Rail Pass and travel to the nearby town of Kurashiki. It was our first ride on a “local train” and everything went just as smoothly as on the other lines. Since there are no reserved seats, we didn’t need any tickets; we just showed our Rail Pass at the ticket gate and went onto the platform.
The historic district of Kurashiki is considered to be one of the most picturesque areas in Japan and we concur. During the Edo Period, it was a center for storing rice harvested in the surrounding area. The storehouses or “kura” remain intact as do some of the homes of the wealthy merchants and are located along a lovely tree-lined canal. The canal itself was used to transport the rice to/from the storehouses so it was both functional and decorative. Several ancient stone bridges crossed the canal and added to quaint atmosphere. With the Fall leaves just beginning to turn, it was a beautiful site!
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The lovely canal in Kurashiki |
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The incredible Fall foliage is stunning! |
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Ornate buildings along the canal |
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A Japanese "gondolier" |
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A beautiful bridge built on stones crosses the canal |
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Shopping along a typical street |
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More beautiful Fall colors (Hey, that's one reason wanted to visit this time of year!) |
Afterwards we wandered through several shopping arcades. We also found a large supermarket where we were able to purchase some Spanish wine – a real treat since wine and liquor are somewhat expensive here in Japan. Beer and/or sake are the drinks of choice here with beer being very affordable and also very good.
We took an afternoon train back to Okayama and then walked the kilometer (again) from the station to our hotel. The balance of the day was spent catching up on this diary, sending emails, packing and reviewing our plans for visiting Osaka, our next destination.
8 November: After once again enjoying the Comfort Inn’s breakfast buffet, we gathered up our things and took a slow walk back to the train station. We boarded our train for Osaka at 10:42AM and arrived there at 11:52AM (very quick). Our arrival station, Shin-Osaka serves the Shinkansen lines and was not located near our hotel. Before we took the subway to arrive at Shinsaibashi (the station near the Comfort Hotel), we stopped by a “Welcome to Osaka” information booth. There we spoke with a very helpful woman who explained the subway system to us and then told us that Osaka offers foreign visitors a very nice visitor’s pass. You can enjoy unlimited rides on the subway and buses and get free admission into 25 attractions for either one day (2000Yen pp) or two day (2700Yen pp). We opted for the two-day pass since it was quite the bargain especially considering the fact that the subway fares are based on distance and vary from 230 yen to 320 yen pp one way – ~$2.58 to $3.60).
We left the information booth and found our subway line. It was a quick ride to the Shinsaibashi station which is located in the Minami area of the city. This part of town is known for its extensive shopping, restaurants, bars and clubs all with lots of glittering lights. It’s also known as a “happening spot” so the crowds are here irrespective of the day of the week beginning at about 11:00AM until the wee morning hours. It reminded us a bit of Greenwich Village or Old Pasadena or Kings Cross in Sydney. We arrived at the Comfort Inn by 1:30PM and were able to leave our bags. We then returned back to the pedway and shopping located at Shinsaibashi station to shop and people-watch as the masses were out and about. The fashions here in Japan are somewhat amazing (i.e., short-shorts or mini-skirts in winter over patterned black stockings or black leotards with long high-heeled boots; then jackets, scarves and hats (all kinds of crazy hats), but the women and girls pull it off brilliantly).
9 November: We began our touring by taking the subway to the icon of Osaka – its Castle. It was a beautiful morning and we were able to get some terrific photographs and learn about the castle’s history. Inside the main building (donjon) which had been rebuilt over the centuries (amazingly it survived the citywide air raids during World War II), we took an elevator to the fifth floor and enjoyed views of the surrounding gardens and outbuildings. The castle has two moats which is rather unique and made for great defenses. As we descended each floor of the castle, various presentations were made some of which used great video technology. So, even without English information in all areas, we learned a great deal. It was very interesting in that we didn’t actually enjoy the interior of an old castle per but instead were provided with Osaka’s history in this unique setting.
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The view as you approach Osaka Castle |
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A beautiful "Mum Fan" outside the Castle |
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A view of one of the Castle roof decorations with Fall foliage and the moat in the background |
Given that we had our Osaka Visitors Pass, we next did some atypical touring for us in the afternoon. Again, since it was a beautiful day, we took the subway across town to take a boat ride through the Osaka bay area on a three-masted schooner, the Santa Maria. (We were a bit confused by using a Spanish galleon in Japan, but hey, it worked and our Japanese companions took more pictures of the boat than any scenery). The ride itself lasted about 45 minutes and we saw the huge shipping trade in the port area. Also, some of the bridges were amazing in their size and span.
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The "Santa Maria" which us |
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A view of the city's huge port from the Santa Maria |
We next hopped on the subway and rode it to the World Trade Center Tower to visit its observation deck. We first took an elevator to the 51st floor. We then took two escalators to reach the 55th floor observation deck. The second escalator was so long it was amazing. It also had a cloud scene painted at the top so it gave the illusion you were going straight up. On the observation deck we were able to see in all directions. Despite some haze and pollution, we actually got views of the mountains beyond Osaka. While the WTC Tower isn’t the tallest observation tower in the world, its position on the bay allows for great views of the city on one side and the other shows the major shipping channels in the sea. We also saw a model of the building along with an explanation and demonstration of how it was designed not only to withstand earthquakes but actually dampen some of the swaying! Ingenious!!
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Osaka's World Trade Center |
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A few of the Bay, including an amusement park and cruise ship in port |
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A view of the industrial area with incredible numbers of shipping containers |
We left the WTC Tower via subway and returned to our station just before rush hour. Despite it being only 4:30PM, the streets and shopping areas were still jammed. We did some shopping ourselves and finally got back to the hotel for the evening at 5:30PM after a full and fun day.
10 November: We got another early start this morning and decided to begin with some traditional touring. We used the subway to reach the Shitenno Temple area. Shitenno-Ji was founded in 593 and is known to be the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan. The temple complex, which is surrounded by a stone fence, is very large and has many halls and shrines. The most impressive building is a five-storied Pagoda within a second enclosed compound. It was interesting that the temple area was very quiet and not at all crowded. We had thought that being the first Buddhist temple, many pilgrims might be present. It was not the case and we only came across two priests reading prayers. So, it was a very contemplative temple experience.
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The entry into the Shitenno-Ji complex |
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A beautiful and very decorative building in Shitenno-Ji |
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The main Temple Gate |
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The amazing five-storied Pagoda |
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A hallway within the temple complex decorated with hanging bells |
After leaving the temple, we decided to return to the bay area to visit the Osaka Maritime Museum. It was an interesting and fun experience. To access the museum, you use an underwater tunnel with several glass viewing areas (yes, we saw fish) to reach the museum dome which houses its exhibits. The key exhibit is an actual size copy of a 30 meter long (nearly 100 ft.) Hiskigaki Kaisen boat, a traditional Japanese sailing ship from the Edo Period (early 1600’s to mid-1800’s). The ship took over a year to build. There were no existing Hiskigaki Kaisen so a great deal of research was undertaken and the ship was built using identical materials from the Edo area and based on examination of the descriptions and specifications of such crafts. In 1999, the ship was successfully sailed within the Osaka Bay.
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The Osaka Maritime Museum |
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Looking into the hull of the replica of Hiskigaki Kaisen |
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This view shows the ship's two distinct types of sails |
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The woodworking on the sides of Hiskigaki Kaisen is truly impressive |
We were able to walk through the boat itself with a guide who explained various areas (i.e., cooking area, sleeping area). The ship was both beautiful and incredibly sturdy. It had a crew of 10-12 sailors and it was used primarily to transport goods from Osaka to Edo (Tokyo). The Museum Dome itself is four stories high and was built around the ship which consumes the entire center and does reach the dome’s top. On the outer spaces of each floor, we enjoyed a series of exhibits. Some dealt with steering ships using the stars; others explained how sails propel ships in the water.
Although we had lots more free admissions thanks to our Osaka Pass (we used only five and we could have stayed out till midnight each day and kept riding the extensive subway network), we had already enjoyed a full day and decided to take the subway back to Shinsaibashi. From there, it was a quick walk back to the hotel.
11 November: Well, the rain began near midnight and didn’t stop; it just went from pouring to pouring harder. We had planned to visit some small Buddhist temples in the Minami area but the weather changed our minds. We spent most of our time in the underground malls and covered pedway in the Shinsaibashi area relaxing and shopping. That being said, however we did get drenched in the afternoon and that ended our day. So, we came back to the hotel and enjoyed espresso in the hotel lobby. We spent the balance of the day catching up on paperwork, this diary, etc. and packing for our departure tomorrow.
12 November: Thankfully, the rain finally quit before 9:00AM and we were able to walk to the subway station without fear of being drenched again. We caught the Red Line to Shin-Osaka station. From there, we took a 10:43AM train to Kanazawa, on Japan’s western coast, arriving at1:33PM. Before going to the Crowne Plaza (immediately outside the station), we first stopped at the Kanazawa Visitors Center. We were helped by a great volunteer who told us about sightseeing via the Kanazawa Loop Bus and, in particular, certain sites which we should definitely see. After getting this information, we checked into the hotel and began planning tomorrow’s tour.
13 November (Happy 13th!): The Crowne Plaza has a delicious, decadent breakfast buffet which we enjoyed from 8:00AM-9:00AM. It had both Western foods (eggs, meats, etc.); it also featured Japanese soups and, of course, Ed’s favorite – lots of fish! Afterwards, we walked to the bus station in front of the train station and purchased our Kanazawa Bus Pass. Since the day was cloudy (and in Kanazawa the saying goes, “You can forget your lunch box, but never forget your umbrella!”), we first decided to visit the Kenrokeun Garden, one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens (the others being: Korakuen in Okayama (which we loved!) and Kairakuen in Mito).
The word “Kenrokeun” means: “Garden of the Six Sublimities” referring to spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views which in theory are the six essential attributes to make a perfect garden. As far as we’re concerned, Kenrokeun had everything! It was absolutely stunning despite rain. The colors were incredible and the layout was perfect – small hills with hidden waterfalls; tiny pagodas set among the trees; and beautiful ponds with small stone lanterns set on islands and near the shores. We think that perhaps Kenrokeun might be the Number 1 garden here in Japan.
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The beautiful Kenrokeun Gardens |
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Our picture in this beautiful setting |
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Traditional workers maintaining the gardens |
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The amazing Fall colors and their reflection in the water |
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A beautiful building with Kenrokeun Gardens |
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A few of one of the many stone pagodas found throughout Kenrokeun |
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The oldest fountain in Japan (NOTE: The stone pagoda in the background) |
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How could we not have our picture taken with the oldest fountain? |
After spending the morning in Kenrokeun (occasionally ducking under a canopy to stay a bit dry), we walked over to the original gate of Kanazawa Castle. During World War II, Kanazawa was Japan’s second largest city (after Kyoto) to escape air raid destruction. The castle, however, had burned down numerous times throughout its history so that original gate is the only remaining building. Work is currently underway to reconstruct other buildings on the castle grounds according to the original plans.
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The entry gate into Kanazawa Castle |
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The walls of the Castle |
After the Castle gate, we re-boarded the Loop Bus and went to the Nishi Chaya District. “Chaya” literally means teahouse and this area was one where many Geisha performances were (and still are) held. The wooden houses and tiny streets remain intact. We visited the Nishi Chaya Shiryokan (now a museum). A volunteer there took our photograph. He also had us listen to instruments being played at the next building which is a workshop for Geisha students today.
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The narrow streets of the |
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Enjoying a pause in Nishi Chaya Shiryokan |
We returned to the present with a visit to Kanazawa’s central shopping area. It was bustling despite the ongoing rain. There we once again caught the Loop Bus and made the entire loop around the area stopping back at the Kanazawa Station where we originally boarded it at 9:15AM this morning. We stayed aboard and choose to visit the Higashi Chaya District. It too was located on what was the outskirts of original Kanazawa but on the northwest side of town versus the Nishi Chaya District located on the southeast part of the town. This area was a bit larger than the Nishi area but was equally beautiful with the old wooden structures still intact and in use (mostly as stores and restaurants these days).
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The Higashi Chaya District |
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Two women in traditional costume (also note the traditional lanterns) |
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A narrow passageway in the Higashi Chaya District |
We caught the Loop Bus again and made a quick stop at M’Za department store for another fix of crunchy Italian bread. Then, our pass allowed us to use regular city buses as well as the loop bus so we caught one of those back to Kanazawa Station returning at 5:00PM after a full and fun day!
14 November: We once again enjoyed a fabulous breakfast at the Crowne Plaza. Then, we were off for our longest travel day of the entire trip to reach the Eastern coastal city of Sendai. It was pouring rain but thankfully we had a covered walkway to access the station and the trains aren’t affected like airplanes in bad weather. We left Kanazawa at 10:14AM and, after a couple of transfers, we arrived at 3:33PM. As an aside, one ride was on a double-decker train which ultimately was headed for Tokyo. It was the least enjoyable of all our train travel since accessing the train meant navigating several stairs in a round stairwell with luggage irrespective of whether you were on the upper or lower train. Also, it was a bit maniacal at boarding time with twice the number of people trying to board. Lastly, most of the time was spent in tunnels to minimize travel time (hey, why go around a mountain whey you can go through it!) so there were no views. Thankfully, most of our other train rides featured single-level trains, easy access and great views.
We stopped at the tourist information office in the train station to get information and a city map. Then we found our home for the next two nights, the Comfort Inn. We did a bit of exploring in the immediate area and called it a night.
15 November: We awoke to a beautiful morning with yesterday’s rain only a memory. After enjoying our breakfast, we headed out to enjoy Sendai. We had hoped to visit a morning market but it was closed on Sunday. Instead, we went to the AER building and visited its free observation tower on the 31st floor of the building. We got great views of both the city and its surroundings – the mountains to the West and the sea to the East. Then, we watched two different celebrations of the area’s cultural heritage which were done on a stage in the Sendai Station. The first featured a man and a woman each playing a Shamisen which is one of the most characteristic Japanese musical instruments. It only has three strings and is played with wooden taps so the sounds are very different but very pleasant. This is the instrument many of the Geisha learned (and still learn) to play.
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A view from the AER Building |
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Another view which includes the sea in the distance |
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Individuals playing the Shamisen |
After a short break, we watched a dance show featuring three different ancient traditional dances from a troupe of locals wearing traditional costumes. The first involved three man with amazing headdresses; the second was six girls using fans; and the last was a boy imitating the ritual of fishing. Wow one of our favorites. All performers were excellent as were the musicians (drums, flute & small cymbals) and vocalists accompanying them. The troupe varied in age from about 12 to over 80 years old with the old-timers passing on the heritage to the youngsters. For an encore, all the performers worked together on stage. It was really a unique experience that we both enjoyed.
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Check out the incredible headdresses |
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Young girls doing a dance involving fans |
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This snap features one of the older performers (he's next to the flute player) |
Afterwards we walked the streets and visited various department stores and shopping areas. Then, we returned to the hotel to get ready for our final day of travel tomorrow using our JAL Pass as we return to the city of Narita where our adventure began.
16 November: We had a leisurely
morning and then went to the Sendai Station for our 10:43AM train to Tokyo
Station. From there, we took a local train to reach Narita Station. From
there, we walked to the Comfort Inn to spend our final night in Japan.
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Wow, what a great experience traveling throughout Japan, especially to some remote areas as far as tourism goes. We will definitely return!